listen up fella's here's a update on how to remove the EGR system and if you want, the boost bypass system:

remember that you will have to have both shut off in your chip/tune or you will get a SES light for the EGR and the boost bypass(newer trucks 02 and up?)

lets start out by identifying what is what.



I. EGR solenoid- it is what actually opens and closes the EGR valve on the upper plenum.
II. DPFE- Differential Pressure Feedback- this read the difference in exhaust gases to fire the EGR solenoid to open the EGR valve, (how much exhaust gases to feed back to the intake)
III. Boost bypass solenoid- not to be confused with the boost bypass valve(on supercharger), this is what actuates the boost dump valve.
IV. BAP- Bararmetric air Pressure sensor- reads the barametric pressure of the ambient air in the engine bay. this does not get removed and is needed. also there is a blue o-ring on the bottom connected to nothing. do not worry there is nothing missing. that's just how ford did it. the BAP must stay on the truck. DO NOT REMOVE IT OR DISCONNECT IT.

here is what will be removed if you remove ONLY the EGR system.

 

now that you know what's on the black shelf you have to decide weather you want to remove the EGR or the EGR and boost bypass- your call. I opted to keep the Boost bypass and just disconnect the electrical connection at the track.

first remove the upper and lower connections on the EGR Pipe:

this is located on the drivers side of the engine and can be removed with a 1&1/4" wrench or a LARGE cressent wrench.

next which electrical lines to remove for EGR only:


disconnect the connector on the EGR solenoid and the DPFE sensor. labeled number V.


the vaccuum lines are next FOR EGR REMOVAL ONLY.

the only lines you have to remove are the green line which goes from the top of the EGR Valve to the top line input on the EGR solenoid

and the red line that goes from the bottom line input of the EGR solenoid goes around the supercharger and to the input of upper intake. I put a screw in there large enough to ensure no vacuum leak. also the two lines coming off the EGR pipe going into the DPFE sensor can be removed.

 

now you can either leave the EGR valve on the intake manifold as it will act as a blockoff plate since no lines are connected to open the valve, or you can make/purchase a blockoff plate. I opted to puchase a blockoff plate.

I cut the mounting bracket for all those sensors in front of the boost bypass solenoid. I also cut the mounting bracket for all the sensors in front of the boost bypass solenoid with a saws-all and then sanded it down and painted it.(boxed in orange)


I then took the loose connectors and zip tied them to the underside of the plastic cover for the ignition/fuel injector wire bundle. labeled VII

and last but not least you will need a block off on the exhaust manifold/longtube/shorty. I purchased a brass hose cap from home depot.


that is all that is needed to remove the EGR system.

 

Now if you want to remove the boost dump solenoid heres how:

I. first remove the pink line.
II. remove the black line on the top of the boost dump solenoid and put it on the line input on the boost bypass valve as shown with the red arrow in the picture.
III remove the black line on the bottom, this line will run to behind the battery like this and will need to be capped off. heres a pic


now disconnect the electrical sensor and remove the boost bypass solenoid if you want to.

don't forget to have the tune done for the egr and boost bypass.

sorry for the kindergarten MS paint, but i think it gets the point accross.

hope this clears up the EGR and the boost bypass delete for everyone.

mods- if you want to take this post and move it to how to's that's fine with me. also if you want to take the pics and put them elsewhere to host that's cool to. not sure how much bandwith *** will give me.

 

Nice write up Andy .

 

Why is everyone removing the EGR setup? besides giving better access to the plugs is there any other benefit? I thought removing it increased emissions and decreased fuel milage?

 

if I cared about either of those two things you mentioned I wouldn't be driving the lightning.

but seriously. that is one of the major benefits to removing the egr, sparkplug changes/checking. and it cleans up the engine bay a little. no performance gains other than it removes about three to five pounds off the truck.

 

Nice write up, it definately does clean up the engine bay. Your instructions are also easy to understand and well pictured.

 

Sal, I thought I read somewhere that you didn't recommend the EGR bypass.

Is that right?

Thanks,
David

 

if you take off the boost bypass solenoid what happens? Also that boost for free thing where you bypass the bypass does that still work?

 

Any sealant necessary on the Home Depot Brass Hose Cap?

Thanks.

 

Yes it is, Sal never wanted me to get rid of mine all the times I've asked.
He feels it should stay unless there is a reason to remove it.
In my case we were getting codes pointing to a DEFECTIVE EGR System
Thank You Codes, OH THANK YOU....


NOPE
I put mine on by hand, screwed it on all the way, used a mini pipe wrench to snug it some more, and not a sound coming from it.







Temp Screws were in place on the temp plate in this pic, and I cleaned up all the extra hoses and plugs since.
Note to self, order a New Bling Plate today....

 

black knight, there is no added performance in removing the boost bypass solenoid. some do it so when they do extended burnouts it will not kick in when you go down the track and run a 15 second run, it also will start dumping when you over rev the engine. basically it is a safety feature for the engine to prevent overboost condition. that is why I just disconnect it at the track only.

 

so pretty much your telling me that it dont do nothin! but awnser me this than. The boost for free trick where you bypass the bypass isnt that the same thing as taking the boost solenoid off?

 

performance wise, no it does/should not add any perfomance gain. it is a safety feature for dumping boost when needed. and yes it would be equivelent to the boost bypass mod that you have seen before because that is what they are taking out of the equasion, the boost bypass solenoid. When you reroute the lines you take the boost bypass solenoid out of the system only on this one if you remove it you will need to shut it off in the tune in the newer lightnings or you will get a SES light due to it being disconnected and it being checked for in the OBD II test.

hope this clears things up for you.