Has anyone welded their lower control arm bolt to keep it from "thunking"? Mine is driving me crazy and I have to do something.

B

 

I'm not a good welder. I welded the washer, front and back one to the control arm. No movement. No problems 13K miles.

 

My clunk has returned. Looks like it's time to fire up the heli-arc machine.

 

The better fix is from Herb (action911), and a cambolt kit...

 

My dealership fixed my L's clunk under warranty...why not just do that?

 

I have read numerous posts where the dealer fix for the problem doesn't hold up or work.

I have emailed Herb for info on the washers but have to get a response. I am thinking welding would be easier.

b

 

The dealer fixed mine, but it returned. I have cam bolts installed when the front was aligned. I'll have to get some herb's washers.

Make sure the front ens is aligned properly before welding. That is a slot, not just a bolt hole.

 

How can it be aligned properly with the bolt going back and forth? The tire on the front left wears really bad just on the immediate inside tread. I was just going to push the control arm as far inward as possible and then weld it and then get it aligned. I was hoping by doing this to reduce the camber and hopefully the inside tread wear.

B

 

Hey people,

I'm having problems with my MSN Hotmail address. I may have to charge the address. I will let everyone know here.

Herb

 

I'm back up.

Herb

 

It's true. I took mine in five weeks ago for the clunk. The dealership did the TSB then called me to say it didn't work. They ordered a new lower control arm. I'm still waiting for the parts to arrive. I do have Herb's washers on order.

 

You need to weld after the alignment... The slot is the only adjustment you have for an alignment without the cambolts. If you arbitrarily just weld it prior to alignment then all they can do is check it .....if it's off you're just SOL... The Napa cambolt kits are only 15.5 bucks for each side. You can use Herb's washer in conjunction with the cam bolts or weld it. The washers just look a little more professional, if that's an issue?? They give you unlimited adjustability whether you're at normal ride height or lowered. The factory adjustment cabability is marginal at best...
My dealer was willing to install my cam bolts and Herbs washers under warrantee. I elected to do it all myself and give it to them for the alignment. To install the cam bolts and washers took me a total of 45 minutes total, for both sides. It's a piece of cake and required no special tools..

 

Do you have a part # for the cam bolt kits? They go on the lower control arm bolt? I guess I will wait to do the welding. How much were the Herb washers?

 

The NAPA part number is: NCP2642953. You'll need 2ea of them.
You can order them from www.napaonline.com for $15.49 each if you want. The cam bolts go on the upper control arms, 2 bolts (one kit), on the front and rear for each upper control arm. When you remove the factory upper control arm bolts make sure you remove the rectangular washer that goes between the bolt washer and the frame. It's what "locks" the factory bolts in place. If you don't remove them then you'll have no adjustability. Just remove the tire on each side and you'll see where they go. The washers were $50 a set (2 ea) You can email Herb at jacksonherb@hotmail.com to obtain them. hope this helps.

 

Is there anything special to changing the bolts? Do I need to put a jack under the lower control arm while I do this? I figure just do it one at a time right. I really am not an idiot just don't want to screw anything up.