Is there any update on the 3 gauge pillars from any manufacturer?
Thanks

 

Is their a 2 pillar available and if so where do I purchase? Thanks

 

I will get an update from AutoMeter and Lo-tek this next week. I have heard nothing. they both should be close.

38--A two was made by Lo-tek but was too short and didn't fit well. They went back to the drawing board.
noelvm

 

Thanks!!

 

HI!... I know that AUTOMETER does'nt make a ONE peice, 3 hole guage pod, but it's not necessary. I just simply bought 3, single 2-5/8 AUTOMETER guage pods and installed them one on top of each other. To fit on our F-150's "A" piller properly you must trim the edges of the single guage pods to the MAX. This is done easily with a pair of sharp scissors. Make sure you cut perfectly straight because when you STACK them you will see a GAP if it's not cut straight. In my opinion it's better to have 2 or 3 seperate guage pods because if you have to remove the pod for any reason, you dont have to remove them all. I simply removed my "A" pillar panel and after marking the locations to where everything is to go, I drilled 3, 1 inch holes (with drill and hole saw) for all the wires and stainless steel braided lines to go through. All my guages are mechanical. I then drilled a 1 inch hole in the door frame just below the top of the dash for everything to come through. Then all wires and lines were routed under the dash and to their destinations. I also have warning lights and manual overide switches mounted in the guage pods. I hope this helps some of you guys out that are planning on installing guage pods. Here are some pics of my set-up. I still have to paint mine to match my interior colour.
http://www.zing.com/picture/p3ed82e0...4.jpg.orig.jpg
http://www.zing.com/picture/p3b611d1...0.jpg.orig.jpg

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NEAL " THE H.P FREAK"
'99' F-150 XLT SPORT, oxford white, reg cab shortbox stepside,5.4, auto, 4.10L.S, captain's chairs, bedliner, GTS carbon fiber headlight covers, ***** CEPECK clear halogen driving lights, GTS slotted tailight covers (painted oxford white), fiberglass smooth wiper cowl (painted OXFORD WHITE), FORD locking lug nuts, tinted windows,true duel exhaust with 2.5 inch mandrel bent pipes and FLOWMASTER 3 chamber mufflers with 3' tailpipes exiting before the rear wheel like the LIGHTNING, HELLWIG rear stabalizer bar, 3 AUTOMETER guage pods, filled with tranny temp, engine temp, and oil preasure AUTOMETER "PHANTOM" guages,custom fabricated air intake trac and huge K/N filter, TPS mod, BELLTECH 2-inch rear drop, custom programed SUPERCHIP, BAUMANN ENGINEERING shift kit (on stage 5 setting)BYPASS CLUTCH CONTROL VALVE/PREASURE REGULATOR VALVE, ASP POWER PULLEYS, custom tig welded and ported JBA "JET BLACK coated headers, twin DERALE 16 INCH ELECTRIC FANS, PERMA COOL 14"/10" tranny cooler with 10" electric fan, custom ported (STOCK) throttle body, custom digital air intake temp sensor, custom ported TB intake elbow, relocated ATS.


FUTURE MODS : FORD SVT 24LB INJECTORS, CUSTOM SUPERCHIP FLIP-CHIP, BBK 75MM THROTTLE BODY, 80MM PRO-M MASS AIR METER, AADI F1 RAM AIR HOOD WITH CUSTOM FABRICATED RAM AIR SET-UP, CAL-TRAC TRACTION BARS, EXTRUDE HONED INTAKE MANIFOLD, SHM CUSTOM FUEL RAILS, SHM "RACE WATER PUMP, 90/10 FRONT CE SHOCKS, 70/30 REAR CE SHOCKS, BELL TECH 2/4 DROP, EXPEDITION CENTER CONSOLE, HARLEY DAVISON F-150, LOWER FRONT VALANCE (painted oxford white) and a KENNE BELL BLOWZILLA SUPERCHARGER.

ESTIMATED H.P TO DATE : 330H.P / 425ft/lbs of torque.

