Hello All,

I just bought a red '01 L last week and I am wondering if I should simply install a K&N filter in the factory airbox or replace the box with something like the Airrade intake system. Airrade claims gains of 20 HP with thier system. What about just a K&N? What are you guys running? By the way, I contacted Airrade and they do not have a system out yet for the '01s because the MAF was increased from 80mm to 90mm. They told me it should be out in the near future.

Thanks!

 

I posted a thread a short while back with dyno results on my 01 with the stock filter, the K&N panel filter and K&N filter with a homemade cold air intake. By itself, the K&N doesn't give you much if any increase in hp. I saw only 1hp. In my opinion, this is due to a restrictive stock airbox. With the cold air, I gained another 8-9hp.

I'm not sure what the open element types of setups get you hp wise. All the big three tuners (JDM, JL and PSP) have their own setups that work on the 01's.

 

There has been quite a lot of discussions about the open filter vs the stock airbox. Do a search...... Basically, with the '01's the stock airbox is very close, if not better than the open element, due to the hot air sucked in by the open element. (not true with the '99s and '00s) Sal from PSP is working on a "fast air" system which seems to combine the best of both air systems..... My advice is to wait and see when this new system will be available. I run a stock airbox, with an extra three inch tube for air running to the wheelwell.

 

Just call Johnnylightning. He will get you all the horsepower you need. I installed his Ram Air Set up and gain 2 tenths and 2 MPH over a panel K&N. And it was about 65 degrees out. I believe and honest 3 tenths can come from his kit.

 

Listen to the guys, the K&N will barely add squat on an '01, BUT, it is worth it to an extent. Here is what I originally tested and posted back here:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=50839

2001 Ford F-150 SVT Lightning

No Modifications unless listed
4,500 Miles Approx. on vehicle
Mobil 1 5W-30 Synthetic Oil
First & only oil change at approx. 3000 miles

All runs were made back to back w/ no cooldown between runs.
1st run was brought in off the street w/ no cooldown.


[code]MAX #'s HP TQ
RUN #1: 342.0 412.3 - Stock Filter
#2: 341.9 410.6 - K&N Panel Filter
#3: 342.1 409.1 - No Filter

(MAX #'s may not reflect from charts below because the MAX
may have been between the 100 RPM increments shown. MAX TQ
#'s are slightly low due to the fact that peak tq occurs at
approx. 3250 and all runs were started at approx. 3500. I
assume MAX TQ #'s would have been approx. 5 higher or more.)



RUN # - 1 2 3
FILTER - STOCK K&N NONE

RPMS HP

3500 - 272.0 271.8 271.6
3600 - 279.7 280.1 280.0
3700 - 290.4 285.8 287.6
3800 - 296.3 295.5 294.2
3900 - 301.2 302.0 300.9
4000 - 309.4 308.6 307.5
4100 - 314.2 313.9 313.9
4200 - 320.3 319.7 317.9
4300 - 322.9 324.0 323.4
4400 - 325.8 328.7 328.3
4500 - 331.9 333.2 330.9
4600 - 335.6 336.0 333.9
4700 - 336.9 339.8 336.8
4800 - 339.0 340.5 339.3
4900 - 341.1 340.3 338.1
5000 - 340.0 341.1 342.1
5100 - 341.0 338.0 335.5
5200 - 339.8 337.7 338.1
5300 - 336.2 338.1 336.6
5400 - 331.2 335.3 332.8
5500 - 326.1 329.6 326.3

AVG: - 320.5 320.9 319.8

MAX: - 341.1 341.1 342.1



RUN # - 1 2
FILTER - STOCK K&N

RPMS HP GAIN/
LOSS

3500 - 272.0 271.8 - .2
3600 - 279.7 280.1 + .4
3700 - 290.4 285.8 - 4.6
3800 - 296.3 295.5 - .8
3900 - 301.2 302.0 + .8
4000 - 309.4 308.6 - .8
4100 - 314.2 313.9 - .3
4200 - 320.3 319.7 - .6
4300 - 322.9 324.0 + 1.1
4400 - 325.8 328.7 + 2.9
4500 - 331.9 333.2 + 1.3
4600 - 335.6 336.0 + .4
4700 - 336.9 339.8 + 2.9
4800 - 339.0 340.5 + .5
4900 - 341.1 340.3 - .8
5000 - 340.0 341.1 + 1.1
5100 - 341.0 338.0 - 3.0
5200 - 339.8 337.7 - 2.1
5300 - 336.2 338.1 + 1.9
5400 - 331.2 335.3 + 4.1
5500 - 326.1 329.6 + 3.5

AVG: - 320.5 320.9 + .4
(12 gains, 9 losses = 43% chance of loss)

