Starting a new thread cause the other one is getting real long.

OK, if you mod the inlet tube with the crankcase filter as pictured in the other post, your allowing un-metered air to enter the engine causing a lean condition (extra air and no extra fuel makes lean). The PCV feeds into the back of the top part of the blower and the hole that you plug used to get its air AFTER the MAF so the air is metered, cycled through the engine crankcase and then into the blower creating proper a/f ratio. With that hole plugged and the filter open to the outside air, it enters the engine UN-METERED, goes through the crankcase and into the engine BEHIND the MAF, ie un-metered.

Lean conditions = detonation, we all know that.

Not trying to talk down to anyone but if you think about the closed air loop behind the MAF and what it would mean to open that loop to un-metered air, you'll see what I am talking about.

------------------
GO HARD OR GO HOME........
*Red 2000 SVT Lightning
*Leer Lo-Rider Bed Cover
*Swanson Performance Chip
*Adopted 3/29/00, #221
*352RWHP / 432RWTQ with Chip
-98 Mustang GT Convertible, Built 4.6L,
Supercharged with FRPP Eaton M112 @ 12psi
To many handling/engine mods to list.....

 

HUH?
combustion chamber pressure is still positive (vs ambient)at all times,except during the intake stroke...therefore the vapors will escape to the atmosphere thru the K&N filter.(unless you have bad rings...)
then theyll go into the chamber, and your exhaust will be blue.
Theres a zillion race cars that use this setup, and any car before 1968 also uses vent to atmosphere...???

 

The air going into the crankcase from the driver side valve cover doesn't know if it is metered or unmetered. IMHO.
Under wot the air is reversing direction & being pulled into the t/b, how do I know this? My L pulled oil from the driver side valve cover. So if the metering theory is correct it all goes out the window under wot.
????????????

 

The Crankcase vent tube on the drivers side is un-metered! Same for the PCV Crankcase vent connector and hose asy on the passenger side. Not metered. When you remove the PCV crankcase hose asy. make sure you cap off the vacuum "T" on the lower intake in the rear. Or you will have a big vacuum leak. Just cap off the openings in the zip tube and throttle body spacer on the s/charger.

Should work OK after! I'll be running K&N filters on mine!!



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2001 L. (Silver)
Born on date: 1/17/01
Weight: 4,670 lb.
Eyes: Clear
Blood type: Ford Blue
Received: 1/25/01

 

Thor01
Do you plan on replacing your pcv with a K&N filter as well?
The tube from the pcv runs to the top of the s/c then down to the intake tube. Will you be removing this as well? Thanks
beechwood

 

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned using an oil puke-can scheme. The crankcase filters aren't going to pass a visual inspection, and they will eventually choke up with oil and drip it down the side of your engine and generally look cruddy if the rocker cover baffles don't do their job (as seems to be the case on our L's).

A puke can is usually sturdy (on some installs they are subject to full manifold vacuum), holds 10-20 ounces, have two ports in the top- one has an internal hose that extends about 1/2 way down inside and is connected to the rocker cover, the other connects to some point on the intake, and a drain in the bottom. There are variations, but they are all designed to separate the oil from the vapors. The air & oil enter the container and the oil falls to the bottom allowing the crankcase air to flow out the top. This will keep the system closed and maintenance free (except for draining the oil out of the can every 10k miles or so). Usually only one is needed, as one side of the engine is exposed to a vacuum (manifold or ported), and the other to atmosphere pressure. I haven't looked closely at the L scheme yet to see if one or two is needed. As an added bonus, you can get some idea about the health of your rings by keeping an eye on the amount of oil in the container.

I couldn't find anybody selling a closed can (didn't look too hard either), but Summit sells a couple of breather tanks (jan-feb 01 catalog, p43) that look like they'd be pretty easy to modify into a closed system.

Over 5000 RPM my Vette liked to pump oil some oil out the breathers and drip down on the headers (Edelbrock valves covers look cool but the internal baffles are worthless). I made one and put it on and a couple of years later you can still eat off that engine.
This has been on my Lightning mod list for a long time with a low priority. Been telling myself all that oil is lubricating the charger blades.


