Sidewinder Mod Illustrated
#1
Sidewinder Mod Illustrated
We’ve been looking at a few different ways to get cold (ambient) air to our new filter box during idle to help shorten sixty foot times and we may have found one. Bringing ambient air directly into the end of our cone filter from a cool area behind an insulation barrier located at the inside rear of the left front fender where the air is much cooler than inside the inner fender panel.
Accomplishing this wasn’t very complicated but took some time. First we enlarged the hole in the inner fender panel to allow 4” hose to pass through, then we removed the wheel and fender splash shield which allowed us to remove a section of the inner engine compartment side panel using an air chisel (could be done with a Dremel), pushed a 24” section of 4” air hose through the hole we just enlarged, attached it to 224 CFM electric blower motor mounted to a spot on the engine compartment’s side panel under the splash shield. From here we attached another short section of 4” hose to the intake side of the electric blower motor and ran it through the sound/heat insulation barrier at the rear of the fender.
In order to get the hose through the insulation barrier we removed it and cut an oblong hole. It’s easy enough to cut with scissors or a razor knife but there is a plastic support strip that runs vertically through it that had to be cut with side cutters. The end of the hose passes through this hole and pulls ambient air through the driver’s door/fender gap.
Since I don’t use my under hood lamp, it seemed to be the perfect electrical line to use for the motor. The motor calls for an inline 5 amp fuse, just so happens that the hood lamp uses a 5 amp also.
The hose we used is a relatively inexpensive vacuum hose, since it won’t be exposed to extreme heat or weather elements. The fan can be found in most boat/marine stores and it’s the same fans that NASCAR teams use to cool their brakes.
We mounted an On/Off toggle switch to the fuse box compartment door (lower left dashboard) easy to reach from the driver’s seat. When switched on, the air comes through the hose into the end of the filter at 15.8 MPH (as measured with our anemometer) which should be good for the first 60 feet and then our air scoop will have enough air to continue the ram-air effect throughout the quarter mile.
Also, to clean up and seal the hose to fender section, we stretched a section of our black filter to fender foam over the flex hose, it sealed up nicely. Lastly, we used Silicone to seal all around the hose and insulation baffle.
The same thing can be done with 3” hose and a 3” motor. The only difference is that the CFM of the 3” motor is 138 but the velocity doubles raising the MPH of the air to nearly 30.
Not a bad inexpensive mod, ya think?
Cliff, I still haven't given up on brakes, they are next.
Tim
Accomplishing this wasn’t very complicated but took some time. First we enlarged the hole in the inner fender panel to allow 4” hose to pass through, then we removed the wheel and fender splash shield which allowed us to remove a section of the inner engine compartment side panel using an air chisel (could be done with a Dremel), pushed a 24” section of 4” air hose through the hole we just enlarged, attached it to 224 CFM electric blower motor mounted to a spot on the engine compartment’s side panel under the splash shield. From here we attached another short section of 4” hose to the intake side of the electric blower motor and ran it through the sound/heat insulation barrier at the rear of the fender.
In order to get the hose through the insulation barrier we removed it and cut an oblong hole. It’s easy enough to cut with scissors or a razor knife but there is a plastic support strip that runs vertically through it that had to be cut with side cutters. The end of the hose passes through this hole and pulls ambient air through the driver’s door/fender gap.
Since I don’t use my under hood lamp, it seemed to be the perfect electrical line to use for the motor. The motor calls for an inline 5 amp fuse, just so happens that the hood lamp uses a 5 amp also.
The hose we used is a relatively inexpensive vacuum hose, since it won’t be exposed to extreme heat or weather elements. The fan can be found in most boat/marine stores and it’s the same fans that NASCAR teams use to cool their brakes.
We mounted an On/Off toggle switch to the fuse box compartment door (lower left dashboard) easy to reach from the driver’s seat. When switched on, the air comes through the hose into the end of the filter at 15.8 MPH (as measured with our anemometer) which should be good for the first 60 feet and then our air scoop will have enough air to continue the ram-air effect throughout the quarter mile.
Also, to clean up and seal the hose to fender section, we stretched a section of our black filter to fender foam over the flex hose, it sealed up nicely. Lastly, we used Silicone to seal all around the hose and insulation baffle.
The same thing can be done with 3” hose and a 3” motor. The only difference is that the CFM of the 3” motor is 138 but the velocity doubles raising the MPH of the air to nearly 30.
Not a bad inexpensive mod, ya think?
Cliff, I still haven't given up on brakes, they are next.
Tim
Last edited by Chikenears; 11-23-2005 at 07:43 PM.
#3
Originally Posted by LatemodelRacer2
just a added bit these fans can be bought used at place in charllote for like 20 bucks a pop. they are used ones of race cars.
I've found them on the web, new, for less than $25, Detmar # 7-5-1 four inch and # 7-5-4 three inch. The hose we used was about $18 but you have to buy 10 foot lengths, I found it at hartvilletool.com.
We're not selling these, it a freeby, we just did the leg work. But, we do have a few new motors that we can sell pretty cheap. Buying 10 at a time, we got a decent discount.
Happy Thanksgiving everybody!!
Tim