Phenolic Spacer Revisited
#106
Originally posted by St Louis Lightning
Very Simple - 1 Question for you Odin.
Do you believe that testing from one truck is enough proof to base a purchase on?
-Mark
Very Simple - 1 Question for you Odin.
Do you believe that testing from one truck is enough proof to base a purchase on?
-Mark
It was for me.
The only reason this is true is that it was done correctly. I don't think that anyone was expecting to see the gains Gator got on a hot engine. There's more to it than just the airflow benefits of a spacer. I actually think the phenolic makes a difference. Like Sal, I didn't think that keeping the heat from transferring to the upper plenum would make any difference in the final temps entering the engine. It's only about a foot long after all. On reflection, there is a lot of surface area inside that plenum. Reducing the temp of the air going into the top of the blower has to have some affect on the temps of the air entering the engine. Especially if the air temp is a lot cooler coming out of the upper plenum. And it is. The gains on a hot engine seem to bare this out. I think... No, I'm sure that if the test were done correctly by someone else, on a different truck, with a different dyno, the numbers would support the results from Gator's truck. Hopefully, someone will have the time, the patience, and the cash to do the testing in order to satisfy those that aren't willing to throw a few hundred bucks at trying to disprove a $100.00 part on their own.
#107
Originally posted by Odin's Wrath
It was for me.
The only reason this is true is that it was done correctly.
It was for me.
The only reason this is true is that it was done correctly.
We did 2 pulls that would at the very least be considered cool no spacer vs cool with spacer. We didn't see Gator's results for his listed cold vs cold. Don't see how you can dispute that since there wasn't a pull 5 and 6 in Gator's numbers either to act as a control..
Please explain?
-Mark
#108
Originally posted by St Louis Lightning
First you tell me that 6 pulls are needed to do this correctly. Now you state that Gator's 4 pulls are doing it correctly. So which is it?
We did 2 pulls that would at the very least be considered cool no spacer vs cool with spacer. We didn't see Gator's results for his listed cold vs cold. Don't see how you can dispute that since there wasn't a pull 5 and 6 in Gator's numbers either to act as a control..
Please explain?
-Mark
First you tell me that 6 pulls are needed to do this correctly. Now you state that Gator's 4 pulls are doing it correctly. So which is it?
We did 2 pulls that would at the very least be considered cool no spacer vs cool with spacer. We didn't see Gator's results for his listed cold vs cold. Don't see how you can dispute that since there wasn't a pull 5 and 6 in Gator's numbers either to act as a control..
Please explain?
-Mark
I'm pretty sure that I said 6 would have been ever better. I've stated my point and will not argue semantics. If you do not agree, then fine. I've added my comments to yours; and, those that read this thread may judge for themselves. Have a nice night.
#109
Originally posted by Odin's Wrath
I'm pretty sure that I said 6 would have been ever better. I've stated my point and will not argue semantics. If you do not agree, then fine. I've added my comments to yours; and, those that read this thread may judge for themselves. Have a nice night.
I'm pretty sure that I said 6 would have been ever better. I've stated my point and will not argue semantics. If you do not agree, then fine. I've added my comments to yours; and, those that read this thread may judge for themselves. Have a nice night.
#110
Re: hahha
Originally posted by tallimeca
As for the Metco idlers.....do they really use the same bearing as stock for ones??? If so, how come my stock idler pully bolts couldn't be used with them because they pushed right on the seal of the ball bearings??? I'm not saying they are or they aren't, i'm questionining if it's so. I have to use new hardware to mount them???
I would think of the bearing were the same, then the stock hardware would secrue the pulley right on the inner race.
As for the Metco idlers.....do they really use the same bearing as stock for ones??? If so, how come my stock idler pully bolts couldn't be used with them because they pushed right on the seal of the ball bearings??? I'm not saying they are or they aren't, i'm questionining if it's so. I have to use new hardware to mount them???
I would think of the bearing were the same, then the stock hardware would secrue the pulley right on the inner race.
The stock bolts have a nice wide flange on them that makes excellent contact with the outer race on the bearing and also
serves good purpose as a dust shield. They do not appear to be beveled in such a way to push on the seal. If they did they certainly would bind up. And quick!
#111
#112
It was my truck that we ran the tests on.
Let's just say that without the spacer, making a back-to-back run, I only lost 10 peak hp. I'll take a look at the DynoJet files tomorrow and see what it looks like through the RPM range.
Basically what it sounds like, is that there needs to be a test running w/o spacer and the engine cooled, then brought up to operating temps. Do another pull almost immediately after (i.e. "Hot Lapping" as many do at the strip). Do another pull almost immediately after that.
Repeat the same with the phenolic spacer, and compare the 6 graphs.
What we DID prove, is that the whole issue of "straightening" the air, and benefits. It made 0 difference on a legitimate comparison with and without... ok, maybe 1hp/2tq at the MOST. Barely a .25% difference, nothing to base gains or losses on.
On the other hand, I do believe that there are gains to be had with the new C&L upper intake. There's more of a radiused bend and more volume for airflow. If anyone wants to lend a C&L upper, I have just the guy who will let us test it on his dyno
As little (or nothing) that the phenolic spacer gave me, I still plan on keeping it on.
Let's just say that without the spacer, making a back-to-back run, I only lost 10 peak hp. I'll take a look at the DynoJet files tomorrow and see what it looks like through the RPM range.
