This is the second go on the install to improve things learned from the first time. We will have new power numbers sometime this week with the actual plot posted! Does anyone know the correct Ford part numbers for the neww 2001 blower and intake setup. The dealer shows two part numbers for each piece????
http://imagehost.auctionwatch.com/bi...inlandia/1.jpg http://imagehost.auctionwatch.com/bi...inlandia/2.jpg http://imagehost.auctionwatch.com/bi...inlandia/3.jpg http://imagehost.auctionwatch.com/bi...inlandia/4.jpg http://imagehost.auctionwatch.com/bi...inlandia/5.jpg http://imagehost.auctionwatch.com/bi...inlandia/6.jpg

 

Chet, Very nice!! I knew you must have been up to something because you've been awfully quite.

So let's see, you've dramatically improved the intake track flow path to the NOVI, and you've drastically reduced the compressor bypass track. Since the duct to the throttle body has "PAXTON" cast in it are you saying they are they helping? Looks like you have a new MAF too under the "Dirt Eater" box.

Keep up the great work!!

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Joel.......
99.5 White Lightning,
SVT # 0056

 

I been away working and just got back. This was my surprise! The work is being done in house but with Paxton bits and pieces. Seems they found my SLA tooling?? The sticker is butt stupid!! An ex Allied boy had them made and stuck one on my inlet if you know what I mean. I have not driven with the new parts so who knows if it works, heck it looks good even if it doesn't!!!!!

 

Top Gun,
LOOKIN GOOD!
Still thinking about that TT setup....

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1999 Lightning
12.88 @ 104.5
Administrator/Moderator
<A HREF="http://www.svtperformance.com" TARGET=_blank> </A>

[This message has been edited by ZorPrime (edited 11-18-2000).]

 

We are both in trouble unless we figure out an improvement to the intercooler setup. I am toying with the idea of bypassing the A/C unit and pumping it across some sort of cooler? My measured temperature at the intake is currently about 130 degrees! I don't think the water to air will get it done without some help? Any ideas on the A/C approach. BaBolt has seen it done with nice results on another type of vehicle. SUGGESTION,COMMENTS........

 

I'm planning on moving my battery to the rear. In it's place will be an insulated tank cooled by a bypass off of the air conditioning pump. Thoughts???

------------------
Regards,
George
george@spikeengineering.com
http://www.spikeengineering.com
---------
Red 2000 Lightning, #4033
White 1996 Whippet (1/2 mile course, 6 turns: 40 Seconds)
Red Wheaton 1995 Ridgeback (1/2 loaf of bread, 6 bites, 4 seconds)

 

How and where do you think you will get the cold air back into the intake side? The battery space certainly opens up some space.

 

George
Just run the Vortech aftercooler tank. Put it in the battery location and plumb it in. Now if you want to get trick put the battery cover over it and the casual observer will be none the wiser.

------------------
BABolt
SVT#290




[This message has been edited by BABolt (edited 11-20-2000).]

 

Aren't you up a little late? Where do you think the cold air should be introduced. What valve did you use to by pass the A/C or did you plumb it permanently with no A/C being available after the mod.

 

Chet,
It's not late. Wait till you see me posting at 8:00 AM. Only need a few hours of shut eye. I did not plumb my A/C into the intercooler. I want to save the cool air for me. My plan is to stop the mods to the Lightning motor at 450 rear wheel horsepower and I should be there within the next several month. It will make a nice tow vehicle.

Just added a photo of my TowTruck.

------------------
BABolt
SVT#290




[This message has been edited by BABolt (edited 11-20-2000).]

 

&gt;cold air back into the intake side?

If the AC cools a liquid bath (when needed-similar to an ice bath), the current intercooler could plumbed in series. It could also be setup so that an ice bath could be used with or without the AC plumbing.

BABolt - love the battery case idea, and there may be enough room to lengthen the case. If someone asked, I could say "...need the added juice to turn the engine."

------------------
Regards,
George
george@spikeengineering.com
http://www.spikeengineering.com
---------
Red 2000 Lightning, #4033
White 1996 Whippet (1/2 mile course, 6 turns: 40 Seconds)
Red Wheaton 1995 Ridgeback (1/2 loaf of bread, 6 bites, 4 seconds)

 

You guys have some really nice trucks, I have a thought for you though. I don't know your exact setup but have you ever considered water/alchol injection. I have a 1992 3000gt VR4 and some of the guys on our website have gone to water injection instead of spending thousands on better intercoolers. It is suposed to work wonders, reduce risks of detonation, and make your engine run cooler. You can place the tank where the batery was. The whole kit usually cost less than $300. Sorry to bug you guys since I'm kinda out of place here.

 

Lightnings come standard with water injection. Just wait a few K miles until the intercooler starts to leak.

It's funny, but the weekend my intercooler started to leak, I ran my best time, .25 secs of the previous best with the same mods.

 

You know, that was my case also. My L ran strongest when the intercooler(s) were leaking. I almost wish they never changed the last one. I lost about 1.5 lbs. of boost when they did the manifold to blower exchange!

 

When I was in high school, I ran alcohol injection on a 289 (actually a 302) I built for my 65 Mustang. It worked for for what I needed, but I found out in the long run that the Moroso octane booster, or moth ***** added to unleaded gas (prior to the formula change and I had access to
naphthalene mothballs) worked more reliably to slow combustion. Slowing/controlling combustion was the reason why I added the water injection system. I CC'd the heads and cylinders and with the head gasket I was using gave me a 10.2:1 compression ratio, which is relatively high for that head design. I had two choices, detuning the ignition and kill performance, or control the combustion with pump gas. I tried the water injection, and it worked, but the octane boost worked better.

Unless I'm way off on this topic, the purpose for increasing the cooling capacity of the intercooler is to increase the "charge" of the air/fuel mixture that enters the cylinder. The same volume enters the combustion chamber, but the potential energy of that volume is greater when it's cooled. (T1/T2=V1/V2=P1/P2) The A/F mixture is compressible, thus if you hold the volume constant, and lower the temperature (no engine energy required to do this), the concentration of the A/F mixture ends up greater.

Although water injection does add additional potential energy to the combustion chamber, it doesn't add nearly as much. But, it alters the specific heat (and correct me if I'm wrong, the enthalpy) of the A/F mixture. In other words, it increases the amount of energy required for combustion, thus controlling combustion. Thus, you can avoid detonation (uncontrolled combustion) by changing the advance curve, which is related to crankshaft angle and leverage, but that's another topic. The easy way/layman way, (and most likely technically incorrect way) to understand this is to do the following the next you're at a gas station: Pour a small amount of gas the back side of your hand. Notice it feels cold? It's removing heat, which is why it feels cold. Since the combustion process in the cylinder is supposed to be controlled, a substance that is capable of removing heat (or capturing energy) will control the burn rate. Now picture a fire. How do you put it out? With water. So add water and hopefully the combination of the two will separate the molecules enough to control the combustion.

On a lighter note but intimately related topic, when you burn wood in a fire, you are releasing the energy that the sun put into that wood while the tree was growing.

Have you ever wondered why the wood "pops and crackles" at specific moments?
On those days while the tree was growing, it was a particularly hot, sunny day.

------------------
Regards,
George
george@spikeengineering.com
http://www.spikeengineering.com
---------
Red 2000 Lightning, #4033
White 1996 Whippet (1/2 mile course, 6 turns: 40 Seconds)
Red Wheaton 1995 Ridgeback (1/2 loaf of bread, 6 bites, 4 seconds)


[This message has been edited by Spike Engineering (edited 12-19-2000).]