Well, I am starting to get to the point that I can finally start to add performance mods to my 2001 L. The first thing I want is to beef up the way the L handles. Currently, the truck always feels like it wants to slip out from under me, and mind you, I am not one of those suicidal people that drive to the max all the time on the streets.

So are there any suggestions? How about the FRPP? Does that make a difference or is it just for looks? I am not too concern about the cost as long as it is reasonable for what I can get. Also would this type of upgrade void warranty?

All help is much appreciated!

 

You could allways do new springs,new bushing's here and their would help... ummmmmm lol i would like to know more to lol but hey it hold's the ground good for a almost 5k pickup truck ....

 

I know it sounds funny. I guess I am not use to driving a truck yet. I pretty much have been driving firebirds, cameros, and mustangs before I got my L. But one thing for sure is that if I take off kind of hard from a stop or slow roll and the tires break free, and I dont mean smoking crazy either (actually not even enough to hear noises), then the back of the truck will pull hard to the right. It's like it wants to fish tail without me even turning. I wonder if this is something that is common and I just have to learn to control it better some how. But then that doesnt make sense on how people WOT from a dead stop and not loose control.

 

The FRRP kit is a good kit for the price. I have the Ground Force?FRPP kit installed and am switching to Eibachs as soon as they come in. The FRPP coils were too bouncy for me and unstable during hard cornering. Some people like them though.

 

Your problem was because the shocks were not tuned to the springs. It was underdamped or oversprung), however you want to look at it.

Spike

 

My theory is that it's the limited slip rear. When only one tire break loose, the other still grips and keeps the rear tracking straight. When both break free, they fight it out. The last one to have traction pushes the rear out to one side or the other before it also breaks free.

The only reason I bring this theory up is that it appears to be a common occurrence on RWD LSD cars. The Honda S2000 appears to be a spinout monster in cold rain (with stock tires) because the limited slip rear causes the rear to jump out when one of the rear tires begins to break free. This startles the driver, who then lets off the throttle, causing even worse trailing throttle oversteer.

My AWD Subaru had a limited slip rear. This made it fun. While it did help with deep snow traction, it also helped make the rear end more "free". All you had to do was floor it while cranking the wheel in one direction. Both rears would break free, allowing slides and donuts upon command.

 

after i get my engine all squared away I am going to have the FRPP springs installed that are sitting in my garage.

i do not want worse handleing than i had before after I install the springs. How can I make sure my shocks arent underdamped or oversprung(to tell u the truth i dont even know what either of those mean so if you could explain what they mean that would be nice)?

thanks

 

J15BIG,

The shock is supposed to control/slow down the oscillation rate (or force/speed if you will) of the spring. A vehicle with spring rates that are raised, or heavier vehicles that produce higher forces during cornering need a higher amount of dampening because the springs 'push back' harder/faster.

When people increase the spring rate (either by switching the springs or by cutting the stock ones) without increasing the dampening of the shocks, the vehicle is said to be over-sprung.
Or under-dampened, just depends on how you want to look at it.

The best example of this is the guys that lower these Hondas and S-10's by chopping the springs and keeping the shocks stock. They jump and bounce all over the road because nothing is controling the stiffer springs.


Hope this helps,

 

thanks for the explanation wrongdayj,
now since i know what oversprun means...how do I go about stopping this from happening? Do I need to do anything with the rear since I have the 2" Shackles?

thanks again

 

allright guys stop talking about shocks. My new ones are on order the more I hear the more I went them to get here!

 

Well, that's a tough question to answer because there are a couple diffrent schools of thinking regarding how to address this condition.

The way I handle this condition is to increase the dampening of the shock by replacing the units with a GOOD adjustable shock like a Koni (yellow). Then start at the softest setting and then drive it. Then go to the next firmer setting and drive it. Keep doing this until the changes in settings don't seem to make a perceptable diffrence. Then go back to the last setting that produced a noticeable change. EXAMPLE: If #3 doesn't feel better than #2 then stay with #2. If you stay with too high of a setting then you might get what's called suspension 'float'. It's dangerous and I feel it makes the car unpredictable.
------------------------------------------

As far as the rear of your L with the drop shackles goes, I have drop shackles too. My '99 didn't come with the Bilstiens, so I feel that the upgrade to those shocks was enough for what I want to do with the truck. Serious performance guys would probably advise you to do a bit more like better springs and shocks (which brand is a matter of opinion and experience). You don't want to make the rear too stiff. And remember that your end-links have to be shortened when you lower your vehicle so that the proper geometry is retained.

I'm not an expert or anything, so you may want to consult someone in the know (perhaps a suspension component company) before laying down the bucks for high dollar parts you may not like or need.


Later,

 

captainoblivious: I can't remember if you ordered the Hals? If so, you'll enjoy them. They made a huge difference at Laguna Seca.

J15BIG: Maybe in August (or after your Bday), you can join me at a track event.

One other item not mentioned about the shocks is the valving (jounce/rebound). More of the technical discussion about that can be found on some of the shock topics at NLOC.net (Road Racing Forum). I'll be putting my shocks on a Dyno sometime soon and will post the graphs. It'll be a good comparision to the graphs that Ford published (posted also over there).

Spike

 

this may be a rookie question but what are endlinks and how should i go about shortening them. as for the front shock you think some koni adjustable would be good? where do you think i should get them from?


thanks for your help....you are expert enough for me
joe

oh yeah
spike
i would still like to come and watch some on track events. i only have school on tues and thursday from 1-3:30 so i have a lot of free time. next time there is one that spectators are allowed shoot me an email and ill see if i can make it

 

Joe,
Koni's aren't available and if they were, you have to remove the shock to adjust them, or at least jack the truck so the shock is fully extended. I talked with them last summer about making custom shocks, but they weren't interested. The good news is that are other manufactures that make shocks that can be adapted to the Lightning. Plan on spending about $160 per shock but keep in mind they are rebuildable and custom valving can be done. See NLOC.net for more info.

Regarding the track events, I'll invite you to the next one that's not on a school day. Let me define that for you: one that's on a Holiday, during an extending school break, during summer vacation, or on Saturday or Sunday (school is in session Monday morning thru Friday afternoon).

Spike