Removed bed and changed fuel pumps...pics inside.
#16
Originally Posted by Odin's Wrath
My pumps were changed this weekend as well. The tank was dropped with the truck on stands. Pumps installed. The tank was jacked back into place and re-attached. It took a little over an hour; and, no damage was done to the vehicle. The tank was half full, too. This way is much easier and quicker than removing the bed. No need for that... Unless you're going to clean the frame, I guess.
Easy job even with a half full tank.
#17
Hangers coulda been easier but its not bad once you figure out something that works for you.
and would have been nice to have the shims i needed when i had everything tore down and have access to the correct tools. If you dont have a longer bolt that goes through all of your leaf springs, well it also goes right through the bottom of the shim, and if you ad in a thicker shim, it gets really complicated to get the nut started threading. Then again i was doing it on my garage floor by myself only using my truck's factory bottle jack. And if you choose to try to leave your factory shim in there too, you will more then likely also need longer U bolts.
And i stand corrected. I crawled under my truck and there is only one disconnect. I was confused for a min. then i figured out what i was looking at. One side has the main wires running inside the frame, and splits to go to trailer wiring, and then the rest goes to the connector. The connector runs to tails, license plate lights. And when you unplug it, the bed can get pulled up away from the frame set of wires, again you have to unseat the license plate lights, but yea....
And this is comparing how much of the factory rivet is left compared to the bolt that was replacing it. (Grade 8 bolts / Hardware)
Each one of those heads, was a seperate rivet.... 4 rivets shown
-Patrick
and would have been nice to have the shims i needed when i had everything tore down and have access to the correct tools. If you dont have a longer bolt that goes through all of your leaf springs, well it also goes right through the bottom of the shim, and if you ad in a thicker shim, it gets really complicated to get the nut started threading. Then again i was doing it on my garage floor by myself only using my truck's factory bottle jack. And if you choose to try to leave your factory shim in there too, you will more then likely also need longer U bolts.
And i stand corrected. I crawled under my truck and there is only one disconnect. I was confused for a min. then i figured out what i was looking at. One side has the main wires running inside the frame, and splits to go to trailer wiring, and then the rest goes to the connector. The connector runs to tails, license plate lights. And when you unplug it, the bed can get pulled up away from the frame set of wires, again you have to unseat the license plate lights, but yea....
And this is comparing how much of the factory rivet is left compared to the bolt that was replacing it. (Grade 8 bolts / Hardware)
Each one of those heads, was a seperate rivet.... 4 rivets shown
-Patrick
Last edited by Patman; 04-20-2006 at 01:23 AM.
#18
crap
And i stand corrected. I crawled under my truck and there is only one disconnect. I was confused for a min. then i figured out what i was looking at. One side has the main wires running inside the frame, and splits to go to trailer wiring, and then the rest goes to the connector. The connector runs to tails, license plate lights. And when you unplug it, the bed can get pulled up away from the frame set of wires, again you have to unseat the license plate lights, but yea....
What year is your truck...03?
Mine is a 2000, #621. Maybe they changed them??
#19