I'll try.

Burnouts for F1s - Don't. Just spin them enough to get the water off of them and go. No excessive spin necessary. Invest in a set of DRs on 16 inch rims ASAP, though.

Staging - There are 2 sets of what look like upside down yellow household light bulbs. These work in conjunction with two beams on the ground by the front of your truck. (You will see the box on the ground just "this side" of the tree). Pull up slowly and break the first beam. The top bulb will light. Let your opponent do the same. Now pull up and break the second beam (about 6" up). Once you and the guy you are running have broken both beams, the computer knows that it can start to drop the (3 yellow and one green) lights. Your best bet is to NOT follow the lights all the way down the tree. Pick out the 3rd yellow (one above the green) and focus on it only. Block everything else out. When it starts to think about lighting up, roll your foot into the gas (do not "hammer," or you will spin badly) and keep it on the floor. Look at your reaction time and adjust your launch accordingly. Any .5XX is GOOD.

Depending on how early you get to the track (and how many cars are there) you will get to make a bunch of "Test and Tune" runs. These are "heads up" (both sets of lights drop at the same time and the fastest car wins). Make as many passes as you feel comfortable with. You should see your times settle in to a specific range. You can now set your dial-in. You just have to remember to pay attention to the temp both outside and of your truck, as these will affect your times. I usually look at my fastest time and drop that by about 0.02-0.03 to account for a cooler truck and about a 10 degree drop in atmoshperic temp. After one elimination run (after my truck has been sitting for 30 mins and is cool) I usually adjust my time accordingly. You will just have to experiment and see what works for you.

Bracket racing is all about consistency. The single most important thing to do is CUT GOOD LIGHTS! If your dial in is reasonably close, you should win almost every time if you cut a 0.65 light or better. The slower car will get a handicap (leave early) and the other will play "catch-up." Being in the L, we usually leave last. At first it is hard as hell to sit and watch the other guy leave you, but you will soon develop confidence in the power of the L and the "I'm-being-left-in-the-dust-and-I-need-to-catch-this-guy-and-REDLIGHT!" factor will go away. The main thing is to focus on your light and let the truck do the work. That's why we paid $31 grand, ain't it.

I hope I've covered everything. If anyone has anything to change or add, go for it. You won't hurt my feelings at all.

Good luck!

DUCK

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November 18, 1999 We will not forget.
The fallen 12 will live in our hearts forever.
Fightin' Texas Aggie Bonfire 1999




[This message has been edited by DUCK01 (edited 09-16-2000).]

 

I put this together a while back, hope it helps. Tips page

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99 Lightning black, cd,tow package,bed rug,roll-n-lock
(13.73 @ 99.74 stock)
98 Cobra coupe laser red w/ 3.55 gears
(13.26 @ 104)
former Chevy fan still have a few
72 SS454 11.6 @ 116 (slicks open headers)
68 Camaro 12.2 @ 116 (street tires closed exhast)
e-mail
r454g@eriecoast.com

 

Here is one tip that works for me. I keep my left foot on the brake, and right foot on the gas. I give it either no gas, or very little while waiting for the light. As soon as I see the third light, I tromp on the gas whle simultaneously taking my left foot of the brake. I run at Norwalk where I've been told it is a very sticky track. I have had no problem with wheel spin. The last time out I had 1/4 tank of gas and took the spare tire off, and still no spin. So this technique may not work as well at your track if it is not as sticky. That's why the test and tune runs are so important.
Tom

 

Poohbear,

Drag racing is like craps. It seems confusing at first, but it's a simple game. Go to the track, watch how the other guys do it, and then get in there. It takes about 2 runs to feel comfortable.

Here's what I can add to the previous posts.

1) Drive around the water box. It is meant for cars with slicks, to make it easier to do a burnout.

2) If you want, back up to just in front of the water box, and do a quick spin of your tires. No brake torque, just spin 'em a bit. Most of the time, I don't even bother with this, unless I got water on my tires, or if I picked up dirt/mud from the pits.

