Help?? I recently purchased a used 80mm Pro-M and cold air intake and now I am getting a check engine light. Is this common? I reset the computer (ie disconnect the battery) and the light went away but came back at around 200miles. I installed my original meter and no check engine light. I feel the truck actually runs better with the Pro-M but am discouraged with the light. The only symptom I have been able to diagnose is a slight "flutter" in the idle occasionally. Any suggestions?

Thanks, B

 

Doubleup, you need a chip tuned to the pro m to really take advantage of it and this will also keep your check engine light off.

 

the check engine light is on for a reason. you don't just fix a problem by disconnecting the battery. you need to have the codes stored in the PCM checked to see what is wrong. if the light comes on with your new MAF and doesn't come on with your stock MAF, then that would certainly seem to point you in the direction of a problem with your Pro-M. I'd suspect that the calibration isn't correct for your vehicle, but I'm not 100% sure of that, if you want a 90mm MAF you should just buy a Ford one anyway. I'd suspect that you have some sort of code for MAF voltage < or > than suspected, or possibly a lean or rich condition being caused by incorrectly interpretted readings from the MAF.

good luck, you need to check the codes.

later,
chris

 

This would be a LEAN condition that the pro m is causing and like i said get a chip tuned for it.Unless you want to WASTE money on a 90 mm as they offer no advantage over a pro m other than your tuner options are increased.Take it from someone who has been running one for 1.5 years.Whoever you bought the pro m from was running a chip tuned for it.

 

"Unless you want to WASTE money on a 90 mm as they offer no advantage"???

I guess that's why Ford changed to a 90mm right, just liked the number better than 80 maybe?

BTW, ibfast is right about you needing a chip to get a proper calibration between the PCM and the MAF (like I said).

I believe you'll need a chip even if you had used the Ford unit.

But I don't think he's right about a 90mm not being better, it certainly isn't worse as far as airflow, and I guarantee ford's electronic tuning is better calibrated than Pro-M's, plus I'd suspect that the Ford plastic 90mm is cheaper than a Pro-M part.

I could be wrong though, it happened once before

later,
chris

 

Not to get off the subject anymore but the calibration inscribed on the Pro-M electronics says 87mm. The guy I got it from told me it was a Pro-M 80mm. Is this standard? Or did he get luck when he thought he was buying a 80mm?

B

 

Chris, you can't compare a 80mm ford maf to a pro m. All lightnings that i have raced that have a chip and filter only of any kind have been slower than me,or dead even.This includes01s.Several have had 90mm mafs and a variety of chips while my setup is 1.5 years old.So like i said the only advantage to a 90mm is your tuner options grow from 4 to 7. There are no 01 lightnings in the 12s with a chip and 90mm to my knowledge.This would indicate that a 90mm does Not perform better than a 80mm pro m. I am sure a 90mm far outperforms an 80mm stock maf.

 

doubleup,there are no 87mm maf's for a lightning made by pro m,sounds like you found the problem.

 

Doubleup...these are the FACTS. You DO NOT NEED to buy a aftermarket chip to run the 80mm Pro-M in your Lightning. I am not happy with all the MIS-INFORMATION HERE!!! I have a Pro-M with NO CHIP. I had THE SES CODE and the reason was a lean condition. Send the Pro-M to http://www.pro-flow.com/ and they will re-calibrate it for you. You can call them. The are very nice folk. Man...

again..I run NO CHIP...AND HAVE A PRO-M...378 RWHP...2000 Lightning...Pro-M, Babolt Throttle Body only!!!

 

You really DO need a chip for the Pro-m MAF. Yes, it's desinged to work as a bolt on, as all of Pro-flows meters are. Yes, some people have luck just bolting them on. But more people have problems with them than people have good luck with them.