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Mark
'00 Lightning
'79+ Corvette

 

TRUE, but is only causes a lean condition at idle. It will NOT make your car/truck detonate.

------------------
Jeff
93 Mustang GT: 11.40 @ 124.5 (old combo)
00 Lightning: 13.32 @ 103.5 (JDM chip)
www.unlimited-racing.com

Moderator - Bay Area California Chapter
www.svtperformance.com

 

That's why I like this board....intelligent people always using their noggin which keeps me thinking. A couple of these posts I had to re-read just to make sure I understood it right. I think the guys with the installation completed could answer this question best. I haven't been able to pick mine up yet.

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Jim
Black '00
#1,757 built 3/30/00
Clear corners
J.L. Race program
J.L. Stage II ram-air
MagnaFlow Exhaust

 

What the hell is everybody talking about. When your in the thottle you are creating pressure in the crankcase from blowby from the rings. Especially with a supercharger. Why do you think it's sucking up oil so easy. When you let off the gas it starts trying to suck air into the cylinders anyway it can creating a vaccuum.

I'll pull a plug this weenend just to see but I don't expect to see any kind of real change.

It's like a PCV valve. If under throttle it is sucked up to bring positive pressure and fumes out of the crankcase. Close the throttle and the PCV closes. If it was not a vaccuum the PCV would remain open from the pressure.

I had the PCV valve operation bassackwards in the paragraph above, Sorry.

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Later,
Chuck
Black 00
Chuck's Lightning Page

[This message has been edited by LTNBOLT (edited 02-09-2001).]

[This message has been edited by LTNBOLT (edited 02-09-2001).]

[This message has been edited by LTNBOLT (edited 02-09-2001).]

 

Red2000SVT,

Have you actually experienced this condition or are you just speculating that a lean condition will happen.

Jerrod

 

Hey gang - what's all the fuss about? Consider this - I don't believe anyone that has done the mod has increased tube diameter - consider the filter area as about the same length of the tube that has been removed - only a larger diameter tube would make a difference as to a lean condition - these 5.4's run very rich in stock form. I really enjoy knowing that the engine is getting air not mixed with oil!

Cruiser

 

beechwood,
I'm going to get another cam cover and modify it!! I will not be re-circulating any engine vapor into my engine!! I have a open system on my mustang and it does just fine!!






------------------
2001 L. (Silver)
Born on date: 1/17/01
Weight: 4,670 lb.
Eyes: Clear
Blood type: Ford Blue
Received: 1/25/01

 

Hey guys, picked my stuff up tonight and did the mod tonight just like bob, clonetek, beechwood, Cruiser and LTNBOLT (to name the ones I can readily remember that did it) with the exception that I used the "comes apart" K&N filter of the same dimensions. The truck runs exactly like before. No difference. The only difference is my bellows won't be full of oil and the throttle body, intake and intercooler won't have crusty, caked, nasty, cruddy, flaky oil remains on it.

I'm not saying run out and do this, because Lord knows I don't want to be the black sheep if something goes sour - think about what you're doing and how it works before you do it. I just can't think of anything negative about this mod other than the filter will need periodic cleaning to keep it up to our L worthy appearance. That, in my opinion, is why the tube is there. It does the same thing as the K&N, but is maintainence free. In fact, K&N says you can accumulate a large layer of filth on it and it works just as good as new. But we wouldn't let that happen, would we?

------------------
Jim
Black '00
#1,757 built 3/30/00
Clear corners
J.L. Race program
J.L. Stage II ram-air
MagnaFlow Exhaust

 

gforce,

cool, what is the part number for "mini me?"

 

Bob,

I used part #62-1110. It is the same dimensions, but has a nut on top that can be unscrewed. This allows for disassembly which means it can be cleaned like an air filter. The method for plugging up the intake tube worked great.

------------------
Jim
Black '00
#1,757 built 3/30/00
Clear corners
J.L. Race program
J.L. Stage II ram-air
MagnaFlow Exhaust