i just blew the bottom end in my 01 lightning and was going to have a jasper long block put in.. but the dealer said that the supercharger is causing my prob when i told them i was going to have jasper install it. i dont think they even had time to look at it, wanted to know how likely this is or if im getting screwed the truck has 120k on it

 

I would get more info as to what the dealer meant by "the supercharger is causing the prob"

From the guys that I know, the super charger can completely not work and the truck will still run...just no boost.

With our trucks...L's and HD's. Under certain driving conditions, having a SC will cause the bottom end to go. WOT blasts in weather that is too cold, hard shifts from 3rd into OD, and 2 gear kickdowns. The stock rods are just not strong enough causing them to break and punch through the block.

If your gonna have a built longblock put in, then you might as well get a new supercharger as well to really wake her up as that stock eaton is only good for 15-16#'s of boost (and the eaton creates a lot of heat, that is why they call it a HEATON)

I put a 2.3L whipple on mine when I built her and am at 18#'s of boost for the street with 585/650 to the rear wheels on 22's. Kenne Bell, Magnum Powers, Whipple are all good...but you could always go with a steigmeir eaton (ported eaton if you want to save some money).

But I always say, If your gonna go built, then do it right or don't do it at all. It really depends upon your budget.

You can run the stock eaton on a built longlock, but since your already pulling yours off...and with your mileage...you might want to have it checked out to see if your rotors are warped, need resurfacing, or just isn't worth it at all. (That is if you are going to keep it)

What other mods have you done to the truck?

 

waiting on the rest of the story

 

yeah i have heard the same if i take off the s/c belt and it still makes the noise its not the s/c i didnt see how it would really effect my bottom end b/c the knocking is clearly coming from the driverside bottom end.... but i have heard the s/c could cause knocking if its bad.

i would love a new s/c but i just dont have the cash right now the new long block is putting me in the hole as it is.

do you think it would be safe to put that s/c back on my new engine for the time being?

 

#1 WTF, why are you replacing the motor if you don't even know what's wrong with the truck???

#2 we canot see thru the internet, throwing a new motor in your truck isn't going to help anything if you have un-supported mods

 

i know the bottom end is shot

i wanted to know if it was possible the s/c could cause this b/c thats what the dealer said and how long the stock s/c usually last.

b/c if the s/c is causing the prob ill just have to bite the bullet and spend more cash for a new one. but i would like to save a few bucks and use my old s/c if its still good.

 

do you have any mods??? ie pulleys for more boost? were you running less than 91 octane etc

 

If you pulled the belt from the super and its not spinning and you are still hearing the noise (i assume its a loud knock) then you more than likely broke a rod...now depending upon the damage (and the only way to tell is pull the motor and dis-assemble) you may be able to use your stock block.

I need to look back at what year your L is, but the block that most L's and HD's come with are the Cast Iron Production block from Ford Racing, and if your crank isn't chewed up, then you can re-use that also as it is forged.

If the price of a long block is setting you back that far in the wallet...then do a short block build.

Re-use your block & crank
Get some Manly H-Beam Rods
CP Pistons
ARP Studs

and have it reassembled or do it yourself.

Only way your supercharger would be making noise is if you warped a rotor or if the rotors broke and they are hitting each other or the case (in any case, then its time to replace the SC)

Do a shortblock build and if your stock super is still ok, then you can run that no problem and save yourself some money till its the right time to go Fully Built.

Main thing right now is, you got to pull that motor and take it apart to see what the full damage is.

 

Sounds to me like the dealer thinks the S/C is an aftermarket part

 

 

My 01 has just turned over 200000 miles. The Eaton was ported at about 120000 and the oil was changed. Packed the rear bearing. Still working fine. Rotors were stripped at 120000 also.

 

So what was the final outcome with this??? Any more news???