Which is the best way to install the sensor drill the 9/16 hole and weld the fitting in for the sensor or drill the 1/8 hole and use the strap that comes with the kit to hold the sensor in hmmm hate to drill anyholes in my new kooks headers any 1 done this install? thks

 

Surely some1 has done this.....

 

I've done it on header in my past vehicles and I've done it on my L in the factory manifold.

My suggestions would be to make a permanent conection - not the-stick-in-a-hole-and-hold-with-a-band-clamp sensor.

I can't give you any specifics on the size of hole required or the bung to use for your setup, but on mine I used 1/8" NPT stainless steel sch. 80 couplings, cut in half, fish-mouthed, the welded to each tube of my headers. My headers weren't stainless, so I had to paint the welds. With a bung in each tube, I could run 1/8" galley plugs in seven of them and move my probe around for testing and diagnostics.

I think EasterIslander had EGTs on headers, but I'm not 100% sure.

Good Luck,
Herb

 

what is a pyrometer?

 

Same thing as an EGT, just a different term. They measure the temperature of the exhaust gas (usually with a Type K thermocouple) to assist in tuning and engine safety. Elevated exhaust temps are a sign of either increased engine load or an A/F ratio problem.

Herb

 

is it a more acurate way of measuring a/f then the wide band we comonly use?

 

Why not use this accurate A/F meter?

 

I don't think so...I pulled my EGT to installa DJ-WBC. While my truck is down, I may play with putting the EGT back into service - if I can find a new hole for a gauge!

One of the probelms with EGT is that it can show "too hot" for an overly lean condition or an overly rich condition (combustion in the header tubes).

If you only use one - the WB O2 would be the safest.

Herb

 

I hate this trial & error didnt have the money right now 4 the wideband thought this egt would do 4 now.

 

Don't know if this helps or will give you peace of mind but I put a Banks Pyrometer on my Dodge diesel.

I did the drill and clamp method after the turbo and it has been working fine for over 70k miles without a problem.

I must say though that the scale is pretty wide and it would be hard to see small increments. It is also pretty slow.

I am just comparing for example if you were doing a short 15 second burst at WOT I don't think you would have time to be looking at my little pyrometer.

Any information is good though.

 

Any gauge mods are a plus if you have a/f ratio gauge and egt and know how to read them could save you a motor