Well it seems obvious that those cylinders got very hot to melt a piston. Running too lean will cause a HOT cylinder.

Out of curiousity, what exhaust do you have? headers? stock manifolds?

OVer the years I've noticed that those rear cylinders are generally the ones that go bad if extreme heat is an issue, such as here. If it has to do with lack of coolant, running too lean, stock exhaust manifolds, running too hot a plug.
Heck the head could've ben warped and caused extreme heat in a vert short period of time.

 

i think the gasket would have blown if it was over heated,,,it was fuel starved

 

The injectors have been checked and were installed less than 6k miles ago. Believe me, most everything on this truck is brand new. I have spent 22k on it in the last 6 mths. Race motor, race trans, o2 alert system, nitrous progressive system, sct xcalabrator 2, coil over front suspension, injectors, fuel pumps (twice) etc, etc.

 

I have LFP long tube headers, no cats and bassani exhaust. The coolant was new and topped off to proper levels. The plugs are TR6's. The heads were special race heads done by Crower, stage 3 cams, larger valves, port and polished, and ceramic coated on the bottoms. The pistons were also ceramic coated. Believe me, I spared no expense. This was a complete long block race motor that was built by a very reputable engine builder that you guys would know of and trust.

 

That seems to be the consensus. Let me add here that I have the utmost respect for the tuning abilities of this tuner. He has always given me great tunes in the past. My stock motor with a 50 shot of n2o across the intercooler ran 11.5 ET's consistently. I'm not flaming anyone here, just trying to learn what caused this extreme melt down of my motor.

 

Thanks again for all of the replies gentlemen. I've gotten similiar replies on the other boards that I posted the same thread on. I'm very appreciative of all the responses. My engine builder emailed me some pics last night and I'll need to figure out how to post them up here for you to see. I'll try to post them up when I get home from work tonight.

 

BTW, I am not ignoring cardealr. I am communicating with him directly.

Cardealr's engine builder knows mod motors like nobody's business. His autopsy will undoubtedly shed more light on the subject.

 

Yes, and thanks Tim. You have been very helpful on so many occassions and am looking forward to your advice on this matter as well.

 

Tim skelton is prolly to busy looking for little ghey pictures to post under people threads all over the boards.

 

Allow me again if ya don't mind.

 

That pic almost looks like a cold seizure of a forged piston, I dont really know doo-doo about these motors but on a 2 stroke bike when the bore-piston clearance isnt sufficient and not enough warmup is allowed they will do that, kinda weird it dint melt the top of the piston tho.

 

Thanks for posting the pics for me Erik!

Let me point out though that something has been overlooked. I should of brought this up earlier.

I have had 3 problems with this motor since it was built. The first being a solid lifter on #6 cylinder losing it's adjustment causing the fowler to rotate and scar one of the cams. All the lifters were replaced with hydraulic lifters and the cam replaced as well. While still at the tuners shop after the above repair was completed it broke a valve spring during warm up awaiting to go on the dyno on the #2 cylinder. The truck was hauled back to the engine builder, the engine was removed and the heads were taken off. Both heads were redone per my request because I wasn't feeling to "happy" about the broken spring thing. While the heads were off, the builder had some additional port work done on them and had them ceramic coated. I'm sure you have already figured this out, but the pistons were visible with the heads off and they were perfectly fine. The engine was then reassembled and installed. The tune was checked by the builder that night using his wide band before we drove it home. My wife and I returned home at 6:30am Saturday morning. The truck was then driven out to an event, about a 100 mile trip on Sunday. It was returned to the garage where it stayed until it was taken to back to the tuner the following Tuesday morning for the tuning. So we have viewed this motor internally since the initial build and just prior to the latest castasrophy.

 

Just my opinion, but you might want the builder to be there during the dyno, or have the builder place the motor on a dyno before you put it in the truck to check his work and build credibility within himself to sell sell sell ie... his work. No?

 

Wow, sounds like you've been through a lot. Was it a Crower spring that broke? If so, that would be 2 now and indicative of a serious quality issue.

#7 cylinder generally runs the hottest. Looks like you had detonation. Notice the errosion by the plug? It doesn't take much detonation to cause problems and it's not always audible.

 

It was a Crower spring but I don't know if that's indicative of a quality issue. I've had real good luck with their stuff in the past. I've got the dyno sheets now. I'll see if my buddy Erik, Tucsonpred, can post them up for me on here.