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How to check the oil correctly?

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  #16  
Old 11-29-2005 | 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Thor01
Unless you have a deep sump pan there is no reason to run more than the recomended amount. Two reasons to this: 1. You are robbing your engine of HP. 2. You are taking a chance on breaking the lower end of your engine.

We do not have windage trays in our stock pans. If you launch you L from a dead stop and accelerate, the oil moves back and the crank slaps the oil, adding resistance. Depending on how many qts you have added.

Ever take you hand when in the pool or lake and slap the water to splash someone. It stops your hand and is the same thing your crank is experiencing in the pan. The more your hand cuts into the water the greater the resistance. This resistance shocks the crank and is possible of creating stress fractures resulting in your crank turning into two parts. If the crank doesn't break it will have an effect on bearing life.

It would be easy to see the hp loss on a chassis or engine dyno. I have always run mine at 5qts. I drained my oil the day I brought my truck home. Added the 5qts and marked the dipstick. My 01 L's rwhp dyno results after 1200 miles were 355hp, 423ft.lbs of torque. This is one of the reasons early on when the L's were in production we were seeing a large difference in RW dyno numbers on stock trucks same MY. It was an engineer in SVT when I was working at Ford that gave me the heads up on not overfilling the engine oil.

I think maybe the countless durabiltiy hours testing on the dyno and multiple engine teardowns gave them the reason for just wanting the customer to add 6qts.

If the stick isn't reading right. Do your oil change and add 6 Qts. Start your engine and let it run for five minutes. Turn off wait 2 minutes for it to drain into the pan. Pull the stick and mark it. Next oil change you can put a second mark for 5 like I did.

It will not hurt the engine to run 5qts and race at the track. I have over 70 1/4 track runs and many street races. Stock the truck ran 13.53 @ 103mph and has only gone faster with the mods and still 5qts in the pan. Take this for what it's worth.

7qts is not good for our modular motors.

 
  #17  
Old 11-30-2005 | 02:15 AM
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Tips from a Lube-tech

Hey all, my two cents here, I started my ASE career as a Lube tech for Ford and I learned right away that overfilling the modulars is a BAD idea. ..anywhere in the middle of the dip stick is fine, after startup, but check in the morning when dead-cold to be sure it's not over the Max or Full line. Adjust accordingly. I'm not sure about the 5 quarts that are mentioned previously, but the "water scooping" description explains it well. Don't make your crankshaft move through all that oil. You lose horsepower that way, and it's harder on the bottom end. Good luck, and I'll check mine again to see where it is.
 
  #18  
Old 11-30-2005 | 09:36 AM
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Thor...

Great explaination about the oil!!!

This is the first logical explaination of had from anyone on why not to fill it like you normally would.

I just changed my oil yesterday to store it for the winter. I think when I pull it back out in the spring and change the oil, I'll follow your recommendation unless other imformation comes up on why I shouldn't.

Great Post!!!
 
  #19  
Old 11-30-2005 | 10:09 AM
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From: Shelton, Connecticut
It was a great post.
My father had a 2003 Screw FX4 and was dead set on the fact that it took 7 quarts, every oil change I would tell him NO, he wouldn't listen. I would put 6 QTs in and then he would go and put in another on. It was funny actually. -Mat-
 
  #20  
Old 11-30-2005 | 02:46 PM
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Thor,?

Hey Thor, you said that you took your truck home, drained it, and added 5 quarts. Does this mean that you left what was in the oil filter, or do you change your oil, and filter, and ONLY put in 5 quarts PERIOD? This would make a difference. Thanks, BK
 
  #21  
Old 11-30-2005 | 11:06 PM
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From: Mi.
Originally Posted by bwkelley76
Hey Thor, you said that you took your truck home, drained it, and added 5 quarts. Does this mean that you left what was in the oil filter, or do you change your oil, and filter, and ONLY put in 5 quarts PERIOD? This would make a difference. Thanks, BK
bwkelley,

I drained the pan. Filled and installed a new filter. I poured the remaining oil from the quart into the filler location on the cam cover. Then added 4 additional quarts. The filter on the L is smaller than the FL-1A that takes a quart. My 5qt. mark was just about the middle, between add and full ( HOT).
You can fill it to 5.5qts. I was fine with being a full quart under.

