I am finally going to change my plugs on my 99L since it has developed a slight miss. Where can I get the NGK TR5's? I went to autozone and o'reilly and they do not sell them. Where else? Also, can someone paste the link on the install process (sorry they are not in the faq and search is down). I am hoping to do this later today since I am off all day.

btw..I am in the houston area if that helps on where to buy.

Thanks again.

Mike B.

 

ADvanced

 

Carquest had them.

 

Spark Plug changing tips from Chuck - aka ltnbolt on www.nloc.org

The first thing you need to know is where the release for the wire connector to the coil pack is. It is on the bottom in the middle back next to the wires. You push up on it.

Tools needed are: 3/8" ratchet with (2) 6" extensions, (2) 3" extensions and 5/8" sparkplug socket. 1/4" ratchet with (2) 2" extensions, (1) 4" extension and 7mm socket.
1/4" small breaker bar (I call it that) this tool will make life easy on the third 7mm bolt back on drivers side because a regulator sticks out off of the fuel rail making it a tight fit.

You do not have to take fuel rails or power steering tank brackets off to do this job.
Disconnect the wire to the coil pack then remove the 7mm bolt and twist coil back and forth. The coil should come right out with a long rubber boot on the end. After you get it out wipe any dirt off with a rag so it won't fall back in the hole going back in. If you have air blow any grit out of the hole before removing plug.

The 3/8" ratchet,(2) 6" extensions and socket do most of the plugs. The passenger side 4th plug takes a 3" extension in the plug socket to make it in the hole because of a metal hose.

On the drivers side the first plug takes all of your 1/4" drive extensions to be able to get to the 7mm bolt because of a bracket. This bracket is also over the plug hole. Now just use your 3" extension on the plug socket and slip it in the hole from the front of the truck. Then put put another 3" on it and take it out no problem. It helps to unplug the hard plastic hose from the rubber intake boot for more room.

The only other problem is the 7mm bolt on the 3rd plug back on the drivers side. It's too tight to even use a swivel above the socket. This was after going to three stores to find one. I had to finally crank it over at a 90 degree angle and use it like a breaker bar.
This is why I suggest you get one of those little breaker bars on the front end and you'll have no trouble. By knowing the tools you need on the front end and knowing when to use them this should be a 2 hour or less job.
It was a 5 hr. job for me between borrowing extensions twice, going on my shopping spree for a swivel and wrestling with that 7mm bolt.

Tips: Put antiseize on your plugs, start your 7mm bolt by hand and your plugs before putting a ratchet on then. You don't want to cross thread that aluminum.

 

www.powersurgepeformance.net !!!!1

 

You don't need the 1/4" breaker-bar/sliding-bar tool if you get a 7mm socket with a universal as part of the socket--I got mine at Sears. It made that cyl.(#7) one of the easier ones for me.

Remember, there are only 4 or 5 aluminum threads holding the plug in. Run the plug in snug/finger-tight and then 1/16th of a turn more. This should keep them tight but not strip out the threads.

Get a large tube of dielectric grease(NAPA has it) and put a 'dollup' on the end of the coil boot before you push the boot back onto the new plug. This keeps moisture out, makes a good electrical contact, and makes it easier to take the boot off the next time.

Dan

 

you can get them anywhere that is a ngk dealer. Try auto parts stores, or any power equipment/small engine shops. I own a power equipment shop and ngk offers tr5's, but no tr6's. I got my 6's from psp. I can buy the tr5's for like 1.19 a piece, but it wasn't what I wanted so i had to get them from sal.

 

Carquest for me. TR5 or TR6.

Dan,

The tool you're talking about is basically the same thing. Those instructions are old because they don't mention the telescopic magnet (a lifesaver). I have used the dielectric grease since those were updated also. Some people don't have as much trouble with the 3rd plug on the the drivers side because their regulator sits higher above the 7mm bolt. That was the case when I changed Collin's plugs last year. His 4th plug back on the drivers side gave us all the trouble. Go figure. I haven't used anti-seize the last 3 times that I have swapped plugs but it doesn't hurt if you do. If you have the plugs tight they will stay in.

 

If you would stay awake more often and hang with the largest Local Lightning Club around you wouldn't need to ask such a dumb question
Now go home and ask forgiveness and maybe the HALO Lord will let you back in

In the mean time try O'Rileys or Internet Racers Supply off Fry Road.
SeeYa Mike

 

HELLO? Mike