guys, i installed a new fuel filter, and yes believe me fuel was flowing like niagra falls once i took the filter off.. i also installed a new auto meter fuel preasure gauge, pumps sound normal dash is normal, but still no dam fuel preasure..
i even tried bypassing the resistor.. WTF is going on with my truck????
no my battery is dieing so i have the jumper box on it while starting it.. this is like the biggest mystery to me.. these 3 codes did pop up though:
P0230
P0232
P1000
i cleared the codes and the only one that popped back up was P1000..
any help guys would be again greatly appreciated..
Rich

 

Hi Rich

Ok

P0230 = Fuel pump relay driver fail
P0232 = Fuel pump relay driver circuit fail off

P1000 Monitor checks not complete, more driving required.
(thats a laugh cos if you could drive it we would not be posting about the problem)

Sounds to me like an ECU problem not allowing the relay to switch on power to the pumps, try by passing the fuel relay to see if pumps run and you get pressure.
Or you have a relay that has failed, so replace the relays anyway to be safe.

Anyway have a look at what is controlling the pumps, you may have a bad relay or a primary coil in the relay is down giving you the codes.

I am sure there will be someone on here who's knows a bit more about how the pump relays are controlled.

Best of luck buddy


Ricki - UK

 

thanks Rikki tomorrow will be another day to go at this..

 

DO THE BYPASS AND HEAR IT RUN : o )

Rich since you had the gas down the armpit going on when you changed the filter my first thought would also be ya your pumps are doing their job. Which means it does seem to point to the Computer itself, (I'll ask V as I said in the other post but I unfortunately think he sold it already @#$^%@()$%@)$%)@$ )
BUT why no pressure or fuel at the schrader valve ???
You can hear the pumps a puming, you saw fuel in the filter (BUT REMEMBER THAT COULD BE FROM THE FUEL RAIL AND LINE WHICH IS HIGHER AND WILL DRAIN DOWN WHEN DISCONNECTED)

I truly dont know our fuel systems "electronic's" enough to know for sure,
but both codes are talking "driver" and thats in the computer so again it points to that as the culprit, but if a line is off in the tank and the pumps a pumping NOTHING then for all I know (and I dont) maybe the codes are picking up a weird driver code. Or maybe the drivers are pulsing but sencing no flow and throwing a code, I REALLY DONT KNOW HOW THAT WOULD WORK ???

Will the pumps pump and build pressure without a signal from the computer ???

 

all i know is that there is still no preasure according to my gauge..

 

Try removing the relay and putting a jumper on the relay contacts to turn the pumps on.

The relay is under the hood in the fuse/relay box.
You will need to build a jumper by putting a male spade connector on both ends of a short piece of wire.

Remove the relay and install the jumper into terminals 30 and 87.
--------▬
87> l---l--▬ <30
--------▬

Ignore all the dashes, I tried spaces but they didn't work.

You should hear the pumps come on as soon as you plug in the jumper (turn on the key).

If you don't have pressure when you do this, you probably have a problem in the tank. (Hose off, f/u y connector, bad clamp)

Good luck

 

Here is a quick lesson on the wiring of the pumps.

Terminal 30 on the relay above is always hot.
When the relay is energized (by the PCM) current flows to terminal 87.
From there ,the current flows to the crash fuel shutoff relay and then to the fuel pumps.

On the ground side, the wiring goes from the fuel pumps to both the dropping resistor and then to ground and also to the fuel pump high/low relay and then ground.

When the high/low relay is off, voltage to the pumps is reduced by the resistor. When the relay is on (triggered by the PCM) full voltage goes to the pumps and they switch to high speed.

Hope all this helps you with your troubleshooting.

 

WOW now thats some great info Giant
There's way more going on with our fuel system than I would have ever guessed. Ah the good ole days when a SW Fuel Pump, a Regulator, and 2 wires was all you needed....

GREAT INFO

 

Hostile....
A few months ago I was having the same problem. It ended up being my ECU.

 

Sorry, I forgot to mention that the key must be on for the test above so that the crash fuel shutoff relay is energized.

 

guys, thank you for all your help.. it seems as though im still not getting preasure, so i jumped the pumps and they are workin as normal, while the pumps where running i opened the gas cap and to my surprise as RIKKI said i should try but didnt, i hear fuel sloshing around.. so now im gathering some buddies and gonna lift the bed and try to get this squared away.. does anyone know where i can get the stainless Y fitting just incase thats the problem??
Rich

 

Not that I would EVER recommend this, but when I was a young wipper snapper I use to street race a certain road that happen to be where all the car dealers were. Anytime I broke a Driveshaft, Universal, Distributor Cap, whatever (which was pretty much everynight with a Big Block Chevelle) I use to how you sat "borrow" the parts I needed .....

hehehehehe
Oh thats right your PD in waiting, NEVER MIND .....
I'd love to come help you Bro buy I'm REAL BUSY over here


Glad those pictures got you motivated, FIX IT TODAY BRO, YOU CAN DO IT...

 

I am pretty sure LFP has the 5/16" version of the stainless Y connector. (5/16" is the proper size).

The only commercial supplier that I found with the 5/16" fitting will not sell less than a $100 order.

I lucked out and got a free sample before they caught on that every Lightning owner who read a post about them giving them away was calling.

If LFP can't help, the 3/8" Y fitting is available from McMaster Carr ( http://www.mcmaster.com/ ). I bought a fitting from McMaster-Carr before I lucked out on the 5/16" fitting but I just looked and I couldn't find it anywhere on their web site.

I just found my receipt (now I know why I save all those old receipts) and the part number is 2653 K66. The price was 14.62 about a year ago.

 

If waiting for a stainless "Y" is not practical, you can build a workable solution with a brass T, an elbow, 3 barb fittings, and a short straight piece of 5/16 pipe.

 

Here's the LFP page.

http://lightningforceperformance.com...ndex&cPath=176

It was about $25.