CURRENT PERFORMANCE : 1/4 MILE - 14.53E.T * MPH - 93.00 * 0-60MPH - 5.8 * 1/8 MILE - 9.2 * 60 FT - 2.0

OTHER TOYS : "83" PRO STREET FORD RANGER : 351-w stroked to 408c.i 625H.P (natural), 875H.P with 250H.P "BIG SHOT" N.O.S kit, tubbed (crome moly tubing), 12 point chrome moly roll cage, 4-link with coil overs, MUSTANG II front suspension, c-4 tranny (race prepped), 4000rpm stall converter(8 INCH), 3" chrome moly driveshaft,AUTOMETER guages, 15.50 MICKEY THOMPSON rear tires, 4" M/T front tires, CENTERLINE CON-VO PRO rims, fiberglass hood - bumper - prostock hood scoop, wishbone trac-link, two chrome moly driveshaft loops, 16 gallon RCI fuel cell,etc

 

Neal,
Did you use mechanical or electrical gauges? I've been told that mechanical gauges are far more accurate than electrical gauges. If you added water temp and oil pressure, where and how did you tap the engine oil and water?
noelvm

 

Speaking of guages, being 45, I was shocked when I hooked up the oil guage and saw 90 psi as the engine warmed. We grew up looking at 45 - 50 and I find myself worrying about washing out the oil passages in the block at 90 psi - it drops to 50 when warm and 75 while driving- Still, way high.
Alvin




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99.5 Ford Lightning - Full Bassani exhaust, Swanson Performance Chip,Pro-m,undersized pulley,3.73 ears,Transgo shift kit,Cal-trac bars, cobra type hood, snug top cover,2" drop in back, yellow stripes down red truck.
13.01 @ 103.6, 378 RWHP
http://www.zing.com/album/?id=4294235379

 

HI!... NOELVM : Yes! You are correct that mechanical guages are more accurate than electrical ones. I've used both over the years and am still looking for an electrical guage that is accurate. I now only use mechanical guages on all my projects. I espeically ONLY use AUTOMETER guages because with testing, I have found that 99% of the time they are RIGHT on. If you look at where your oil filter screws on, the aluminum casting has a pipe thread taped hole which has a electric STOCK oil sender in it. I simply removed the stock sender and installed a brass "T" in it's hole. This way I can run the stock sender and my aftermarket mechanical guage as well. Instead of using the NYLON tubing that came with the AUTOMETER guage, I used -3 stainless steel braided line from the "T" all the way to the back of the guage. As for the water temp, I in stalled a brass "T" with BARB fittings at each end. I then screwed the AUTOMETER sensor into the top of the "T". Then find the heater hose (passenger side, rear of engine) that comes from the engine to the heater core. DO NOT USE THE HOSE FROM THE HEATER CORE TO THE ENGINE! If you do that then when you use your heater you will get a FALSE reading on your temp guage. The heater core blower fan will cool the antifreeze slightly before it gets back to the engine. Simply cut the heater hose and slide it over each end of the BARBED "T". Then fasten with 2 stainless steel hose clamps. It's pretty easy once you do it. Hope this helps you out.

 

Neal....Mighty fine installtion on your gauge pods. I also have never believed in electric vs. mechanical readings. BTW..Mind if I come over and play with your other toy? Hahaha

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99 Black#1940, Modified Airaid box, Pro-M 80, Swanson Chip, Wet Okole's, Loud Clunk, Bedrug, Clear corners, 2" Aim drop, 2nd set well worn F-1's, 135 W Xenon Fog Lamps, Red Line Water Wetter, That's all folks!

 

Thanks Neal for the tap points. The way it was explained to me was while we think of our electrical systems as 12 volt, in reality they may be 11.2, 11.5, 11.8, 12.3 or whatever. An electrical gauge must be calibrated to a specific voltage so if it is adjusted to 12 volts then it will be off at any other voltage. This is the problem with electrical gauges.
Thanks again,
noel

 

Hey Noel,

Any word from Lo-Tek?

They hand-carving this one?

Thanks,

Robert

 

Just got an email from Lyle at LO-TEK. He says he expects to ship me a new unit for inspection by the end of this week.
noelvm

 

TTT