KB or the bottle?
#17
Go out to your truck and open the hood. Stand there and watch/listen to it running. Then go switch it off, and remove the blower belt then start it up again and listen to it. It is insane how much noise the blower makes. Espcially when you go to a one piece uncaged lower pulley. If it was activated it would constantly be going off; not sure, but it might be useable with a KB. Something to look into.
#18
#19
Originally posted by fast1
I have always heard that Lightning's don't have knock sensors. Reason being, knock sensors work off of vibration. The Eaton makes so much vibration that the knock sensor would always be on. Basically, what Casey02L just said.
I have always heard that Lightning's don't have knock sensors. Reason being, knock sensors work off of vibration. The Eaton makes so much vibration that the knock sensor would always be on. Basically, what Casey02L just said.
#20
hmmm
first off, if you decide to go ported......don't switch to a 4lb. You need to spin the blower faster with the ported blower. I'm going to a six next season because of the same thing. I lost torque from the port and it's because it's not spinning fast enough in the lower rpm range to make the same power at the same levels it was.
Second off, instead of soaking all this money and dyno time into the truck.........if your goal is what you say it is.........leave the motor alone and put a convertor, traction bars , adj rear shocks and a set of real slicks on it and be done. That way there no extra stress on the engine and I guarentee you'll be in the mid to low 12's in the quarter, and 7's in the 1/8.........for around 2k.
I have similar mods and my truck will not launch on nittos. I either have to baby it out or if i launch with any kind of aggresion, they go up in smoke.
Traction bars and Hoosier QTP's dropped my 60's a consistant 2 tenths. A torque converter is good for the ability to drop another 1-2 tenths. No dyno tune, no plug changes. No wiring and rounting the juice. No expense in filling the bottle.
Second off, instead of soaking all this money and dyno time into the truck.........if your goal is what you say it is.........leave the motor alone and put a convertor, traction bars , adj rear shocks and a set of real slicks on it and be done. That way there no extra stress on the engine and I guarentee you'll be in the mid to low 12's in the quarter, and 7's in the 1/8.........for around 2k.
I have similar mods and my truck will not launch on nittos. I either have to baby it out or if i launch with any kind of aggresion, they go up in smoke.
Traction bars and Hoosier QTP's dropped my 60's a consistant 2 tenths. A torque converter is good for the ability to drop another 1-2 tenths. No dyno tune, no plug changes. No wiring and rounting the juice. No expense in filling the bottle.
#21
Originally posted by 2bscrewed
Yes but all the gm eaton blown vehicles use them.
Yes but all the gm eaton blown vehicles use them.
#22
Re: hmmm
Originally posted by tallimeca
first off, if you decide to go ported......don't switch to a 4lb. You need to spin the blower faster with the ported blower. I'm going to a six next season because of the same thing. I lost torque from the port and it's because it's not spinning fast enough in the lower rpm range to make the same power at the same levels it was.
Second off, instead of soaking all this money and dyno time into the truck.........if your goal is what you say it is.........leave the motor alone and put a convertor, traction bars , adj rear shocks and a set of real slicks on it and be done. That way there no extra stress on the engine and I guarentee you'll be in the mid to low 12's in the quarter, and 7's in the 1/8.........for around 2k.
I have similar mods and my truck will not launch on nittos. I either have to baby it out or if i launch with any kind of aggresion, they go up in smoke.
Traction bars and Hoosier QTP's dropped my 60's a consistant 2 tenths. A torque converter is good for the ability to drop another 1-2 tenths. No dyno tune, no plug changes. No wiring and rounting the juice. No expense in filling the bottle.
first off, if you decide to go ported......don't switch to a 4lb. You need to spin the blower faster with the ported blower. I'm going to a six next season because of the same thing. I lost torque from the port and it's because it's not spinning fast enough in the lower rpm range to make the same power at the same levels it was.
Second off, instead of soaking all this money and dyno time into the truck.........if your goal is what you say it is.........leave the motor alone and put a convertor, traction bars , adj rear shocks and a set of real slicks on it and be done. That way there no extra stress on the engine and I guarentee you'll be in the mid to low 12's in the quarter, and 7's in the 1/8.........for around 2k.
I have similar mods and my truck will not launch on nittos. I either have to baby it out or if i launch with any kind of aggresion, they go up in smoke.
Traction bars and Hoosier QTP's dropped my 60's a consistant 2 tenths. A torque converter is good for the ability to drop another 1-2 tenths. No dyno tune, no plug changes. No wiring and rounting the juice. No expense in filling the bottle.
I have a chance to pick up a torque converter for decent price from halflife but I am concerned that it will be not good for daily driver. I have never driven anything other then a factory stall converter and have heard its not the best for a daily driver. I don't need to burn the tires off leaving from every stop light?
Is a 2400-2600 rpm stall to much on a daily driver? I do have budgeted about 5k for the initial investment so the money thing is not really to much of an issue, however I do want to get the best "bang for my buck" I can.
Bob
#23
If you're easy on the gas, the higher stall isn't going to make you blow the tires off just trying to drive normally away from a stop.
In fact, it may feel a bit more sluggish than stock, so that you'll give it a bit more gas. It's only when you really stand on it hard that it will nuke the rubber. Think about doing a standing start at 2600 vs. 1200. Obviously you make more power/torque at the higher revs, so it will launch much harder (on slicks).
But that low of stall will not have an adverse affect on day-to-day driving. Something like a 4000 or higher would not be fun b/c the vehicle would be very lazy until it reached the higher revs...burning more gas, heating up the trans more, etc. In fact, you'd definitely have to run a larger trans cooler with something like that.
Not sure if you need more trans cooling capacity with just a 24-2600 converter. Something to look into, though.
In fact, it may feel a bit more sluggish than stock, so that you'll give it a bit more gas. It's only when you really stand on it hard that it will nuke the rubber. Think about doing a standing start at 2600 vs. 1200. Obviously you make more power/torque at the higher revs, so it will launch much harder (on slicks).
But that low of stall will not have an adverse affect on day-to-day driving. Something like a 4000 or higher would not be fun b/c the vehicle would be very lazy until it reached the higher revs...burning more gas, heating up the trans more, etc. In fact, you'd definitely have to run a larger trans cooler with something like that.
Not sure if you need more trans cooling capacity with just a 24-2600 converter. Something to look into, though.
#24
nice
the pi 2400 stall seems to be the drug of choice.
Gregg Evans also has a Total Dominator convertor which he claims is awesome. I think he even has one a step below too, but if you are going to do it, do it right.
As far as daily driver, you will notice a slight difference but only because it's your truck and you are used to it. I remember back a few years ago when Don's Bolt had Jim do his motor and tranny, he let me take it for a spin and i could tell there was a slight difference witht he higher stall convertor but I wouldn't step to say there was any kind of driveablility issue by no means.
Gregg Evans also has a Total Dominator convertor which he claims is awesome. I think he even has one a step below too, but if you are going to do it, do it right.
As far as daily driver, you will notice a slight difference but only because it's your truck and you are used to it. I remember back a few years ago when Don's Bolt had Jim do his motor and tranny, he let me take it for a spin and i could tell there was a slight difference witht he higher stall convertor but I wouldn't step to say there was any kind of driveablility issue by no means.