Lightning

Made the choice, now need help!!!

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  #1  
Old 02-15-2002 | 03:31 PM
bburk's Avatar
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From: Rowlett, TX, USA
Made the choice, now need help!!!

OK guys, I just traded in my cobra for a True Blue L. I love the truck, it drives great, but i have some questions.

1. What is the best break in method? I have read a lot of post on here about driving it like you will always drive it but vary the speed.

2. It doesn't seem as fast as my cobra did. Is this because it just needs to be broken in? or Is it just perception since its a truck compared to a car? I've only had it for 2 days and haven't come across anyone yet to try it out.. ie SS, TA, Cobra.

Also, I was looking at replacing the stock twin 57mm tb with a twin 65mm tb.. will this make any difference or should I do other things first.. I'm not looking to be the absolute fastest on the block, just maximize the performance without sacrificing the reliability.

thanks for everyones advice!!!!
 
  #2  
Old 02-15-2002 | 03:44 PM
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From: Portland, Oregon. USA
Forget the T/B for now. Get a few miles on it. Then chip, filter, lower pulley, then a single blade billet T/B, Factory-Tech valve body, traction bars, etc.

Initially the T/B won't net you much in h/p #'s. As your mods add up your T/B gains will be much better.
 
  #3  
Old 02-15-2002 | 03:46 PM
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From: New Jersey
I have had three cobras and two lightnings. The lightning stock is about as fast (mid 13's) depending on the weather as a stock cobra. It doesnt 'feel' that fast cause you ride so high up. But dont worry, the L will be noticeably faster in a few thousand miles. Believe me. Be patient.
I have a single blade t/b, it did nothing much for performance although it helped throttle response.
The best, absolutely best mod is a chip. It transforms the L into a completely different animal. Of course, warrantee coverage varies with the dealer. On a cool day, a chip alone could bring you very close to the 12's. The second best mod i did was the transmission line valve mod. For less than $100, you get nice extra firm shifts at WOT and no change in shifts for around town driving. No warrantee issues unless someone opens up your trans pan.
No real issues with break-in, just remember never get full boost unless the engine is warm. Welcome and good luck!
 
  #4  
Old 02-15-2002 | 03:47 PM
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From: Burlington, Ma
First off let me welcome you to the L family.

The speed is decieving on these trucks and it will loosen up after about 5,000 miles.

Here is what I would do if I were you
1st get a chip, filter, breather and a 2 or 4# pulley. With a 2#er you will be running about 12.8 in the 1/4 with a 4#er about 12.4 to 12.6

then if you want to go faster, add a electric fan and cobra water pump.

As far as throttle bodies go the Cobra or BA Bolt oval throttle body work great, but both are a little pricy for not a ton of extra power. That said I have the cobra throttle body.

traction bars are a good idea if you are going to do a ton of racing.

There are a lot more things you can do, headers, cat back exhaust, upper pulleys, etc etc.

But this should get you started

I use http://www.teamjdm.com
but PSP, LFP, and JLP are good too call all 4 of the tuners and decide on who you feel most confortable
 
  #5  
Old 02-15-2002 | 03:47 PM
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From: Denver
#1: break it in how ever you want, you'll hear so many different opinions on break in.

#2: What year was your Cobra? I traded my '97 Cobra in on my '01 L and thought that the L was slower too, but after about 1000 mi. I now believe my L would blow away my old Cobra.

Welcome to the dark side.
 
  #6  
Old 02-15-2002 | 04:02 PM
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From: Rowlett, TX, USA
thanks for the replys everyone.. the cobra was an 01.. it had too many problems for me to keep much longer plus i needed a truck to do normal household things with...
 
  #7  
Old 02-15-2002 | 04:15 PM
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From: Mi.
bburk,
The truck needs time to break-in. 3000 mi or better. I myself and others know that a good break-in has a long term advantage. I worked on a engine break-in study when I worked at Roush.

#1.) A MUST! Check your spark plugs to make sure none are loose!! If you can't do it! Take it to the dealer. It is well worth the piece of mind and saves on a head replacement.

#2.) Let the truck break in under NORMAL drive conditions. If you do alot of e-way driving vary your speed. When driving in the city I keep my overdrive off under 45mph at all times. Better for the trany, bad for fuel economy! I didn't buy my truck to drive like grandma anyway!