Basically what it sounds like, is that there needs to be a test running w/o spacer and the engine cooled, then brought up to operating temps. Do another pull almost immediately after (i.e. "Hot Lapping" as many do at the strip). Do another pull almost immediately after that.
Repeat the same with the phenolic spacer, and compare the 6 graphs.
What we DID prove, is that the whole issue of "straightening" the air, and benefits. It made 0 difference on a legitimate comparison with and without... ok, maybe 1hp/2tq at the MOST. Barely a .25% difference, nothing to base gains or losses on.
On the other hand, I do believe that there are gains to be had with the new C&L upper intake. There's more of a radiused bend and more volume for airflow. If anyone wants to lend a C&L upper, I have just the guy who will let us test it on his dyno
As little (or nothing) that the phenolic spacer gave me, I still plan on keeping it on.
#113
Re: Phenolic Spacer Results
Originally posted by Stl01SVT
Just got back from the dyno. Mark "St Louis Lightning" ran a controlled test on phenolic spacer vs no spacer. I'm sure he'll post the results as soon as he gets home. Some may be a little surprised with the results.
Just got back from the dyno. Mark "St Louis Lightning" ran a controlled test on phenolic spacer vs no spacer. I'm sure he'll post the results as soon as he gets home. Some may be a little surprised with the results.
#114
When magazines bolt on an aftermarket part and dyno, they don't generally make several or a half dozen pulls. Basically it's done on the same motor with similar conditions.
Gator's tests indicate some difference. That's good enough for me to spend $50.00, besides I have been a long time fan of keeping intake charge temps down anyway possible.
I see some insinuation that the $50-$80 could be a waste of money. Perhaps, but there are SO MANY on these boards that:
a. Put $500 exhaust on for the sound.
b. Buy a single blade throttle body for close to $400.
Having said that, it makes the spacer look like a good deal for $50 and 5-8 HP.
Gator's tests indicate some difference. That's good enough for me to spend $50.00, besides I have been a long time fan of keeping intake charge temps down anyway possible.
I see some insinuation that the $50-$80 could be a waste of money. Perhaps, but there are SO MANY on these boards that:
a. Put $500 exhaust on for the sound.
b. Buy a single blade throttle body for close to $400.
Having said that, it makes the spacer look like a good deal for $50 and 5-8 HP.
#115
#116
Originally posted by St Louis Lightning
Most paid more than $50 - up to about $150 shipped if bought from JDM with new EGR tube. So at what dollar point do we become more worried about benefits/ ROI?
-Mark
Most paid more than $50 - up to about $150 shipped if bought from JDM with new EGR tube. So at what dollar point do we become more worried about benefits/ ROI?
-Mark
$150 for a spacer!!!!!!????????
That's almost as crazy as paying $500+(all estimates include shipping) for a caged pulley, $35 for a boost bypass which can be done for free, $300+ for an aluminium driveshaft which does nothing, $500+ for a SBTB which does very little, $600 for an electric fan which reduces cooling efficiency and a high performance pump which was designed for a car without AC (Cobra R), $80 for idlers that give you 5-8hp (Yeah right!) and so on....
Get the picture?
TB
#117
Originally posted by TrackBeast
$150 for a spacer!!!!!!????????
That's almost as crazy as . . . $600 for an electric fan which reduces cooling efficiency and a high performance pump which was designed for a car without AC (Cobra R), . . .
$150 for a spacer!!!!!!????????
That's almost as crazy as . . . $600 for an electric fan which reduces cooling efficiency and a high performance pump which was designed for a car without AC (Cobra R), . . .
#118
Hi Tim,
You are one of the few who has actually tried to cut through the BS and determine the effectiveness of the aftermarket products sold for our trucks. I'm amazed at how many just swallow the outrageous and nebulous claims made by people trying to profit from gullible individuals who end up destroying their vehicles.
There may be some good fan kits out there but I haven't seen one that can equal the capabilities of the stock system. SVT did and excellent job on the cooling system on this vehicle and this really shows up when subjected to extreme conditions.
I'm really just trying to make a point that consumers should be more discriminant and question some of the claims being made, as well as understand how certain modifications will impact the long-term reliability of their vehicle. What do they call this; Buyer Beware?
TB
You are one of the few who has actually tried to cut through the BS and determine the effectiveness of the aftermarket products sold for our trucks. I'm amazed at how many just swallow the outrageous and nebulous claims made by people trying to profit from gullible individuals who end up destroying their vehicles.
There may be some good fan kits out there but I haven't seen one that can equal the capabilities of the stock system. SVT did and excellent job on the cooling system on this vehicle and this really shows up when subjected to extreme conditions.
I'm really just trying to make a point that consumers should be more discriminant and question some of the claims being made, as well as understand how certain modifications will impact the long-term reliability of their vehicle. What do they call this; Buyer Beware?
TB
#119
thinking of the principles of heatsinks, if the spacers makes it so the upper plenum doens't heat up that would mean its insulating the supercharger which keeps more heat in there.
the spacer certainy isn't dissapting heat
But who knows whats better, more heat in just the sc, or a lil less heat spread over SC + upper plenum?
the spacer certainy isn't dissapting heat
But who knows whats better, more heat in just the sc, or a lil less heat spread over SC + upper plenum?