There are two reasons for this. One- about 5 out of every 8 Pro-m meters are not calibrated right. And Two, even with a "good" calibration, it's still a crude fix. The curve that the Lightning Pro-M meter is based on is a Mustang GT calibration. The calibrated Pro-M curve screws up the load factor in the Lightning PCM. Not only does that cause some drivability issues, but it can waste your trans as well. I had problems myself on our 99 truck with the transmission and it was caused by an uncorrected Pro-M meter. I have several customers who have wiped out thier 1-2 clutch pack because of the Pro-M meter. It doesn't happen to everyone, but it happens to more people than it should. I have many customers wth Pro-M meters, who didn't feel they needed the chio corrected for it because they were happy with their trucks performance. After reburning the chip FOR the meter, they were much happier and never realized how poor the truck ran before hand. When we correct for the Pro-M, we use the flow data supplied with the meter, and build a new MAF transfer curve in the software based on that meter. There is no more "tricking" the PCM and no more load errors. It really does make a difference.

 

Couple of more questions then...my plans for my truck are to purchase a PSP chip within the next month or 2 at the most. Should I get the Pro-M recalibrated first and then get the chip custom tuned or should I just get the chip and not worry about the meter calibration? I am a little fuzzy still.

I am not sure if it matters or not but the only other mod to my truck is a Factory_tech shift kit I just intalled tonight. (The verdict is out on this one. I haven't had a good chance to try it out since the wife is not feeling well and I couldn't go for a good cruise tonight.)

Thanks, B

 

Sal..with all due respect...wipe out the 1-2 clutchpak??? This is a Mass-Air Flow Sensor...it delivers to the computer raw data from the sensor to the EEC-IV......how can this affect the transmission? Please explain. Get Technical. Is it affecting line pressure or shift points or both?? I never had any change in shift characteristics with the Pro-M or would I have expected to . jw


P.S..Best Products tuned mine and recorded the results as a 2000 Lightning. I was running lean and generating SES code, right lean bank. . By the look of things at the dyno...I am still running lean..but to the tune of 378 RWHP with no chip. Please explain. I had more HP than other owners that had the aftermarket chips. john

 

Mad? you must be if you beleive 378 rwhp from a throttle body that gives 0 gain at the strip and just a pro m. The 00 lightnings running just a pro m at the strip in perfect conditions are running 13.50s with et streets while my 00 is running 12.79-1280s on the same day.Must be i have 450 rwhp,either that or your dyno #s are flawed big time.Either way everyone that i know that buys a pro m,especially a used one has drivability issues and that is what this thread is about.Buying a used pro m that more than likely was tuned with a chip by the original owner.No one said he HAD to have a chip.What is your et with this 378 rwhp?Lets here the FACTS.lol

 

ib its kewl. I am trying to get an answer from Sal concerning a transmission failure on the 1-2 shift. From what Sal states, the Mass-Air Flow Sensor which is coded and calibrated in the EEC-IV to work shift points and or line pressure. I am asking a technical question. To avoid flaming......I have never ran the 1/4 mile...YET... Keep in mind I am not questioning Sal's abilities as a tuner. I have yet to slam, or flame any tuners on this board. If you can produce a "supposed slam" that I have generated towards any tuners on this board you win a case of beer of your choice..and I will pay the shipping costs. LOL Now Talon in Lewisville, Texas had a dyno day...and several showed up...and the results were consistent. ib go to halo.org navigate to TALON and do a search on dyno, Speedworks or something. I am going to recommend to Doug none the less that we need to go to another dyno source to just see how accurate that dyno was to start with. And by the way...I have a Babolt throttle body...thats good for 5.6 HP. Have a good day...despite all the bad news in the press...God Bless us All! John

 

While Madmax can be a little intense at times....
I was there. He pulled 370+hp 3 times. The charts were clean and we had 5 or 6 other trucks that ran on the same dyno the same day..... We checked his truck for "hidden" mods....Found None.

Having said that since he hasnt been to the track I will lay some smack down and say that Ill still kick his *** at the track


Madmax I have my new chip and filter and need to go the the dyno again one day for compare

Doug