Hey lightning_svt,

Great work! Just want to be clear on what the final result is. I presume in the end you are now able to pull the light switch to make the foglamps come on in the positions that you described. You're not at the point where the foglamps come on with the headlights automatically in the autolamp position. (which is what I would like ideally)

Correct?

 

WHAT04,

They do work with the autolamps without splicing, you only need to splice if you want them to work while in the parking lamp position as well.

For them to work in the autolamp position, you only need to cut the ring to allow the switch to be pulled out.

Daniel

 

YES.

For clarification to that lame answer, here is what I am now able to do with my current configuration:

Cutting/filing down the ring allows me to physically pull out the headlamp **** in the auto, park, and on positions. The only position I cannot physically pull out the **** is in the off position.

By ONLY cutting the ring and not splicing any wires, I was able to get the fogs to activate in sync with the headlights in autolamp mode. In other words:
[list=1][*] If I left the **** turned to the auto position AND pulled out, then the headlamps AND foglamps would turn on and off automatically.[*]If I left the **** turned to the auto position BUT NOT pulled out, then ONLY the headlamps would turn on and off automatically.[/list=a]

…you know what… I just realized that you could probably get a similar effect to the above without filing anything, just splicing some wires… but this would mean that the fogs would ALWAYS turn on with the autolamps; you wouldn’t have a choice… if anyone wants this solution, send me an e-mail… I’ll also be sure to include this in the HOWTO I’m trying to write…


Now with the filing and wire splice I added yesterday, in addition to the autolamp functionality above, I am also able to have the fogs turn on with just the parking lamps. I simply turn the headlamp **** to the park position and pull out. I kinda like this mode, as I like the look. The fogs actually provide a great deal of light by themselves, and it’s conceivable that one might be able to drive with just the fogs in an emergency.

I hope this helps… now I need to find time to work on the HOWTO…

~rick

 

I did the transformation this afternoon. Got to have nerves of steel to get the switch console out. That was tough.

Anyway, I took the easy route and just cut off the arm instead of filing a ramp. Won't call it a big mistake, but I think the proper route is to file a new ramp. I would do this by removing the the front plate however.

Now my switch can be pulled out and left out and it seems to pull out a little far and is a little sloppy. Not impressed, will probably buy a new switch and try again.

BY the way, with my switch in the autolamp position and pulled out, the foglamps are always on. They only turn off with the ignition off.

 

Thanks lightning_svt - much more clear.

Appreciate the efforts on all of this.

 

lightning_svt,
If you figure out how to get the fog lights to work in auto position without the filing, I would be interested to know about it. I run my fog lights anytime I turn the headlights on.

Any chance this could be done for the parking light position as well?

 

WHAT04 -- really? They go on an off on the timer for myself..

 

I was a little disappointed, but yes the fogs are always on. Only interesting note is that they stay on with the headlights for the timer portion of the autolamps and shut off together when the timer is done. Hmmmm...

Only thing that I can think of that might be different and I don't know the answer to is whether you guys in the U.S. have daytime running lights. Us frost bitten Canadian boys have the headlights on but at a lower power during the day.

Any suggestions?

By the way, a new complete swith unit is only $79.91 CDN. I have one on order and will take the faceplate off it to file a new ramp. Without the sweeper arm, the whole switch is kind of wonky. It pulls out too far and will also rotate past the autolamp position. Just don't like the feel.

[This message has been edited by WHAT04 (edited 05-03-2000).]

 

My truck dosn't do day-time running lamps, so that may have something to do with it.

Daniel

 

WHAT04: Sorry to hear about your troubles. Forgive my ignorance, but the info I posted did not take into account the DRL that the Canadian trucks have (is it mandatory?). With that bit of enlightenment, I'm pretty sure (as sure as I can be without having your truck to test on) that those are the culprits behind your fogs always being on.

I can think of a possible solution, but it would depend on whether or not your parking lamps are on with the DRL's and would also involve cutting some wires - don't know if you want to do that. If your parking lamps do NOT turn on with just the DRL's, you can splice the #2 wire (white/black) to the #12 wire (brown), like I described above, except you would also HAVE to cut the #2 wire away from the connector. Give that a try if you're daring... Again, my condolences.

Hwy_2_L: Looking back over my data, the closest solution I can find is to tap/splice the #5 wire (yellow) to the number #12 wire (brown). This would result in your fogs ALWAYS turning on with the parking lamps. Anytime the parking lamps are on, your fogs would be as well. Is this what you were looking for?

~rick

------------------
lightning_svt@hotmail.com
2000 Ford F-150 Lightning

 

Couldn't he just buy the module a US Lightning uses instead of hacking his wiring. Just a thought!

 

lightning_stv....Maybe I missed something but I am only interested in running fogs with parking. Splice and ????

 

I don't believe the DRL's are associated with the switch unit. There is another small module behind the switch which I believe is the culprit.

To answer your question about the parking lights, no they are not on with the DRL's, and yes they are mandatory and I don't mind that.

Having the fogs on all the time does not bother me as there are four white lights running. Looks good to me. Sort of sinister. I'm going to buy the new switch just so it feels like it works right. Don't need to cut any wires. The results are fine by me.

Thanks for the help.

 

I win. (Well sort of) Got my new switch today and decided to do this job right.

I cut the melted tabs off the back of the switch faceplate and removed the switch ****.

With the faceplate off, it is much easier to cut the ramp on the back of it. Not a long job. Just duplicate the ramp of the normal ON setting.

Now comes the slick part. With the faceplate off, two tabs lift up and the whole rotary part of the switch comes out.
Now you have access to the switch shaft which has grooves cut in it. There is a stationary spring-loaded nipple that pops into these grooves to give the clicking action on the switch when you pull it out for fogs. The grooves do not wrap around the shaft far enough to click when pulling the switch in the autolamp position. Simply file the groove maybe 20 degrees futher around and VOILA, the switch clicks up and down in the autolamp position just like the ON position. Feels like factory to me. No more wonky switch that feels broken somehow.

Gluing the faceplate back on is a snap if you have crazy glue or CA glue (ask your hobby store).

Unfortunately, my fogs are always on if the switch is pulled, but hey, us Canadian boys gotta be different, eh?!?

 

WOW This is giving me a headache!!!! LOLOLO