One other thing I didn't mention on my last post. To those that might be newly pre-owned L owners, and new members here.....It's not good to race at a roll where the engine downshifts. This sudden change in RPM's causes our weak azz rods to break. Stress will find the weak area on our rods and do it in. If you do it enough over the usage of your truck it's not a matter of if, just when!

Many here have read the horror stories of L owners losing their engines entering the e-way or racing it from a roll. Some thinking it might have been a bad tune. If the rods didn't have a problem, Ford wouldn't have gone through the added expense to put H-beam rods in the 03-04 cobra engines. Lesson learned in warrenty paid out to the L owners.

The chances increase if you have mods that have added Torque.
Two reasons I always, I mean, always race from a dead dig. 1. It was to my advantage using the torque with the 3.73 gears. 2. The engine RPM's increased gradualy. Fast, but in no way a shock to the rods. Taking an engine from a steady state RPM to a sudden shock will produce catostrophic results.

I look back and wonder, how many tuners on here were blamed for engines breaking when it was the stock rods.

Unless you have aftermarket H-beam rods, tell your next victim you only race from a light. If their were any skill from racing at a roll the IHRA & NHRA would have additional tracks to race that way.


 
  #22  
Old 11-30-2005 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Thor01
One other thing I didn't mention on my last post. To those that might be newly pre-owned L owners, and new members here.....It's not good to race at a roll where the engine downshifts. This sudden change in RPM's causes our weak azz rods to break. Stress will find the weak area on our rods and do it in. If you do it enough over the usage of your truck it's not a matter of if, just when!

Many here have read the horror stories of L owners losing their engines entering the e-way or racing it from a roll. Some thinking it might have been a bad tune. If the rods didn't have a problem, Ford wouldn't have gone through the added expense to put H-beam rods in the 03-04 cobra engines. Lesson learned in warrenty paid out to the L owners.

The chances increase if you have mods that have added Torque.
Two reasons I always, I mean, always race from a dead dig. 1. It was to my advantage using the torque with the 3.73 gears. 2. The engine RPM's increased gradualy. Fast, but in no way a shock to the rods. Taking an engine from a steady state RPM to a sudden shock will produce catostrophic results.

I look back and wonder, how many tuners on here were blamed for engines breaking when it was the stock rods.

Unless you have aftermarket H-beam rods, tell your next victim you only race from a light. If their were any skill from racing at a roll the IHRA & NHRA would have additional tracks to race that way
Wow I do kickdowns all the time! And what happens if you're racing a road course you gotta be on and off the gas at times? I just can't imagine the motor being "that" weak for the stock power.
 
  #23  
Old 12-01-2005 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Thor01
. . . If the rods didn't have a problem, Ford wouldn't have gone through the added expense to put H-beam rods in the 03-04 cobra engines. Lesson learned in warrenty paid out to the L owners.
Pure speculation.

The most logical reason for H-beams in the Cobra is significantly higher RPMs. The stress on a rod is greatest coming DOWN from TDC.

Originally Posted by Thor01
. . . The chances increase if you have mods that have added Torque.
Two reasons I always, I mean, always race from a dead dig. 1. It was to my advantage using the torque with the 3.73 gears. 2. The engine RPM's increased gradualy. Fast, but in no way a shock to the rods. Taking an engine from a steady state RPM to a sudden shock will produce catostrophic results. . .


1. In my book, idle is "steady state RPMs."
2. There is a viscous coupling between the engine and the wheels.
3. The stress on a rod is greatest coming DOWN from TDC.
4. Bad tunes break rods, not bad drivers.
 
  #24  
Old 12-01-2005 | 03:08 AM
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Subject Change?

