Hey, I'm hammering out the speakers for my truck (headunit is next month), and I have a question about opinions for the rear speakers. I know the prices I'm getting are not the "best best", but they're not too bad and since I don't really "know" anyone in the car audio business, its what I have to go with.

$600 Phoenix Gold Amp Kit (XS2500/XS4300)
$200 2 10" Sony Xplod ES woofers
$150 Custom Sub Box
$370 PSC216 MBQuarts Reference Components

The XS2500 would power the woofers and the XS4300 would power the components.

What is a good choice for the rear-lower speakers? I was thinking either MBQuart DKC116's or Polk dx7's... They're so low and behind the seats I was wondering wether or not to really shell out the money for a pair of PKC116's or not.

[This message has been edited by thepawn (edited 10-25-2000).]

 

pawn... if you're interested in a real nice 6-channel amp (to drive all the speakers), email me.

araja@kestrelsolutions.com

 

Maybe I've been out of the Game too long but if you're gonna run Phoenix Gold and MB Quarts, Then Why Sony Subs?????. I would use JL or something.

Like I said, I might have been out of the game too long

 

Nah, you're right, they're not quite the same level as the other stuff, but unfortunately at the moment, I'm running out of money. I figure I'll just run the Sony's for a bit then when I get the extra bucks sell the Sony's to my friend and pick up some JL's.

Daniel

 

Since y'all already started the thread.....

I just got a JL Audio W6 10" and am looking for an amp to push it. I'm not into show quality sound, just enough to make Robert Earl Keen and Jack Ingram sound good at 100mph with the windows down. I don't know squat about squat when it comes to car audio, so do any of y'all have any positive/negative info about anything out there. A buddy recommended RF and PPI, but they seem a little $$$. Just curious.

DUCK

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November 18, 1999 We will not forget.
The fallen 12 will live in our hearts forever.
Fightin' Texas Aggie Bonfire 1999




[This message has been edited by DUCK01 (edited 10-25-2000).]

 

Also back to my original question, should I bother spending anything big for the rear 5x7's.

Dan

 

Dan -
I wouldn't put anything in the back, infact disconnect the back if you please. Spend that money you would have used on back speakers to gwt the better subs or seriously good front components.
Focals in the front and JL's subs works.
The back speakers are almost useless and if you concentrate on a great sounding pair up front you'd be better off.
IMHO
K


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2000 Silver Lightning
SnugLid
BedRug
dual Ravin Z-33 Exhaust
Valentine 1
Hyper Bright Headlamps and Foglamps
Mobil 1 Tri Synthetic and Mobil1 Filter
Mobil1 FactoryFill Plaque in Engine Bay
Matter/Antimatter Exchange Unit


http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4293534625

 

Eh, I don't know if I'm going to go as far as doubling the price of the front speakers AGAIN by going to Focals... I'm not going to any stereo comp's, so its merely for my listening pleasure.

That is a good idea though of scrapping the rears and putting the money into the subs for now..hmm...maybe a JL 10W3...

 

Just got done upgrading to be able to hear tunne of the day while driving to work with windows down at whatever speed is safe. I had Boston Acoutics Components put in front and BA 5x7's in rear with JL 10" single bass in custom box behind drivers seat.

One 10" sub is more than enough for me. I can see the rear view mirror jumping now. The rear speakers cant be heard much unless I slide the pass seat up, then the direct line from rear speaker to my ear is distracting. If I were out to experiment and save money I might try leaving out the rears. Pictures of the intall on my site. www.SVTLightnings.com Click on "Dougs Lightning" link.

I am in market for EQ now. I either need and EQ or need to learn to adjust the Alpine AMP I have. The installers adjusted it so it sounds good at half volume but not so good at lower volumes. I think I need to adjust the cro0ssover so the sub kick in at a lower freq, and turn the gain down a hair

Doug

[This message has been edited by Silver_2000_! (edited 10-26-2000).]