#3.) Change the oil after you hit 1000 mi. No point adding new oil when the engine is still wearing in at 500mi. By 1000 mi the bearings are broken in and the valvetrain is seated. You can get on the boost a little after 500mi. Check the oil level now and make sure it is at halfway. If you fill it to the full mark you may end up with oil in the inlet tube and Throttle body. The factory PCV doesn't seal well on our trucks. I recomend getting an open breather for the crank case. Check with the tuners on here they all have them. Or make you own.

#4.) Put in all synthetic motor oil and prolong engine treatment. Change every 5000mi. If you tow alot make it 3000mi. I change my motor oil every 3000mi anyway. That's not the recomended mileage for full sythetic, but I feel better about it.

#5.) Get a Factory tech valve-body and 4X4 trans pan in as fast as you can. Better for the trany! The factory 4x4 pan has a drain plug and holds more fluid.

#6.) Enjoy the truck. Start saving for the mods!! That is how i broke my truck in and you can read my results in my sig. Some here will tell you to drive it like you stoll it. If your going the keep the truck for a long time i would play it safe. We all have our opinions and you are going to hear some. You can also do a search on this. There are alot of people on here with good advice. Best of luck!

Thor.
 

Last edited by Thor01; 02-15-2002 at 10:14 PM.
  #8  
Old 02-15-2002 | 06:16 PM
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Originally posted by bburk
plus i needed a truck to do normal household things with...
such as burnouts, donuts, wholeshots, 1\4 mile racing. street racing, and showing the local ricers who has the baddest ride in town! Have fun!
 
  #9  
Old 02-15-2002 | 07:11 PM
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Take it easy on the brakes for awhile.
 
  #10  
Old 02-15-2002 | 07:15 PM
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From: Los Angeles
NEW OWNER

I as well just got my L on 02/13/02. Ive wanted this car ever since I saw it 3 years ago when I was buying my 99 4X4. Its been 2 days and still cannot believe its mine. I find myself just staring at it from inside my office. I think the new blue is really sweet. This message board is awesome. All you guys seem real cool and I hope to meet some of you that live in the Los Angeles area. bburk, good luck with your new L Im sure you are as thrilled as I and cant wait to start working on the truck.
 
  #11  
Old 02-15-2002 | 07:16 PM
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From: Greater Boston
overdrive

although opinions vary, even on my broncos and explorers, i was told to leave your overdrive on unless you are towing........or running the track or street racing when talking about the lightning......any factul input? I'm sure opinions are abroad...
 
  #12  
Old 02-15-2002 | 07:21 PM
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From: Lemont, IL
Same here. 02 Silver - 2/14/02. WIFE: "Happy Valentines Day hon'" Me - "THANKS!!!!!" My coworkers are just greeeeeen!

I still can't get the stupid grin off my face! I never thought I'd be so stupidly happy with a darn PICKUP TRUCK! Wow.

 
  #13  
Old 02-15-2002 | 08:31 PM
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From: Mi.
Tallimeca,
When leaving the O/D off for city driving it saves unnecessary wear on the trany. Most city roads are 35-40-45 mph. That is just around the speed the 3,4 shift happens at light,steady throttle demand.

Next time you are in busy morning traffic count the amount of times your trany shifts from 3,4 & 4,3 in just a few miles of driving. If you don't have much traffic where you are at, that is good. For those of us that travel on tellegraph here in Michigan in the morning can relate to what im saying.

I've been told by trany builders at Ford that changing your trany fluid every 20,000mi and leaving the O/D off for city driving will extend the life of the trany overall. If you don't care about fuel economy then no problem.

Factory_Tech could give a break down on how it effects the components. Bottom line is you're saving the trany from working. When it is doing less work it is not creating heat build-up.

Heat is a tranys enemy. Heat turns to friction, fricton turns into added wear on the parts. If you want to get technical when in the drive thru don't leave your truck in drive with your foot on the brake. That will build up heat in your trany fast. Put it in nuetral when sitting.
 
  #14  
Old 02-15-2002 | 08:50 PM
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From: Ventura, CA, USA
blue 02, where in the L.A. area? Some of us meet up from time to time in the Valley, or at Irwindale, and after the change to daylight time I plan to organize some cruises.

And bburke, how come you disabled the e-mail link in your sig? I could share some good info with you, but I won't post it publicly and start a tuner pi**ing contest, or flame war. Too bad the search function is disabled, or you could do a search on broken trannies and blown motors. Or ask the tuners why they are offering Manley rods along with their 5# pulleys. I plan to put on a 4# or 5# pulley myself, but not until after I beef up the internals to handle that kind of power. I don't need another blown motor or tranny. (2nd motor, 3rd tranny).
 

Last edited by alphadoggy; 02-15-2002 at 09:13 PM.



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