Thats what I've been contemplating these past few months. About to pull the trigger but I keep thinking about the test drive of the *gasp* Toyota X-Runner *gasp*. Underpowered v6, but they weren't exagerating about the way that truck handles.

 

It may handle like a slot car, but damn it's ugly. Looks like it was designed by high school kids from some Third World country.

 

I read a test on that truck. They added a bunch of stuff from TuRD including Toyo RA-1 tires and a big front brake kit. If I remember correctly the stock rear brakes are drum and the front are certainly not performance oriented. Add RA-1s and a brake kit to any vehicle and will handle pretty good but that vehicle unlike the Lightning is certainly not track ready from the factory.

The only item that sets this vehicle apart is a simple frame brace. A corner rear brace in the rear and another one that corner braces the cross member under the cab. We may have something to emulate there. Certainly wouldn't sell a Lightning for that.

 

Hey thats what we're all here for. Great gathering of info. on spring rubbers.

I've used the same approach for the rear. As you know, the rear has much to do with ride quality. Put high rate springs and stiff shocks and you have a hay wagon.

I would be concerned about de-arching. It could take several tries to get the desired ride height and if one side is slightly different, you could easily end up with a .5 inch difference on one side. (which would drive me crazy).

So I have kept the stock springs with poly bushings and Western Chassis front hangers and 2" shackles. With that set up you will need 6 degree shims. I couldn't believe the difference in traction that this new angle provided. Ruslow panhard bar, QA-1's with heim and Hellwig rear bar. But the thing that really gives me flexibility is the Hellwig traction springs. Certainly low tech but darn it works. These fit on the front half of the stock spring and as you tighten them, the spring rate is significantly increased. So at the track, I crank them to the max and its like putting a high rate spring. If you carry stuff, they give you higher load capacity. They can increase rear ride height by as much as 3/4" and significantly reduce axle wrap and improve traction. Not bad for a measly $60. This one is exclusive to JC Whitney but Summit has their version that seems a bit sturdier for about $35.

So that's my all around set up that gives me a solid feel on the street, enables be to tow and allows me to embarass quite a few "sports cars" at the track. That's why I love this truck!

TB

 

TB
That is the exact setup for my rear i will be running, except also got socal shock extenders. Do you have any pics of your install( i am like Tim, lost without pics!)
where did you buy the 6 degree shims?

Tim / TB great post, very informative.

 

Yes I have the extenders too but I will need to either modify them or reposition the bracket on the axle. I want to have the shocks sit exactly at 60% of extension on both sides. I also considered eliminating the staggered set up (which make the truck corner slightly better on one side) but I have scrapped that idea. The benefits outweigh the small drawback.

The shims and hangers were purchased from Sports truck direct.

Halflife. What pictures do you want?

I am really pleased with the results. After some trial and error, this is my final set up. Now I want to just drive it and have fun.

On the track my RA-1s drop the truck over 1 full inch. It all works great.

We should exchange ideas on a frame brace and how to reduce turbulence with some shielding under the vehicle.

TB

 

just some pics of the install if you have them.
thanks for the info.

 

why not use RUSLOW rear sliders instead of shackles

 

Half,
When I have it up in the air, I never think of taking pictures. If you need something in particular, I could try to get it for you. I will take a few in the next 2 weeks when I re-position the shock mounts. Other people have more pictures of my truck than I have...

Pit,
When I discussed this with STan, he talked me out of it because of the racket they make on the street. A solid shackle with poly and panhard bar does a pretty good job along with poly on the springs. Also, the sliders give you a fixed ride height compared to shackles. The stock shackles are 4" center to center. 2" shackles are 6" or 7".(two settings) I drilled mine at 5". Every inch on the shackles give you 0.4" in ride height.

Have you got the sliders?

TB

 

Actually after test driving it, I'd say stock for stock it handles better then Lightning. It definately needs the big brake kit in the front though. The thing that turned me off to it is the engine, a 4.0l v6 thats roughly half the power of my lightning yet only gets 2-4mpg better.

As for looks, honestly how many trucks out there have the curves and sleekness of the Lightning.





Anyone thought about running a flip kit for the rear with the taller rear springs from the 03'(?) & up models so the drop isn't to severe?

 

Trackbeast.......I do not have the sliders yet but i say Racket Smacket I will be going with Stans sliders i think its not just the lowering i am after....it really smoothes out the action of the rear leafs and reduces the stress on the panhard bar by giving the panhard less slack to deal with...and it reduces the parts count for the rear suspension....less parts = less things to break

 

TB, I will be emulating your setup, with just a few minor revisions.

I would love to try the Hellwig clamps, but need to find a way to make them work with helper airbags. Looks like they will fight for the same leaf real estate.

I am going to remove the PHB for now (going to install the TA diff cover). I am going to make some jigs and clamp them to the axle near the frame and adjust them inward until the deflection on cornering causes them to leave marks on the frame. Someone needs to actually measure this deflection that we all talk about.

I'd Win has CE traction bars that you can't slip a credit card in between the axle mounts and the frame, and he has not experienced any rubbing, meaning that the axle cannot be moving at all. I know that every setup is different, that race tires may cause movement that street tires can't, and I also know that the PHB does more than just stop side-to-side movement (whether these effects are intended or not). But it needs to be more carefully researched.

In essence, I'm going to start from scratch experiment some more. Some things have to be installed in combinations, but I am going to and try to take the time to evaluate each change this time.

 

Based on what? Did you get an overdose of happy gas at the dentist?

I would be surprised if there were any deflection of the springs with sliders and urethane bushings.

And less things to squeak, groan, and pop.

 

This is a very interesting thread.

Pit, You are building quite the truck. I look forward to your comments on the sliders. You are making some major changes to your truck. Don't forget to get some seat time between mods to gauge where you are heading. Better yet some track time would be useful.

Tim,
Are you bags installed? If you have a picture, I can tell you if the traction springs will fit. If you are installing bags in conjunction with your traction bars, I would skip on the traction springs. (Some of the benefits are already taken care of) And everything is added weight.

Why have you chosen the TA cover? You already had a nice cover.

In the corners, the race tires give you 3X the traction. Last year, before the Hellwig bar, I was lifting the inside rear tire 6" off the ground. Some were taking bets that I was going to flip it over. Too bad they were disappointed.

Taking your time is the best approach. I look forward to your comments.

TB

 

How do you like the Western Chassis hangers as opposed to the Belltech hangers?