It does not actually contain Hydrochloric acid. That is the byproduct produced when Prolongs chlorinated lube mixes with water in your crankcase. This is why people with short stop and go trips will have more problems than people with long commutes. There are sites the show the bearing load test passes with chlorox bleach. Keep searching. I used Prolong in my 98 Explorer until someone showed me the links and bad press. If you still feel comfortable using it after multiple people have told you it is bad go right ahead. After all it is your truck.

 

the engine I took apart was the race engine that was way overdue for an overhaul due to hours of racing, nothing was wrong with it at all since we had changed over to the pro-long. The knocking motor was another engine on another car.

 

I'm still curious just how bad the hydrochloric acid is as far as acidity and concentrate, is it really enough to do any damage? Has there been any problems or engine failures due to this? Anyone heard of an engine failing and pro-long actually being the cause? Things like Slick 50 and a few of the STP oil thickeners have been actually at fault for a few engines I have torn down in my time. I've never seen any Pro Long victims personally.

 

All I know is that If they cant make any scienitific claim or provide some sort of clinical proof that their product works, I aint putting it in my truck.


As far as an engine idling for 30 minutes with no oil in it or a race engine being "exceptionally clean" , It has nothing to do with how this oil will work in my every day driver.

I could dump gear lube into the crank case and drain it.......Im sure the engine would probably idle for 30 minutes. Thats doesnt imply that it my engine will last longer if I added gear lube to my engine oil every oil change??

As far as I know, the internals of an engine dont have to be immaculate to run properly. Its kind of an unfair statement to make. A race engine wont have problems with Sludge, and if its running WOT its going to be pretty hard to get carbon build up any ways. Hell, For all you know that engine might be so clean from the chlorinated lube eating away at the internals???

And showing how well an oil works by dumping dirt into the crank case????

WTF is that???

Untill they come up with some sort of proof that it works, Its nothing but snake oil to me.

 

Untill they come up with some sort of proof that it works, Its nothing but snake oil to me.[/QUOTE]
to each their own of course, and by no means would I expect anyone to do something they arent sure about. I use it on older engines and race engines nfor extra insurance since it definitely made a difference in the longjevity of our race engine. it's tried and true so far for our application.

 

To get back to the initial request, my recommendation after exhaustive research and speaking to a fluid engineer is to not use oil additives. The correct balance in a good synthetic is very hard to achieve and additives could alter that balance.

For the fuel system, I use Red Line SL-1. Unlike most other products it is not solvent based but detergent based which enable them to make it stronger and far more effective.

That's my 2 cents.

TB

 

I use seafoam on my outboard motor it is great to help reduce carbon buildup on 2 cycle motors. oil addatives I fill are for old worn out motors. If you use a quality fuel why would you need an addative?

 

I do agree with this theory, I've used it on older more worn out engines, and race engines that we couldnt afford to rebuild that season, and it worked great, got over 200k miles on my old over-raced 5.0 Mustang with the additive (Pro-Long) and it did the trick. IA have 16k on my Lightning and use synthetic and Chevron, I will probably pour some Pro-Long in it at like 80k miles or something. I dont see the point now. I do agree that Pro Long over did it with their advertizing, and it caused some issues, and the stuff does seem to work but not a necessity on a young engine. THANKS FOR SUMMING IT UP DOUG! good job!

 

Okay guys,
I'm going off your suggestions and purchased the Sea Foam Transmission/Power Steering Treatment and the Gas/Oil Treatment. Stay tuned for feedback......

 

I didnt read all the posts so it may have been said. But BG44K is a very good product. Great for keeping the fuel system clean.

 

My company has tested just about everything out there to help engine wear, and fuel mileage and nothing works good enough to off set the additional cost. We are not allowed to put anything in our work vehicles other than clean oil, (brand doesn't matter), filter, and fuel with a 10,000 mile requirement for a fuel filter change. We have alot of vehicles that are over 100,000 miles and 7 or 8 years old. I used to put all of the latest fade additives in my vehicles and really never saw a difference. Not to say they don't work, just not worth the additional expense.

 

I totally agree with the above post. Everytime you see a new snake oil with a fancy marketing campaign behind it. it usually ends up being very short of its claims.

Talk with an oil engineer and they will tell you not to add anything but there sure isn't any shortage of snake oil salesmen out there.

Just like the Tornado. Every test has shown that it doesn't work on a fuel injected engine. But they still sell. Company is owned by a Chinese guy. Probably laugh at how stupid people are.

TB

 

I know for a fact that the BG 44K works for cleaning the fuel system. YOu only use it everything 15 thou miles or so. I have seen were it cleaned lead off 02 sensors on a friends f bod.

 

I had a late 80's ranger with a 2.3 that a bunch or buddies and me drained all the oil and antifreeze to blow it up. The ranger didnt have a rev limiter but ran out of steam around 10k rpms and wouldnt rev any higher. Took a brick and let it rev its max and it lasted almost 20 minutes before it blew a rod out the side. The next day the truck started. (P.S.) These trucks at 60+ had problems with reverse lockout and you could drop it into reverse and do some mean burnouts.

For skeptics I have it on tape of the oil drain, antifreeze drain, and blowup.