I am having trouble buffing out the many light scratches on the front bumper. Tried Zaino scratch/swirl remover, now 3m perfect it polishing pad glaze w/porter cable orbitor. I did the whole truck w/the 3M & orbital all scratches were removed except on the bumper. Not sure if the problem is b/c bumper is plastic. But the bumper does seems to scratch very easy.Any suggestions.

 

BayAreaL,
I wet sanded my front bumper w/ 1500 grit 3M paper than buffed it out using a Milwaukee buffer and 3M "Perfect-It 3 Rubbing Compound" and finished it with 3M "Polishing Glaze". Using different pads for each compound. Different colors will take different amounts of time to do and this is the only way to permenantely get rid of scratches and imperfections in the paint. I must warn you however that you better be familiar with a high speed buffer or otherwise you'll be repainting that bumper. So check with a local body shop and usually just to do a bumper it'll be quite reasonable ( under a $100.00 )and you'll have a brand new looking bumper cover. Good Luck.

 

My buddy gave me some stuff made by Kit.. Called SCRATCH OUT. Worked pretty good on my front bumper.. No discoloration either..

 

When you paint plastic bumpers you add a flex agent to the Clear so it stays kind of soft and keeps it from cracking. If the scratches go all the way through the clear to the paint you probably will need to spot it in. And yes, the buffers can burn right through if you are not careful.

 

BayAreaL,
If you have never wet sanded before PLEASE BE VERY CAREFUL!! You can sand right thru the clear coat. Rob is right about how you do it. Like me give ya alittle info. The 3M system is very good its what I use. Get some Meguiar's unigrit finishing sand paper. Its the best! Depending on how deep the scratches will determine which grade of sand paper to use. I hope they aren't thru the clear coat. If they are just have the bumper painted. If you have never done it before start out with 2000 grade. Get a bucket fill it with water, put the sand paper in the water. Let it soak in the water for at least 15 to 20 minutes. Also put a small amount of car wash in the water. It helps with lubrication. Always sand in one direction, and stay in the area of one scratch at a time. When wet sanding you always want to start with the least aggressive grade of paper. Higher to lower #s. Spot check your work every 10 to 12 strokes. Wipe the area with a clen towel. It will look dull. Put the sand paper around a sanding block. One that will form to the surface. You can get them at any auto paint and body supply store. Don't use you hand!!! Your fingers will leave grooves in the surface. God help you if your truck is black. Once you see that the mark is (just) about gone stop. Get the 3M products. You will have to use a power buffer. I use a Black and decker buffmaster. With a Meguiar's W65 backing plate. Start with 3m Perfect # 05973 (rubbing compound). With a Schlegel #1 cutting pad. Then when most of the sanding marks are gone use 3M Perfect # 05996 if you truck is black. If it is not use the 3M part #05995. Use a 3M Perfect foam polishing pad. If you still have swil marks try Meguiar's Gold Class clear coat prep. Is a swirl reducer. You can use your hand if like, its a good work out!

HJ

 

The scratches arer not deep. Looks like the typical clearcoat scratches or swirl marks. Since you guys are recommending a regular buffer, I guess the orbital is not powerful enough? the Porter Cable does have 6 switches that go from 2500opm to 6000 opm. I'll just leave it for the professionals if you don't think my unit can do the job.

 

Bay area lightning, your right, the orbital will not be powerful enough for the job.