 

speaking of disconnecting the rear speakers, Alpine makes a subwoofer procseeor that will take a speaker level input (from the rear speakers)and converts it to a sub, front, rear low level outputs. It also has a sub level control. I think this will work good for me or anybody that doesn't want to tear into their truck to install a super duper audio system. check it out here: http://www.alpine1.com/html/De_n_230_n_n.html

Jamie

 

I have not yet done anything with my Lightning stereo but I did do a lot of research when I was putting together the stereo for my 93 cobra. I used to have JL Audio subs but when I had to have one of them fixed it took over a month to get it back. I also had an issue with an Eclipse deck and what I did was call the place I bought it they said we will have one here for you tomorrow, just bring down the old one and we will give you a new one. I was with out my radio for all of 5 minutes while we made the change. PPI amps are great. They can be setup in many different ways. They have built in cross overs and other fearures. I don't know how the customer service is and if it takes a long time because I have never had any trouble. I thing PPI went out of business and Orion took over. I will be putting PPI amps in the Lightning, with MB Quarts, and an Eclipse sub. I am going to try to run everything off of the stock head unit.

Here is a quick pic of my Cobra stereo.



In the Car

Eclipse 5605 6 Disk in Dash Changer
6 1/2 MB Quart in the door with 1" tweeters in the dash.
5 1/4 MB Quart on 6x8 mounting plates

In the Hatch

2 12" Eclipse DVC subs
2 PPI PC 2600 amps (one for each sub)
1 PPI PC 4800 powering all of the MB Quarts
2 Lightning Audio 1.0 Caps
4 MB Quart Music Comp Crossovers

Under the hood I have a 0 gauge wire running in to a circuit breaker and then running all the way to the trunk. In the trunk under the box I have a distribution block that splits the 0 gauge wire into three 4 gauge wires that then go to the amp's.

Here is a pic of the car.




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93 Teal Cobra #4656
95 White Lightning #153 (sold)
2000 Silver Lightning

 

Pawn,
I just installed JL 10" (2) in separate MA audio boxes. They fit perfectly behind the seat and the storage box stays put. As for speakers, forget about the rears. I have a set of upper end Pioneer 6X9s in front that have really impressed me with their quality. However, even with components (Mb quarts are a great choice) you'll probably find too much separation between highs and lows. In other words, the sound isn't quite as warm as it could be. I will be adding Qforms in the kickpanels at a later date to really round out the sound, and the price is reasonable. The Qform box is made to perfectly match the F150 kickpanels and it comes with integrated component speakers.
For now, I am very happy with my setup, but I will definately be improving on it over time.
Good luck.

------------------
Good hunting and check six

2000 Blk Lightning
-superchip R9
-Downs intake
-JLAudio
1995 MBZ C36
-Schikora chip
1996 VMAX (just sold to one lucky bast*$d)

-rejets
-cams

 

What JL woofers did you get? And how did you fit the 6x9's in the doors? I have a set of Infiniti Kappa's from my other truck that don't fit in this truck (6x9's)... I also have another set of 6 1/2/tweeter component Infiniti 510ci speakers that I'm not using.

My audio guy told me that with pushing 150watts to the woofers that my Sony Mobile ES's would be more efficent & cleaner sounding then the JL Audio 10W1's...the 10W3's need 250watts for good use, and I don't have the money for a bigger amp...

Daniel

 

Pawn, Cerwin Vega makes a fantastic 6 x 8 3 way speaker for these trucks. I'd suggest to stay away from the components due to the holes that will have to be drilled to mount and run the wire.

Take that cheap *** construction box out of the back and put in 2-8in. bazooka RS series tubes. Get 4 of the Cerwin Vega 6 x 8 speakers for the doors, line the truck with dynomat sound insulation and crank it up!

Do a clean wiring job and don't go cheap on your cables, this is important to eliminate any hissing or noise in the system. The subs are the perfect size. No interferance with seat adjustments!
Honestly, I've produced many competition soundsystems in vehicles. I will put my system up against "ANYONES" with a Lightning and "Guarantee" I rock his/her doors off!

TRUTH!

 

I have the low end rockford fosgate 10's in my truck being pushed by a sony 250 watt amp and they sound great, they are each only 100 watts max but they out bass and sound just as clean as many of my friends running various sub's/amps at higher wattage/cost. I have 4 polk audio 5X7's in the doors and back being run by an alpine 4 channel amp and they sound great too. You could have a $5000 stereo system that sounded like crap if you don't adjust it correctly, make sure your sub amp is set to low pass mono (stereo makes it sound like cheap truck boxes) and your high's set to some degree of high pass so they don't get distorted by low end bass. Good amps are very adjustable and after you install your system be prepared to play with it a while to fine-tune it.

Adam
99 F250SD PSD 4x4