Built motor Q's
#16
I have to disagree about the cams
with the right tune and those stage 2 cams, it can be made to idle and drive just like a stock motor, but just faster.
I can idle mine all day and you would never know I have aftermarket cams in mine. Though I do have 55# injectors, and the sct mass air meter, maybee that is why mine idles so well.
with the right tune and those stage 2 cams, it can be made to idle and drive just like a stock motor, but just faster.
I can idle mine all day and you would never know I have aftermarket cams in mine. Though I do have 55# injectors, and the sct mass air meter, maybee that is why mine idles so well.
#17
I had the Stg2 Crowers at one time and they really didn't idle that ruff at all; not even when I brought the idle down trying to make them "chop" a little more.
Now the Stg3 Comp's I have once idled down are pretty ruff. They shake the truck at idle and have a very nice lope to them. I can bump the idle up and it helps a lot, but it's still there. Right now I'm letting it lope; especially since I have a daily driver.
Now the Stg3 Comp's I have once idled down are pretty ruff. They shake the truck at idle and have a very nice lope to them. I can bump the idle up and it helps a lot, but it's still there. Right now I'm letting it lope; especially since I have a daily driver.
#20
Don,
Maybe my memory is slipping but I talked to Jim about a built motor in the past mentioning that I wanted a smoother idle than Dealerjim's truck even it meant going with lesser cams. Jim said that could be accomplished with more of a 116 degree lobe seperation like he used in your truck because you wanted a smoother idle. Correct me if I'm wrong about any of that but that was the conversation I had with Jim.
With the lobe seperation being 116 vs 112 or 113 you get a smoother idle but you give up a little HP.
There is nothing smooth about the idle of the Crower stage II cams at anything close to normal idle speeds. Idling at 1000 rpms might smooth them out a lot but I would say (for me anyway) that would cut into the daily drivability.
Maybe my memory is slipping but I talked to Jim about a built motor in the past mentioning that I wanted a smoother idle than Dealerjim's truck even it meant going with lesser cams. Jim said that could be accomplished with more of a 116 degree lobe seperation like he used in your truck because you wanted a smoother idle. Correct me if I'm wrong about any of that but that was the conversation I had with Jim.
With the lobe seperation being 116 vs 112 or 113 you get a smoother idle but you give up a little HP.
There is nothing smooth about the idle of the Crower stage II cams at anything close to normal idle speeds. Idling at 1000 rpms might smooth them out a lot but I would say (for me anyway) that would cut into the daily drivability.
#23
I have a built motor, Stage II heads & cams, KB, and all the goodies putting about 590 to the street. I have 60# injectors, twin 255 pumps, and the stock MAF has been extended. Mine is a little lumpy at idle and is kind of rough when cold also. But, I love driving it on the street. I think the only thing I would change about my set-up is the cams. They perform great and lope good, but I just have a weird feeling about how high the lift is. If I had it to do again, I would go with Comp Cams instead of high lift Crowers...
#24
I agree on keeping the lift down; under 550 is what I would look for.
If you have trouble when it's cold; it's more than likely a tune issue. I worked through a bunch of them on mine, and still have a few little things to work out. Dyno tunes usually don't cover driveability issues like that at all. They just focus on WOT and maybe they will get the idle working half way decent.
If you have trouble when it's cold; it's more than likely a tune issue. I worked through a bunch of them on mine, and still have a few little things to work out. Dyno tunes usually don't cover driveability issues like that at all. They just focus on WOT and maybe they will get the idle working half way decent.
#25
Originally Posted by LTNBOLT
SVT150 (Mat) made the comment that he felt like he had finally went too far when he caged his. Needless to say he sold it.
If it wasn't for that my truck would be sitting in the garage right now.
The motor was fine for the street and I think that was proven by my truck getting driven down to Florida. -Mat-
#27
I don't want to be misleading about the big cams and drivability. Like I said I rode in Dealerjim's truck with both cams old stage II and the new grind. Jim@JDM had the tunes perfect on both grinds. There was no quirkiness off idle or anywhere else for that matter. Other than idle, it was smooth as silk. I think there are several people out there that have tuning problems with the big cams. I know I've read enough threads about it on the forums.
Jimmy's idle according to him is 850 rpm. It has a sweet lope (shakes the truck) to it but way more than "I" would want in a daily driver. He says it smooths out more at 950 rpm but that's about 300 rpm over the stock idle. A lot of people would love the lope forever and some will get tried of it down the road.
This thread started with John saying he was getting tired of his truck because of drivability. I think his main problem is the Pro-M before anything else. At his age you think he might like a thumping cam (I know I would have at 19-20 years old). I answered with the main reasons I think alot of the built motor trucks wind up for sale after a few months or a year.
I guess the older you get the more comfort you want before blowing the doors off unsuspecting prey in the other lane.
Jimmy's idle according to him is 850 rpm. It has a sweet lope (shakes the truck) to it but way more than "I" would want in a daily driver. He says it smooths out more at 950 rpm but that's about 300 rpm over the stock idle. A lot of people would love the lope forever and some will get tried of it down the road.
This thread started with John saying he was getting tired of his truck because of drivability. I think his main problem is the Pro-M before anything else. At his age you think he might like a thumping cam (I know I would have at 19-20 years old). I answered with the main reasons I think alot of the built motor trucks wind up for sale after a few months or a year.
I guess the older you get the more comfort you want before blowing the doors off unsuspecting prey in the other lane.
#28
Originally Posted by LTNBOLT
This thread started with John saying he was getting tired of his truck because of drivability. I think his main problem is the Pro-M before anything else. At his age you think he might like a thumping cam (I know I would have at 19-20 years old). I answered with the main reasons I think alot of the built motor trucks wind up for sale after a few months or a year.
#29
Get a SCT MAF, and get it tuned good and you will be happy with the truck again. Mine doesn't have those problems at all. But it did take more than just those few things. I also had to open the throttle blade a little(the cams need more air flow than the IAC valve can compensate for) Play with spark tables down low and such.
#30
Originally Posted by SVT F15O
Yeah, the bar is the reason I sold my truck.
If it wasn't for that my truck would be sitting in the garage right now.
The motor was fine for the street and I think that was proven by my truck getting driven down to Florida. -Mat-
If it wasn't for that my truck would be sitting in the garage right now.
The motor was fine for the street and I think that was proven by my truck getting driven down to Florida. -Mat-