adjusting the shocks is simply turning a **** on the shock, takes about 2 seconds. No need to remove anything.

Remember the rear end needs to be lowered at least 2". The shock is a little shorter than the stock ones. I'm running new Bilsteins up front and strange in the rear.

Here is a ton of info:
https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...hlight=strange

The shocks are the ones in the picture lying flat. you can see the **** in that picture.

 

Well, yes.

My calipers and rotors were original equipment on a Ferrari F-40 and F-50. If not "race cars," they are damn close. There is definitely some sort of coating on the rotors. The below photo shows the rotor rings I just installed a couple of weeks ago (zero miles on them).

 

Tim,
Love to see an F40/F50 with plated rotors. Strange to see new factory Brembo rings with plating. I have had three sets of Brembo's, 2 sets of F40's and one set of F50's and three extra sets of rotor rings all were unplated. They did come with a chemical coat that has to be scrubbed off with brake clean and a scotchbrite pad. In fact back in my Trans-Am days plated rotors were banned by the rules. Not sure if that still stands today.

 

I have eibach hangers out back, 3" drop. I just put on my LFP traction bars yesterday. From what I can tell from other pix of the same bars from guys on here not lowered, or not lowered as much, mine are drilled alot farther down the frame than others. So you may have to re-drill. Mine are right on the edge of the angle of the frame when it goes flat. hope that helps.

 

Tim can you weigh in on this part of the post....





So far the here are the things I am fairly certain on, unless I get more info to say other wise.

1) 04 Bilsteins on the front (already have them)($0 but paid $60 a long time ago)
2) Ground Force Springs on the front with 30mm or 1 3/8" drop and bump stops (already have them)($0 but paid $100 a long time ago)
3) 2" drop shackles on the rear ($0) (already installed)


Thing still left to decide:

1) rear shocks
a) 04 bilsteins ($0) (already have, paid $60 a long time ago)
b) Strange Enginneering shocks ($150)
c) QA1's ($250)

2) Rear lowering
a) Remove Leaf ($0)
b) Rear hangers ($?????)
c) Hotchkis Leafs ($?????)

3) Sway Bars
a) no upgrade
b) Hotchkis front and rear ($475)
c) Adjustable rear sway bar ($90)


What else am I missing here and what are your opinions on what I have chosen and what I have left to choose from... I want something similar in stance to a Hotchkis without quite as stiff of a ride?

 

Where did you get the eibach hangers and how much were they?

 

The ones that I replaced (the originals) were also coated the same way. Zero problems. I replaced them just because they were worn below specs. No visible cracking, even around the cross-drilling holes.

My rears (Powerslot cross-drilled) are also coated in the same way.

I'm not sure if it is cadmium, but it has that goldish color with the greenish/reddish reflections (like a ham or corned beef). It must not be very thick, because it was gone from the swept surfaces on both sets with just a few stops.

Why would Brembo coat rotors if it hurt them? No one in the world knows brakes better than Brembo.

 

35th, here are my recommendations:

1) rear shocks: The Bilsteins with So-Cal extenders. They are already valved for the stock springs and cheap to replace.

2) Rear lowering: hangars. I would definitely not remove a leaf. Unless you want to go the So-Cal route, which is removing a leaf and adding an overload/helper spring, which I'm still not high on.

3) Sway Bars: no upgrade. The improvement in handling is slight compared to the money, and handling is not a top priority for you. You can always do this later if you want.

With this setup, you will be lower than stock, but have a near-stock ride. If you like the ride and handling you have now, you will like this setup better, as lowering the CG will improve handling without a significant penalty in ride quality.

 

Ive got some brand new Eibach Hangers if you need them...

 

How much, and how much will they lower the truck from where mine is right now with the 2" shackles. Do I use them in combonation with the shackles? I am probably interested, depending on the price.

 

So I looks like I have come up with the following...

Ground Force front springs
Bump stops
04 Bilsteins all the way around
SoCal shock extenders
Eibach hangers in the rear
C/C kit

A few more questions... Are the Eibach's the best choice for hangers? Where do I get SoCal shock extenders? Do I need shock extenders on all 4 corners? Will my pinion angle change? Will I have to re drill the front mounts of my traction bars when I lower this? Am I missing any thing?

 

A few things to add....

I think you are going to be too low in the rear with shackles and hangers. That's what I am running. They are both on their *HIGHEST* settings too.

You will definately need to shim the axle if you go this route.

If you want to take a look at my truck again I'll be around over the weekend.



My setup:

Wheels are 20x10's

Front:
3" WC spring with stock rubber rings still on.
2" WC lower control arm
Custom made end links to re-align the swabar.

Rear:
WC front hanger (on the highest setting)
WC shackle (on the highest setting)

Also, I REALLY need to C-channel the frame and add shock extenders with this setup. Mark that two for the todo list....

 

What if I use the Eibach hanger and no shackle?

 

/thread highjack on

Tim,

Why aren't your running the race Brembo's SLOTTED ???

The guys at Brembo told me that they don't recommend tracking
the "drilled" (although we all know they are cast!)

Just curious since they are the same price.....

 

I cant remember where i got them, I can dig for the receipt if you really want to know. It looks like you might already have something lined up, let me know. They lowered it pretty good like in the pix. They also came with shims to correct the pinon angle. I like them more than shackles because they move the front end of the spring right next to the frame. But they are a ***** to put in.

before:


after: