Well for everyone who has not seen one here it is. This is looking toward the front of the truck. It is mounted to the bed rails. The threaded snout that goes out of it hits the pinion.....that is how it is effective.


--Joe

 

Hey that looks like mine! Nice picture Joe keep them coming!

 

Sheet metal screws hold that on? Not mounted to the frame???

 

Looks great, but tell us the numbers. How much time did you knock off your 60's and what kind of tires are you running so we can compare it with others. I have had two different type of traction bars and ended up scraping both of them and just installing some basic spring clamps that I made for under 10 dollars and I have been getting 1.78-1.79 60's on F1's with 13,000 miles on them.

 

Show me how you did the spring clamps. I have a snubber but I also want to add something like that, too. email??

 

Silver-Bolt--Yup...I thought the same thing when I saw it.....but they hold very tight.

usahooters--Since I live in Michigan the tracks are not open yet....I will let you know how they work after this weekend (opening day).

--Joe

 

what am i looking at?

 

A pinion snubber.

--Joe

 

ok everyone call me a retard... what's a pinion snubber

 

Pinion snubber. In th "old" days they were real popular with Mopars. They typically mounted on the differential just above and behind the pinion/driveshaft u-joint and it looked like some mechanical d!ldo. As the housing reacted to acceleration and twisted the diff up the pinion would contact a pc of plate under the body or just the underside of the body. Just another way to stop the rear from twisting. The one in the pic works in the opposite direction but the same principle. It mounts to the underside of the body and has a bumper that contacts the diff when it starts to twist up. Does that make sense? I haven't put mine in yet.

usahooters - where did u set your clamps? I like that idea.

 

thanks Doc. It makes sense now.

 

I made my spring clamps out of flat bar from Lowes. 3/16" thick by 2" wide. I cut it about 3 and 3/4" long then drilled holes in each end. (On the back half of our leaf springs there is a factory spring clamp. Look at it for a sample of what you are trying to make. Ours just wont have any free play like it does.) I bolted the homemade spring clamps on the front side of the leafs, I started out by clamping 4 leafs and it rode ruff and didn't help the hook, I worked with it until I am only clamping 2 leafs pretty close to the front mount bolt of the leafs. Use good strong bolts if you do this, like 1/2" grade 8 bolts, I lost my first set going down the road. Clamping the 2 leafs together simply makes it twice as hard for the rear axle to twist the spring and rap the up. The 2 leafs can't work alone. I hope this helped, I'll try to get some pic's if anyone needs them. I have had 2 different sets of traction bars and neither of them gave me 60's like I have with just the clamps. I am running my truck at full weight with a bed cover and no front sway bar on F1's. 1.78 60's with 12.34 in the 1/4 mile. JL chip, 6# pulley, shift kit, and a K&N drop in filter.

 

Usahooters,

Your set up sounds great!! I want to see pics when you get a chance. It sounds very similar to the Gen 1 Lightning spring set ups. I know some people have a Gen 1 L on this board. I wonder if I could find a wrecked Gen 1 and snag the springs from under it?????? All you really need is that lower spring with the snubber on the end??????? Anyone tried or thought of this?

 

Wouldn't the pinion snubber create problems with suspension travel when going over rough roads? Seems like with the axle travel it would bottom out fairly often, if you have the snubber set to an effective distance for straight line acceleration.

 

A few of the HALO guys are using 2.5" muffler clamps on their trucks. Connecting all the leaf springs together in the front and rear. About a $5 mod. And one guy was cutting 1.7x's with just this as his traction device.