LOL. funny how the subject can change so fast. I've heard this before about shocking rods but here's my two cents... The rolls, and the kick-downs are sometimes unavoidable on the street and during Motorcross races, and it's where the Lightning is the most fun. If I'm gonna blow a rod, then I'm gonna blow one. I bought the truck to have fun and enjoy the feel of the torque. It's kinda like telling a race car driver to NOT SPEEDSHIFT the tranny because it's hard on the synchros...LOL Yep, the rods arent' that strong, and it's a chance we all take. I'm not gonna change my driving habbits and not enjoy the torque to its fullest. I hope to have a built block ready someday anyway. Sure, it's good advice for those of us that are wanting to conserve. Just my two-cents, take it for what it's worth. BK
 
  #25  
Old 12-01-2005 | 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Thor01
7qts is not good for our modular motors.





Wow, I got called names last time I said that. lmao!
 
  #26  
Old 12-02-2005 | 01:05 AM
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From: Mi.
[QUOTE=Tim Skelton]Pure speculation.

The most logical reason for H-beams in the Cobra is significantly higher RPMs. The stress on a rod is greatest coming DOWN from TDC.


Well if it isn't the (almost) "Infamous" Tim Skelton. I felt this thread had some validity when I signed off. Not now! Yeah Tim, we all know you know something about cars,trucks,tanks,plumbing and mexican food. Before you go motioning for a mistrial on the grounds of pure speculation; get a job at Ford and then try your case.

Fact: I have 13 years in Ford Powertrain.
Fact: I had access to vital facilities and data.

The rods can't possibly have an alleged manufacturing flaw.
The 99/00 Intercooler leak and 99/02MYself launching spark plugs weren't a manufacturing flaw. That was just a small oversight by those suppliers providing quality parts..

Tim, your a knowledgable guy...You being a Lawyer should know," opinions are like a@#holes. Everyones got one." Only the people on the inside know the truth.

Bound by a confidentiality agreement, I can't give exact details on who, what & when. I'm sure you're familiar with them in your line of work.

I said my opinion on the rods allegedly being weak and susceptible to sudden change in relation to RPM. There are other variables and conditions that find that alleged flaw in the rod. Sorry! Can't provide the data, It doesn't change that fact what I know.

It's amazing that a smart guy like you would think that the "only" logical explination for H-beam rods is RPM! That's right! You didn't see the numbers on warranty cost at my last mandatory meeting at WHQ.

I'm sure the beancounters were happy to have added the cost of H-beam rods to the total production cost of the vehicle, cutting into the profits. By June of 2003, Ford was just getting killed in warranty claims.

The Terminator program was just underway when Ford began to see a good number of warranty issues with the Lightnings. Ford installed manley rods in the 4.6L cobra to make sure the engine could actualy meet and exceed the projected durability numbers. "Not" for people adding mods to make 500+hp with a/m parts. Ford isn't that generous when it comes to it's customers.

If that were the case Ford would have been way more lenient on warranty denials. I think I read somewhere on another board that a Cobra owner lost their warranty du to Fuzzy Dice on the r.v.mirror..

If there wasn't an alleged issue with the manufacturing process of the current 4.6L rod making durability, Ford would have used it to save on cost.

Yeah! It's all specualtion!
 

Last edited by Thor01; 12-02-2005 at 01:11 AM.
  #27  
Old 12-02-2005 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Thor01
Fact: I have 13 years in Ford Powertrain.
Fact: I had access to vital facilities and data.

. . . Only the people on the inside know the truth.

Bound by a confidentiality agreement, I can't give exact details on who, what & when. I'm sure you're familiar with them in your line of work.

. . . Sorry! Can't provide the data, It doesn't change that fact what I know. . .
Yeah, I come across confidentiality agreements all the time in my line of work. But when someone starts testifying about things within the scope of the agreement, they have opened the door and then may be compelled to spill the beans. It's only fair - the other side should not have to argue against a phantom. I won't even try.

Originally Posted by Thor01
. . .
It's amazing that a smart guy like you would think that the "only" logical explination for H-beam rods is RPM! . . .
I guess reading comprehension is not part of the Ford training program.

I said "The most logical reason for H-beams." Based on numerous thorough discussions of the issue on these boards for several years, I stand behind that statement.
 



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