3) Don't brake torque to launch w/ F1s. Just launch from idle. How hard you can tromp it is a function of the track.

Like Tom G. said, Norwalk hooks up very well. My local track, Milan, is like a snow-covered road. The difference in launch and ETs is night and day.

4) Don't tell any of the greasy-looking guys w/ tattoos and sleevless shirts that your name is Poohbear.



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Regards,
Gordon

'99 Red Lightning
Johnny Lightning Superchip
Pro-M 80mm MAF
Century Tonneau

Injection is nice, but I'd rather be blown.

 

Short history: Never run on a track before

I would like to take my new L to the local track (Maryland International) to see what it can do (mid-life is starting I think). They have a street car midnight madness event on Fridays.

I have a couple of questions. If anyone knows of some sites that offer VERY basic info I would appreciate the help.

The questions are basic howdoIs, for instance:

Do I burnout the F1s to heat them up? I read the FAQ (slicks only) but how does it work on stock F1s? Dread smelling $100.00 worth of rubber burning if it's not helping me...

I am guessing that once you get into the staging lanes you get on the track, the tower enters your dial in, you do the burnout?, line up, is there a light or something to let you know when your staged (they use CompuTrak) the tree hits green and you floor it and go like a bat till the end then brake it down?

I assume you do a couple of runs prior to eliminations to determine the dial in but do you use the fastest time as the dial in?

Since you may be running next to a faster ride is the aim to keep consistent times (is this brackets?)

I know, a lot of basic, low level questions but everyone has to start this obsession somewhere


TIA for any info


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2000 L (the fast color)
After being struck by Lightnin' life just ain't the same

 

Once again, great response from a great community of people! Gotta love this board.

All of the info helped a lot.

I think the dial in is the only thing that has me confused a little still. Is the point to set the dial in slightly faster (lower ET) than the truck can do so you don't "brak out"? Then just beat the other guy while keeping consistent times and not beating your dial-in? (I can be kinda' slow)

98_SVT:

The link was very helpful...

Duck01

Great info, now I think I understand the tree and handicaps. So when I roll from the third yellow it will be green before I cross the actual start... (BTW did you ever live in Long Beach, Ca)?

Bad_Dog:

Great tips! Especially the one about the big greasy lookin guys (wife got a kick outta that one even though SHE stuck me with the handle!) I will make sure to avoid the water box too.

The best info is to go and watch a little before I run and that I will definitly do but the itch is beggin' to be scratched :-O


Thanks again for all the help!!!




------------------
2000 L (the fast color)
After being struck by Lightnin' life just ain't the same

 

Poohbear, Go to www.smokemup.com They have a practice tree there. It will help You undrstand the tree better! Lots of other cool stuff there too. Good luck, Lloyd

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2000 Black L #2189. Airaid & Superchip. 1973 Cutlass Supreme 455/450HP 4 speed. Too many Mods to list! 95 Olds Aurora 91 S10 305/700r4 project 2000 freightliner FL60 Rollback tow truck 1989 Ford F450 Wrecker My garage overuneth

 

Poohbear-
Sorry. Never lived in CA. I was born in Houston, lived in Navasota (Texas) from day 3 'till 18, and I'm currently in College Station attending Texas A&M.

DUCK

------------------
November 18, 1999 We will not forget.
The fallen 12 will live in our hearts forever.
Fightin' Texas Aggie Bonfire 1999

 

Good luck at the track Poohbear, if this helps at all, I was once told, to pay attention to the green light, when you see it just about to spark inside hit the gas. <shrug> Don't know if it works at the track or not, but hell, I can beat ANYTHING off the line (street red light) in a V-6 Camaro (man.). Just by paying attention to see when that light is about to spark.

LSChicago

Thanks for that link, I've been playing with that tree (reaction timer) for awhile now. Best time, .4-- Don't know if that's good or not.

Marcus.