Can someone post a picture or tell me what this is? Does it allow for normal boost dump while not at full throttle? Does it stop the boost bypass valve from opening at full throttle? I know there is a kit for this that sells for 25 bucks but it seems like you could buy the same few parts for way way less. All you need to know is where to put them. thanks Jeff

 

jeffslightning,

Here is a place to start looking.


http://www.teamjdm.com/id123.htm

 

here is a pic

 

Try Auto Zone.

Looking at the pic on JDM's site, you could probably find all you need at Auto Zone for less than $10. I just unplugged mine and haven't noticed difference (except it doesn't dump the boost about half way down the track)

 

FordBoy if I leave mine unplugged all the time I get a growling noise fron the SC...plus I don't want the added heat.

Don does your L still bypass boost at part throttle or is it always closed?

2Fasy...thanks for the info

Thanks all....Jeff

 

Why pay $10 or $25 for a kit that will re-route the vacume lines, when you can unplug the boost dump silinoid for free? All you have to do is pull the connector in the picture I attached. You still get full boost at WOT, nothing is changed for normal around town city driveing, and the computer can't dump the boost on you if you hit the rev limiter or something. The only down side is that the computer will throw a "silent" (lack of better words) code that will not set off the SES light but will show up when on a scanner.

 

Does this mod still allow the boost dump between shifts that I normally hear?

 

What your hear between shifts is four cylenders being cut off. Any good chip will eleminate this little annoyance.

There is a waste gate controlled by vacume. When at idle/slight accel/cruseing the gate is open dumping extra air that is not needed to do what the motor is doing. When at WOT there is no vacume (correct me if im wrong) so the gate is closed allowing full boost. If you hit the rev limiter or something else the computer doesn't like, it will switch the silinoid to vacume on the waste gate to open and dump the boost. With the JDM setup it takes the vacume line off the silnoid and closes the vacume system, this way the computer can try but nothing will happen. But if you just dissconnect the connector, the computer can not even mess with the silinoid. In both senarios it still maintains normal operation.

 

Lightningboy I think if you unplugg that solenoid the boost bypass valve will stay closed ALL the time. I thought that there was maybe something you could do so that it worked like stock EXCEPT under wide open throttle and then if you had that kit it would not closed even if you hit the rev-limiter. Maybe I'm missing something here...

 

You did, try to re-read the statement about the vacume waste gate.

The kit and disconnecting the plug do the same thing. They both keep the computer from dumping to the boost if you hit the revlimiter while still alowing it to act normal.

 

The boost dump I was referring to is not the fart we're all familiar with. If you drive with your windows open, at EVERY WOT shift, you'll hear a boost dump coming from the engine bay. Is this dump still there after the mod? Also, if your at WOT and decide to let off the gas, will a boost dump occur?

 

Yes, and Yes.

 

Edward
When you go WOT, the boost bypass valve shuts and stays shut until you close the throttle. You are not hearing a "boost dump" between shifts. I think what you are hearing is the blower drive belt slipping between shifts.

Also if you want to verify that you boost bypass valve is working after you disconnect the plug. Start the truck, with the hood open you should see the lever on the side of the blower that the boost bypass valve vacuum canister is conected to. The lever should be raised up all the way off of its stop, when the truck is at an idol. This means it is in full bypass. Then reach over and blip the throttle lever and watch the lever, it should drop as soon as you rev the engine. This is closing the boost bypass and is allowing the supercharger to build boost.
Dale

 

I agree with what you say about the boost bybass kit and disconnecting the solinoid doing the same thing, but I know on my truck I get a soft code. I don't want to keep driving around with a code flashing at me.

If you go to the dealer, he will notice it disconnected and will probably not notice the bypass kit.

 

If you disconnect the plug how can the boost bypass butterfly work normal? Can you explain that to me? I want to know if the kit allows normal operation of the boost bypass during idle and part throttle. I can can disconnect the wiring plug or the vacuum line to keep the butterfly closed. My whole point is that I want stock boost bypass function but still do not want the threat of the boost bypass valve opening unintentionally. Do you understand?