JDM pulley removal a NIGHTMARE!!!!
#31
05-13-2002, 01:29 PM
Senior Member
I'll chime in here...since I was the one who helped Weedo break his pulley the other night.
Having now installed seven (I actually went back and counted) of Jim's pulleys, ranging from the old style 2 and 4 lb.'ers that you had to press on to the stock cage to the newer 4 lb. styles that came with a cage and spindle to two of his new interchangeables, I can assure everyone that no loctite was used, left-hand threads were duly noted and no animals were harmed in the attempted removal of the pulley the other night (unless you count my feeding one of Weedo's cats part of my cheeseburger).
This is the second JDM pulley I have tried to remove that has stripped. The first was one of the "old style" 4 lb.'ers that came with the cage and new spindle. The spindle had a 9/16th's bolt head on it and was made of soft metal. Needless to say, large breaker bar + small bolt head + well torqued item = instantly stripped bolt head (BadBolt2 had the same thing happen when he removed the pulley from his '01 and it appears that MRBBQMAN also had something similar happen). I called Jim after this little fiasco and he told me how to remove it. He also told me that they had a special tool that they used in the shop for removing the pulley's once the spindle's bolt head had been stripped. He also stated that the new interchangeable pulleys utilized a spindle with a larger bolt head and harder metal. Lesson learned it appeared...
Fast forward to Saturday night...rap the bolt head to "shock" it, throw on the breaker bar and give it a good shot. Instantly rounded head on the spindle bolt head again. Yank off the outer pulley ring and throw the pipe wrench on the pulley's center hub. Off comes the center hub and cage but the spindle is still locked in the crank dampener. We tried icing it down to get the metal to contract, we tried penetrating oil, we tried kicking the pipe wrench, we tried hammering the pipe wrench all to no avail. So tonight we'll try heating it as some have suggested and hopefully we'll be able to get it off.
The moral of this little tale...even though it's not mentioned I have two words that will become your best friend...anti-sieze. Use it when installing your next JDM style pulley and save yourself some headaches down the road.
And for the record, I have yet to see one of the stock spindles strip (the 14mm allen head spindle). If I had my choice that's the spindle I would elect to use (Ford designed it that way for a reason and my guess is it was so their techs didn't have to rely on heating the spindle, icing the spindle, using a pipe wrench or other special tool and tossing out every colorful expletive known to man).
Having now installed seven (I actually went back and counted) of Jim's pulleys, ranging from the old style 2 and 4 lb.'ers that you had to press on to the stock cage to the newer 4 lb. styles that came with a cage and spindle to two of his new interchangeables, I can assure everyone that no loctite was used, left-hand threads were duly noted and no animals were harmed in the attempted removal of the pulley the other night (unless you count my feeding one of Weedo's cats part of my cheeseburger).
This is the second JDM pulley I have tried to remove that has stripped. The first was one of the "old style" 4 lb.'ers that came with the cage and new spindle. The spindle had a 9/16th's bolt head on it and was made of soft metal. Needless to say, large breaker bar + small bolt head + well torqued item = instantly stripped bolt head (BadBolt2 had the same thing happen when he removed the pulley from his '01 and it appears that MRBBQMAN also had something similar happen). I called Jim after this little fiasco and he told me how to remove it. He also told me that they had a special tool that they used in the shop for removing the pulley's once the spindle's bolt head had been stripped. He also stated that the new interchangeable pulleys utilized a spindle with a larger bolt head and harder metal. Lesson learned it appeared...
Fast forward to Saturday night...rap the bolt head to "shock" it, throw on the breaker bar and give it a good shot. Instantly rounded head on the spindle bolt head again. Yank off the outer pulley ring and throw the pipe wrench on the pulley's center hub. Off comes the center hub and cage but the spindle is still locked in the crank dampener. We tried icing it down to get the metal to contract, we tried penetrating oil, we tried kicking the pipe wrench, we tried hammering the pipe wrench all to no avail. So tonight we'll try heating it as some have suggested and hopefully we'll be able to get it off.
The moral of this little tale...even though it's not mentioned I have two words that will become your best friend...anti-sieze. Use it when installing your next JDM style pulley and save yourself some headaches down the road.
And for the record, I have yet to see one of the stock spindles strip (the 14mm allen head spindle). If I had my choice that's the spindle I would elect to use (Ford designed it that way for a reason and my guess is it was so their techs didn't have to rely on heating the spindle, icing the spindle, using a pipe wrench or other special tool and tossing out every colorful expletive known to man).
Last edited by Struck in AZ; 05-13-2002 at 01:37 PM.
#32
05-13-2002, 02:05 PM
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#33
05-13-2002, 02:43 PM
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Just got off the phone with Jim@JDM. We had a nice chat about the pulley, business growing pains, etc... I truely believe JDM is doing everything they can for the Lightning community. He's going to fix the problem i'm having with my pulley, and YES, THEY DO HAVE A NEW DESIGN COMING OUT!!! It's going to have a 2 & 9/16ths nut head as the hub instead of a round hub. Also, the center nut is going to be larger. He also stated to use anti-seize and to use a 6-point socket instead of a 12 point as the 12 point WILL strip.
So, now that i got all of my venting and frustration out, i have to thank Jim for taking care of not only my situation but future situations by coming out with a better pulley.
I did apologize to Jim because one bad remark is heard by 15 people and one good remark is only heard by a few.
So if i've turned anyone off of JDM or the JDM pulley, please call and talk to Jim first, he'll explain it all in detail!
So, now that i got all of my venting and frustration out, i have to thank Jim for taking care of not only my situation but future situations by coming out with a better pulley.
I did apologize to Jim because one bad remark is heard by 15 people and one good remark is only heard by a few.
So if i've turned anyone off of JDM or the JDM pulley, please call and talk to Jim first, he'll explain it all in detail!
#35
05-13-2002, 05:29 PM
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#36
05-15-2002, 04:41 PM
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Nice to hear
Glad to hear everything is gonna work out Weedo. Like I said before......just calling a tuner with a problem can go a long way...
Good point with the 6 point sockets......god I hate 12 points. When working on these trucks......especilly something so close to the undercarriage that is mounted on an engine with is heated and cooled continuously, and has 450 lbs of torque on it............use a 6 point~!!!!
Good point with the 6 point sockets......god I hate 12 points. When working on these trucks......especilly something so close to the undercarriage that is mounted on an engine with is heated and cooled continuously, and has 450 lbs of torque on it............use a 6 point~!!!!