what are some good fuel additives and oil treatments?
#31
It does not actually contain Hydrochloric acid. That is the byproduct produced when Prolongs chlorinated lube mixes with water in your crankcase. This is why people with short stop and go trips will have more problems than people with long commutes. There are sites the show the bearing load test passes with chlorox bleach. Keep searching. I used Prolong in my 98 Explorer until someone showed me the links and bad press. If you still feel comfortable using it after multiple people have told you it is bad go right ahead. After all it is your truck.
#32
Originally Posted by lurker
You took an engine with rod knock apart and everything looked new?
Or were you talking about one of the race engines? In case you missed it, the BS was called on the rod knock motor that ran for 30 mins. with no oil. I'd call BS too! It doesn't matter how many crevices something gets into if the bearings are already pounded and the cushion of oil is removed!
Or were you talking about one of the race engines? In case you missed it, the BS was called on the rod knock motor that ran for 30 mins. with no oil. I'd call BS too! It doesn't matter how many crevices something gets into if the bearings are already pounded and the cushion of oil is removed!
#33
Originally Posted by Norm
It does not actually contain Hydrochloric acid. That is the byproduct produced when Prolongs chlorinated lube mixes with water in your crankcase. This is why people with short stop and go trips will have more problems than people with long commutes. There are sites the show the bearing load test passes with chlorox bleach. Keep searching. I used Prolong in my 98 Explorer until someone showed me the links and bad press. If you still feel comfortable using it after multiple people have told you it is bad go right ahead. After all it is your truck.
#34
All I know is that If they cant make any scienitific claim or provide some sort of clinical proof that their product works, I aint putting it in my truck.
As far as an engine idling for 30 minutes with no oil in it or a race engine being "exceptionally clean" , It has nothing to do with how this oil will work in my every day driver.
I could dump gear lube into the crank case and drain it.......Im sure the engine would probably idle for 30 minutes. Thats doesnt imply that it my engine will last longer if I added gear lube to my engine oil every oil change??
As far as I know, the internals of an engine dont have to be immaculate to run properly. Its kind of an unfair statement to make. A race engine wont have problems with Sludge, and if its running WOT its going to be pretty hard to get carbon build up any ways. Hell, For all you know that engine might be so clean from the chlorinated lube eating away at the internals???
And showing how well an oil works by dumping dirt into the crank case????
WTF is that???
Untill they come up with some sort of proof that it works, Its nothing but snake oil to me.
As far as an engine idling for 30 minutes with no oil in it or a race engine being "exceptionally clean" , It has nothing to do with how this oil will work in my every day driver.
I could dump gear lube into the crank case and drain it.......Im sure the engine would probably idle for 30 minutes. Thats doesnt imply that it my engine will last longer if I added gear lube to my engine oil every oil change??
As far as I know, the internals of an engine dont have to be immaculate to run properly. Its kind of an unfair statement to make. A race engine wont have problems with Sludge, and if its running WOT its going to be pretty hard to get carbon build up any ways. Hell, For all you know that engine might be so clean from the chlorinated lube eating away at the internals???
And showing how well an oil works by dumping dirt into the crank case????
WTF is that???
Untill they come up with some sort of proof that it works, Its nothing but snake oil to me.
Last edited by Podunk; 10-30-2005 at 04:20 PM.
#35
Untill they come up with some sort of proof that it works, Its nothing but snake oil to me.[/QUOTE]
to each their own of course, and by no means would I expect anyone to do something they arent sure about. I use it on older engines and race engines nfor extra insurance since it definitely made a difference in the longjevity of our race engine. it's tried and true so far for our application.
to each their own of course, and by no means would I expect anyone to do something they arent sure about. I use it on older engines and race engines nfor extra insurance since it definitely made a difference in the longjevity of our race engine. it's tried and true so far for our application.
#36
To get back to the initial request, my recommendation after exhaustive research and speaking to a fluid engineer is to not use oil additives. The correct balance in a good synthetic is very hard to achieve and additives could alter that balance.
For the fuel system, I use Red Line SL-1. Unlike most other products it is not solvent based but detergent based which enable them to make it stronger and far more effective.
That's my 2 cents.
TB
For the fuel system, I use Red Line SL-1. Unlike most other products it is not solvent based but detergent based which enable them to make it stronger and far more effective.
That's my 2 cents.
TB
#38
Originally Posted by Doug Raymond
I use seafoam on my outboard motor it is great to help reduce carbon buildup on 2 cycle motors. oil addatives I fill are for old worn out motors. If you use a quality fuel why would you need an addative?
#40
Originally Posted by Rayden's cloud
I was just curious as to what were some good fuel/oil additives to use..I've been using the chevron techroline fuel additive but saw Marvel Mystery oil & gas treatment.. Also I heard Lucas has a big name and wanted to know how would you rate there gas treatment? I know basically all of them do the same thing as far as helping the fuel system. I aslo heard some bad things about how boosters and additives can harm your plugs etc. I started to buy some Marvel mystery or Lucas today but skeptical and wanted to see what you guys thought about them first.. Prestone has a lineup also..
#41
My company has tested just about everything out there to help engine wear, and fuel mileage and nothing works good enough to off set the additional cost. We are not allowed to put anything in our work vehicles other than clean oil, (brand doesn't matter), filter, and fuel with a 10,000 mile requirement for a fuel filter change. We have alot of vehicles that are over 100,000 miles and 7 or 8 years old. I used to put all of the latest fade additives in my vehicles and really never saw a difference. Not to say they don't work, just not worth the additional expense.
#42
I totally agree with the above post. Everytime you see a new snake oil with a fancy marketing campaign behind it. it usually ends up being very short of its claims.
Talk with an oil engineer and they will tell you not to add anything but there sure isn't any shortage of snake oil salesmen out there.
Just like the Tornado. Every test has shown that it doesn't work on a fuel injected engine. But they still sell. Company is owned by a Chinese guy. Probably laugh at how stupid people are.
TB
Talk with an oil engineer and they will tell you not to add anything but there sure isn't any shortage of snake oil salesmen out there.
Just like the Tornado. Every test has shown that it doesn't work on a fuel injected engine. But they still sell. Company is owned by a Chinese guy. Probably laugh at how stupid people are.
TB
#44
I had a late 80's ranger with a 2.3 that a bunch or buddies and me drained all the oil and antifreeze to blow it up. The ranger didnt have a rev limiter but ran out of steam around 10k rpms and wouldnt rev any higher. Took a brick and let it rev its max and it lasted almost 20 minutes before it blew a rod out the side. The next day the truck started. (P.S.) These trucks at 60+ had problems with reverse lockout and you could drop it into reverse and do some mean burnouts.
For skeptics I have it on tape of the oil drain, antifreeze drain, and blowup.
For skeptics I have it on tape of the oil drain, antifreeze drain, and blowup.