MAX: - 341.1 341.1



RUN # - 2 3
FILTER - K&N NONE

RPMS HP GAIN/
LOSS

3500 - 271.8 271.6 - .2
3600 - 280.1 280.0 - .1
3700 - 285.8 287.6 + 1.8
3800 - 295.5 294.2 - 1.3
3900 - 302.0 300.9 - 1.1
4000 - 308.6 307.5 - 1.1
4100 - 313.9 313.9
4200 - 319.7 317.9 - 1.8
4300 - 324.0 323.4 - .6
4400 - 328.7 328.3 - .4
4500 - 333.2 330.9 - 2.3
4600 - 336.0 333.9 - 2.1
4700 - 339.8 336.8 - 3.0
4800 - 340.5 339.3 - 1.2
4900 - 340.3 338.1 - 2.2
5000 - 341.1 342.1 + 1.0
5100 - 338.0 335.5 - 2.5
5200 - 337.7 338.1 + .4
5300 - 338.1 336.6 - 1.5
5400 - 335.3 332.8 - 2.5
5500 - 329.6 326.3 - 3.3

AVG: - 320.9 319.8 - 1.1
(3 gains, 1 even, 17 losses = 81% chance of loss)

MAX: - 341.1 342.1



RUN # - 1 3
FILTER - STOCK NONE

RPMS HP GAIN/
LOSS

3500 - 272.0 271.6 - .4
3600 - 279.7 280.0 + .3
3700 - 290.4 287.6 - 2.8
3800 - 296.3 294.2 - 2.1
3900 - 301.2 300.9 - .3
4000 - 309.4 307.5 - 1.9
4100 - 314.2 313.9 - .3
4200 - 320.3 317.9 - 2.4
4300 - 322.9 323.4 + .5
4400 - 325.8 328.3 + 2.5
4500 - 331.9 330.9 - 1.0
4600 - 335.6 333.9 - 1.7
4700 - 336.9 336.8 - .1
4800 - 339.0 339.3 + .3
4900 - 341.1 338.1 - 3.0
5000 - 340.0 342.1 + 2.1
5100 - 341.0 335.5 - 4.5
5200 - 339.8 338.1 - 1.7
5300 - 336.2 336.6 + .4
5400 - 331.2 332.8 + 1.6
5500 - 326.1 326.3 + .2

AVG: - 320.5 319.8 - .7
(8 gains, 13 losses = 62% chance of loss)

MAX: - 341.1 342.1[/code]


After this was all said and done, has this settled the big air filter debate yet? Possibly, possibly not. I believe '99 and '00 Lightnings may respond better than an '01 to K&N panel filters due to the fact that they aren't as efficient via the intake track. Since the '01s have less restriction over the '99 and '00s, then the K&N panel filter upgrade obviously isn't worth much for the '01.

One thing we can gather is that the K&N filter run does work best out of all the 3 runs, although the difference is very small, and for $40 you really can't beat this fact and the fact that this filter will last a lifetime. Another thing to note, though, is that the factory filter will perform better than no filter at all, so don't go to the track and remove it thinking you'll gain performance.

Something else to notice is that the K&N filter run actually puts a hurting on the other 2 runs from 5300 to 5500. This gain is good enough for a performance increase on the track so long as you shift your vehicle at 5500 or higher.

Some of you ask how did you get I get my truck rpms that high w/out a chip? Well, factory fuel shutoff is 5500. Though, I would not recommend shifting your stock programmed Lightning yourself, but allow the computer to automatically do it at the 5250 mark (basically put it in D and leave it there).

When you become chipped you will DEFINITELY gain performance by having your tuner program your truck to shift at 5600. Up to 6000 would most likely give you even more gains, but then we're risking possibly too high of rpms for shifting on the stock internals. The theory behind shifting higher on our Lightnings (or any other vehicle) is simple:

You always want to be in the gear with the highest horsepower, as at any given speed that will provide the most rear wheel torque. Or explained easier, the trick is to minimize the change in momentum, so you pick the rpm that changes the least in hp when you shift.

I hope this helps everyone! I'm going to continue doing this as I add on additional parts. At $75 bucks a pop (dyno time) it's going to be expensive, but this is something I love and and want to do. It will also help all of you out in the future by giving you ideas to help in your decision making.

I will get some .gif image files up of all the graphs sometime tomorrow, and a comparison of my '01 to my friend's '99. My floppy disk was bad that I took w/ me to the dyno to get my Pep files so I can view and compare them, as well as others, in the Dynojet Run Viewer (which this is FREE, and you can get it here: http://www.dynojet.com/downloads.shtml , so MAKE SURE YOU GET YOUR PEP FILES FROM YOUR DYNO OPERATOR!!!). Doing this will allow me to make .gif image files that are perfect in quality and extremely small in byte size (approx. 10kb each), and keep from having to scan the print-outs in (which usually result in poor quality and huge files).

Take care and God bless!

BfB

 

Hey, I live in WR too--Quail Run area--work in Macon.

INMHO, don't get the Airraid. Go with one of the Lightning specific air intake kits. I chose Johnny Lightning's because I met him when he raced at Silver Dollar Raceway last spring, but PSP and JDM make good ones too. Some of the guys have been successful modifying the stock air box themselves.

Btw, come on out to SDR(Reynolds, GA.-about 30 miles from WR--one mile west of Reynolds-off of Hwy 96) and run your L with mine this Fri. --6PM to 11PM-test-n-tune nite. $20 to run as many times as you can line up. Only $5 to watch if you don't want to run yours yet.

If you've got questions(or just want to BS about Ls), call me at work--471-2270.

Dan