alright here it is i have an 02 L with mods as listed and i am only makeing 406rwhp and 432rwt what the hell is wrong wiht this picture. i was told i need to go to a 8lb lower pulley. does this sound right? and if it is does anyone have one for sale?

 

How much boost are you making?

 

from reading @ NLOC and Stiegi's site, a ported blower is best mated with a 6# lower. (an 8# will be risking it). Might be a good idea to upgrade your MAF also. With your mods, your numbers do look very low!

Are you using a "canned" tune?? If YES, highly recommend going to a dyno.

 

Something is DEF wrong with your picture
Al (Chief40al) makes 455/562 with a stock block with a 6lb pulley and NO heads cams or porting (or a ported Eaton).

Beside the fact your HP is low your torque is waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay off too, You basically have a build Motor without the Rods so your #'s could/should be over 500/600 "No Prob". And even for the HP you currently have either way your tq should be over 500 NO PROB. If the truck is running great and it's tuned properly I would say you prob got one of those useless Ported Eatons, and there are many out there. I've had (3) Diff ported Eatons over the years but the only one I trust doing them is a Private Guy (use to be a Brother and L owner from here "Wes"), his gained massive HP AND TQ.
But unfortunately when they hit the market every Tom **** and Harry started doing them and MANY actually lost HP and TQ, (because they didnt know what they were doing). And for the record even the Name Brand have made some real bad ones too.

Maybe Hostile will pop in but he has a stock block with just cams and when he was running a ported eaton his #'s were 500/600 too and with a good set of Ported Heads you should have picked up much more. Now the only thing is you mentioned 3.0 Upper, the stock Upper is 2.93 so in theory you only have a 4lb pulley and with those Ported Heads you prob lost a decent amount of Boost so you prob have very little Boost (which would explain lower than normal HP/TQ #'s). More pulley will add a lot of tq but not much HP so I'd have to agree you prob want more pulley. 6lb would def be the normal move but with those ported heads maybe 8lb is needed ??? Just be aware that 8lb + Stock Block could equal Blown Motor if your Tune isnt proper or your driving habbits are aggressive. Either way I'd have the tune checked first maybe you have like no timing in it and that would explain everything.....

Best of Luck and let us know what you find out

PS
WTF are you still doing with the 42lb Injectors ???

 

ok so my autometer gauge says i am making like 10lbs of boost. i checked my upper pulley and i think it may be a 2.93. now i just had this motor built like 1 month ago and ever sence i got it back from the dyno shop (thunder performance) when i start the truck for the first like min or so if i give it gas it is really slugish and bogs a little. any clues? also why should i change to bigger injectors? i thought 42's should be ok for my setup. and the chrger and intakes where all ported by steigmier.

 

You need to run more boost and have it properly tuned. At 14-15# boost you should see @ 470 rwhp and @ 550 rwtq. This will also be close to the limit of the 42# inj. 60's would be a good choice.

 

As just mentioned you need more boost.
10lbs of Boost is NOTHING on a Eaton, most stock L's will produce over 10lbs with just a filter "and closer to 15 with 4lb lower a good ported eaton",
I've run mine well into the 20's.

As for the Cold Start Bogging thats a tuning issue

As for Steigmier everyone seems to swear by them but I've read post's where people lost HP + TQ with them too so I dont know what to tell you there

You said you just had the motor Built @ 1 month ago, do you have Forged Steel Rods, Aftermarket Pistons, ARP Studs and Hardware, Etc ???
If you do dont mess around and go right to the 8lb lower, if you just built the upper half I guess I'd still consider 8lbs but it could get iffy... Either way I'd check the tune maybe it simply doesnt have an aggressive tune in it. And if possible could you post the Dyno sheet because maybe you Dyno'd on a Mustang Dyno and that would explain it too.

 

MY mods are close to yours I have
6lb lower
2400maf
60 lb inj
97f150 fuel rail
built lower
stock heaton!
dual 255 walbros
lfp heads and cams stage two
stock headers and mid minus two cats
sct dyno tune 19 deg timing 12 to 1 air fuel
my truck made 425 hp 480 tq,,,,,,,,
This was with a heat sook motor and 145 deg iat2 temp ,my stock inner coller is not keeping up Robbing power this could be a little of your problem .

 

Dose Anyone Know Of Anyone Selling An 8lb Pulley For A Good Price? Also Anybody Know Of A Good Dyno Shop In West Palm Beach Florida I Can Go From As Far South As Boca To As Far North As Jupiter.

 

also does anyone know what my timing should be at? i am thinking of just changing it myself with my diablo preditor.

 

I would check out STEEDA. they tuned my buddies cobra with a wipple on it and made 611 at the wheels. Ask for pat if you call them up.

 

You still havent said if you have forged steel rods, DO YOU ???


NOW YOUR TALKING ME LANGUAGE


Your running AT LEAST 93 octane right ?
With 93/94 octane and an Eaton you would prob want a minimum of 16 degrees for your 24/7 street tune. At 16 degrees with your mods you should be able to put down some nice numbers. And in theory you should also be able to run a lot more timing than that but you need to start somewhere and 16 is a good spot to start.

With the 112 cu in Supercharger you can usually get away with a lot of timing, personally I think you can get away with 19 but the only way to really go that high safely is on a Dyno with a good tuner trying diff timing and looking at the results carefully

By the way Do you know what your Timing is Now ???

 

No I Never Built The Bottom End, It Is Stock But Like I Mentioned The Top End Has Been Built Up. And Yes I Am Running 93oct Gas In Her. I Really Have No Clue Of What My Timing Is Right Now But I Plan On Hooking Up My Preditor This Weekend And Finding Out.