Lightning

line lock brake bleed

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Old 11-01-2004 | 06:51 PM
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From: Elkton, MD
line lock brake bleed

Installed the solenoid portion of my line lock kit tonight, was getting dark so I didn't wire it. Question is: when you bleed your brakes, is it necessary to bleed through the abs? I figured the line was full from the MC to the abs, so I only bled the new line through the solenoid. Brakes feel fine, so I can only assume the air is out?
Sincerely,
Bryan
 
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Old 11-01-2004 | 07:20 PM
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I just bled mine through the front calipers.
 
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Old 11-01-2004 | 07:24 PM
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From: Elkton, MD
Originally posted by chimshady1
I just bled mine through the front calipers.
Yeah I was just curious if this is necessary. I didn't really want to push any air through the abs, a guy I work with (former ford service writer) stated that I would need to have a dealership bleed the abs?
Thanks for the reply!
Bryan
 
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Old 11-01-2004 | 07:52 PM
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I was reading a ROB02 post about loss of front brakes. Could air in the abs be the culprit? Just food for thought, seems weird to have this problem occur randomly.
Bryan
 
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Old 11-01-2004 | 11:22 PM
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I purchased my kit from Sal at Power Surge Performance and thats all he told me to do so i'm asuming its all that needs to be done.
 
  #6  
Old 11-02-2004 | 01:43 AM
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From: Kihei, HI (most of the time)
A good trick to avoid the bleeding problem is by removing just one pad from each front caliper and then applying the brakes lightly. That will move the pistons out and put more fluid into the caliper. Watch the reservoir as you apply the brakes to make sure that you don't run out of fluid in the master cylinder. Then cut the line and install the line lock. Once it is in place, simply re-install the pads, forcing the fluid up the lines and back into the master, taking any air that was in the lines back up to the reservoir.
 
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Old 11-02-2004 | 07:02 AM
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From: Elkton, MD
Originally posted by kerno
A good trick to avoid the bleeding problem is by removing just one pad from each front caliper and then applying the brakes lightly. That will move the pistons out and put more fluid into the caliper. Watch the reservoir as you apply the brakes to make sure that you don't run out of fluid in the master cylinder. Then cut the line and install the line lock. Once it is in place, simply re-install the pads, forcing the fluid up the lines and back into the master, taking any air that was in the lines back up to the reservoir.
Wow, didn't think of that! Thanks for the tip. If I have any problems I will definently try it.
Bryan
 
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Old 11-02-2004 | 07:23 AM
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From: Richmond, VA, USA
Originally posted by bglanden
a guy I work with (former ford service writer) stated that I would need to have a dealership bleed the abs?
the only time you would have to electronically bleed the abs is if you completely replaced the HCU (hydraulic control unit).

so you don't have to worry about that issue.

I just installed the line lock and bled through the front calipers like normal.

later,
chris
 
  #9  
Old 11-02-2004 | 08:06 AM
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From: Stinkin Joisey
Good question,

Installed my line-lock sunday and bleed the brakes thru the calipers.
Bleed the brakes four times, and Never got any air
And I know air entered the system
 
  #10  
Old 11-02-2004 | 10:18 AM
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Might have to pump alot of fluid out of the caliper before you get air. Are you doing it the old fashioned way, with someone in the truck pumping the brakes, or with a hand held vaccum pump and cup? The vaccum pump is the way to go if you are alone. Start at the passenger side first, then the driver side.
 
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Old 11-02-2004 | 06:16 PM
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From: Elkton, MD
Originally posted by Grimace
Might have to pump alot of fluid out of the caliper before you get air. Are you doing it the old fashioned way, with someone in the truck pumping the brakes, or with a hand held vaccum pump and cup? The vaccum pump is the way to go if you are alone. Start at the passenger side first, then the driver side.
Yeah, I did it the old fashioned way (had wifey pump up the pedal and hold). Where I used to work we had a bleeder ball, damx I wish I was there. I have a really good pedal, so I don't think I'm going to sweat it! Thanks for the reply's!
Bryan
 
  #12  
Old 11-02-2004 | 06:40 PM
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From: NJ
Originally posted by kerno
A good trick to avoid the bleeding problem is by removing just one pad from each front caliper and then applying the brakes lightly. That will move the pistons out and put more fluid into the caliper. Watch the reservoir as you apply the brakes to make sure that you don't run out of fluid in the master cylinder. Then cut the line and install the line lock. Once it is in place, simply re-install the pads, forcing the fluid up the lines and back into the master, taking any air that was in the lines back up to the reservoir.
That sounds to risky, as well as to complicated.

If you can remove the calipers and remove a pad, then you can bleed the brakes which is far easier and safer, plus it's always better to get fresh fluid in there.
 
  #13  
Old 11-02-2004 | 10:48 PM
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From: Kihei, HI (most of the time)
Well, Captain, I disagree. The only risk is that you'll get air in the system if you run the fluid to low - in which case you have to bleed 'em anyway. Doing it my way completely avoids the brake fluid mess at tha caliper - especially if you've painted them like I have. It also takes advatage of gravity. That air would much rather rise in the line than be forced downward. Oh, and best of all, it only takes one person to do the whole job. No "step" "hold" "release" while you hope the other person understands what you are trying to do. And, in terms of scope of work, removing a pad is a lot lot easier than bleeding a caliper. I offerred the suggestion as a way to make the task easier for those who are faced with a potential problem. I don't care how you do it, but since the alternate way just might be better for some people, I felt it was worth the time to post.......
 
  #14  
Old 11-03-2004 | 01:19 AM
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From: Edmond, Ok.
I will try the vaccum pump method when I do mine, and the remove a pad method when I install my buddies. I will post which way is easier.
 
  #15  
Old 11-03-2004 | 02:07 AM
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From: Kihei, HI (most of the time)
If the pads are worn and you are going to replace them anyway, just do the line lock before you change the pads. Then when you compress the pistons to install the new pads, the task is done.
 



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