Toasted the pads and scored the rotors @ track day needed about 800-1000 ft to haul the truck down from about 115 MPH to 35 MPH and get through the chicane. Did it way too many times and dealer said $512 for the brake job with new rotors. It's just the front and I'd need to wait till Friday or Saturday anyway so is there a better option? I can do the work myself so I guess I can just go get parts and save money that way but can I upgrade just the front or do I have to do the rear at the same time? Thanks going to bed now so I can toss and turn all night.

 

i don't think you really need to upgrade for the most part, sounds like you just neglected your pads and messed up your rotors. Just replace the rotors and pads yourself. If you want maybe you can consider some slotted rotors. Check on ruslow at nloc.

www.timskelton.com also does a good job showing alternatives to the stock brake system.

 

I too, was going to add looking at Tim's site. A lot of good info
Just don't mention your mods

 

Stan's stock replacement rotors and better pads
should be the path if you are going to do more
track days. You just can't Late Corner Brake these
beasts without destroying something.

Or if you are truly addicted now, < grin > get the
Brembo setup ...

 

If you ran the stock pads consider yourself lucky.They won't take that for long before you break teh friction materila off and you are on the backing and instant metal to metal.If the rotorsw are not scored to bad[need a pic for sure] you can do a LITE cut on a brake lathe and install new pads.But keep in mind the more metal off the rotor the faster it will heat sink.stan

PS welcome to the world of 1% is very addictive but also very expensive once you get into it.I figure about for every dollar spent on drag racing add another for road.But thats another subject!

Also keep in mind the dealer is going to put on the same quality of part that you just fried!!!!

 

http://www.tceperformanceproducts.co...Lightning.mgi2


Much less expensive way to go than the Brembo's. JMHO
Pads are less than $100.00 a set also. I have this kit on my truck with no problems (except rotor wear) and no one brakes later than I do at the track! Going to try a different compound next time.


Jerry

 

Well unfortunatly Ive only got a couple hundred to spend. I can get cross drilled and slotted from Summit for $297 W/ pads but they dont have them in right now. 2 weeks for them to get the rotors + another 4 days shipping. Jegs on the other hand can't even get them. Blah! While I'm at it what would be a good upgrade for the fluid? The manual says use DOT 3 is there a better alternative? I'l order something later today after I search for better delivery times.

 

What the hell did you do to my brakes, granny

 

The TCE kit really is the best option if you want to spend a small fortune. If you've got a large one, I like the AP kit. I'd go with stan's rotors for a cost-effective middle ground. If you're really in a pinch, new rotors from Autozone or wherever are about $70 each. For pads, I'd go with the Hawk superduty if you don't mind a little dust and noise. Otherwise, the NAPA ceramic gets good reviews from the showtruck crowd. Brake fluid needs an upgrade if you're doing track days. ATE superblue is the best compromise between performance and longevity. The valvoline clear synthetic found at most auto parts stores works well on the street and lasts a long time, but will get overloaded on the track. Motul 600 works great on the track, but needs to be changed often.

Just my 2c.

 

Hey GrannyL

When you replace your brakes if you want some company and a hand -let me know. I haven't had the pleasure of working with fellow L owners and I've been thinking of upgrading my brakes as well.

kg3@duraguardproducts.com

 

Mmmmmm brakes. Slotted good, drilled bad. ATL Super-Blue is a very good brake fluid.

Be sure to check your bearings and seals after track days. Heat kills them. Use a good quality (Mobil-1) synthetic grease to repack the bearings. Track days are incredibly fun an addictive. Be ready to perform maintinence before and after each trip to the track. Invest in a panhard bar if you don't already have one.

 

Does that hold true for high-end brake systems? I know most Brembo and AP systems use slotted/drilled rotors...

At the same time, I've heard that you can't cross-drill OEM rotors or the process will compromise its structural integrity.

 

Even with the Brembo, drilled is known to crack. I have seen the end result of drilled Brembo's....not good.
Brembo has started offering dimpled because of this.....


Rocks

 

OK through further forum searching I found these. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33564
From this discussion.
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...ghlight=ruslow
All 4 corners for $300 W/shipping. I'd still need new pads but I could do all at once. They also offer dimpled instead of drilled so I'm gonna mail em now and see if its extra. Thanks for all the help so far guys I appreciate it, keep em' coming!

 

In my opinion drilled or cast holes are old school. For the street they are bling only. The big misconception is that the slots, holes, or dimples are for cooling. Fact is the are for vent gases from the friction material against the rotor surface. Big league racing has gone away from "drilled" as well. I was recently at an American Lemans race and got to be up close with several various cars. Not one drilled rotor to be seen all weekend. Everything was slotted.

As you can see from the photo I had drilled on my L. It was a mistake. Should have gone slotted. Done properly dimpling on factory rotors can help. The problem comes from not knowing how they were done. Spend a little more for a proven product and only have to do it once. See Ruslow, his products are proven beyond what most will ever see.