Ok guys, I did a search and found no definite answer. I plan on rotating my tires this week and would like to know what the recommended torque is for the wheel lugnuts on a 2001? I have seen numbers from 100-150 lb/ft. Is the recommended torque stamped on the lugnut?

Also I will be using two floor jacks. I plan on placing the rear jack under the rear axle where the spring connects - any suggestions about front placement??

Thanks!

 

Torque Specs:
12mm Studs ('99) - 100FtLbs
14mm Studs ('00, '01, & '02) - 150FtLbs

Jacking Points:
Front - Front Crossmember or under each controll arm.
Rear - Under each shock mount or hitch.

 

I don't like the idea of using two floor jacks.
Use one floor jack along the frame, about in the middle and then use two jack stands, one under the axle, the other under the frame near the front tire. Let the jack stands do the work.

Using two floor jacks sounds dangerous to me.
Do they have really long handles to do them both at the same time?
Is a buddy going to work one while you do the other?

If you just jack up one end and then start on the other, there is just too much moving around.
You will either damage your truck or we'll all be calling you Stumpy.

 

i thought we went through this before and it was established the 01 and ups were 110 ft/lbs?

 

on 2000L OE wheels? Need to rotate, so info appreciated. thanks!

 

I use 100 ft/lbs on my 2000 even though I know the spec is 150 ft/lbs. I think 150 ft/lbs is a little excessive and I didn't want to risk breaking a stud. In addition, my common sense meter tells me that if 100 ft/lbs is enough to hold the 99 wheels safely on, then it will also be just fine for my 2000.


I have used a floor jack on the frame and used jack stands to support one side at a time for tire rotations. Just don't put the jack under the rear-end housing. That is a big no-no.

 

that stud difference accounts for difference in torque specs? Like you I wouldn't want to break a stud, but if fact. spec calls for 150, it seems like 1/3 less isn't a good idea?

 

Well, if Beefcake says 110lbs for the '01 that's probably what it is.

It's not like he couldn't do 150 if he wanted to.

 

Why is that a big no no? I didn't think that was a problem

Tim

 

So as far as raising the truck, I should jack up either the front or the rear, lower it on a jackstand, then jack up the other end and pull the wheels? I am hesitant to jack up one entire side of the truck with a single floor jack under middle of the frame. Just seems like a lot of weight on a small (2") area of the frame to me.

 

Since these are hub-centric wheels and not stud-centering, the clamp force provided by the flat washers on the lug nuts is important. Ford was having a problem with the 12mm lugs comming loose. That's why they went to the 14mm @ 150 ft.-lbs. spec. If you torque them to the spec., and break a lug, then I think that it would be "defect in material" warranty claim - maybe even a possible safety recall!

 

Well dang it, you said you had two floor jacks. Put them about two feet apart and lay a four foot 2x4 on top. If I used two floor jacks like that I might bypass the the whole jackstand step because two hydraulics failing at the same time is kind of remote.

(Besides, I think the name Stumpy is kind of cute.)

Chikenears, the manual has a picture of the jack under the pumpkin with a big Skull and Crossbones thru it.

 

I just changed wheels on my 2002 and my manual definitely said 150 ft lbs.

 

Who cares about the torque spec of the nuts. Just tighten the lugs really tight. Works fine for me

And I also don't see what the problem is with jacking the truck up by the pumpkin......I do that all the time too.

--Joe

 

I am concerned about the lugnut torque because I do not want warped rotors. All of the nuts should be torqued equally to avoid warping the rotor, especially under heavy use. If you are going to tighten them equally, you have to know how tight they are.