So who else out there has removed the JDM pulley (new style or old) and had a b*tch of a time with it?? Spent about 5 hours last night trying to get mine off (it's the new interchangeable style). The tiny nut that holds the unit on (in the center) stripped right off the bat, and yes, using the correct tools. Then we had to use a pipe wrench and about 3 hours of muscle to get the hub turned and then off. Once that was off, there is still a center piece which the nut is still part of!!! Why anyone would use a small nut on something that requires so much power to get off i don't know. So much for the "easy swap back to stock". Now i'm going to have to send in all the stripped and gnarled parts to get new ones for when it goes back on. I hear the other brands are no where near this bad to take off. Oh well, i haaaaad to have the cage... sheesh!!!!

 

Gee, I switched my PSP pulley in 15 minutes top!

 

Told 'ya!!
Anyway you can re-use your stock "hub" [with the allen head end] with the larger pulley.Also use some anti-seize next time.
later,-Dave.

 

Sorry to hear about your bad luck changing out pulleys. I have two JL pulleys and I can change them in about 15 minutes, only three bolts holding it on and a quick belt change.

 

Is this the upper or lower pulley?

-Kelly

 

Mine is going to be a nightmare because it got stripped when I put it on. I guess I am screwed. I think I even put some loctite on there so it wouldn't loosen. I am a dummy sometimes. Oh well shoot me. HaHa. -Mat- Oh yeah Kelly it is the lower.

 

I personally still like the JDM better because it costs much more and is nearly impossible to take off. Errr something!!!!

Seriously though BADBOLT2 - would i use MY stock pulley hub or have JDM get one for me (if they have them)? From what i've heard, i'm not the only one this has happened to. Dave, didn't you have this problem too?? (Oh, i have all the 'stuff' for you in my garage from Dan. Let me know when you want to get it.)

It just seems like the design should have been different, like the stock unit where there's no chance of stripping it.

 

Weedo - Did you put on alot of loctite?
.What do you mean by that? There is really no difference b/n my 2lb'r and the stock on, the both mount on the cage, both get screwed onto the same hub. The JDM one is lighter and slightly larger, thats the only difference.

Or are you talking about the hub that you put a socket or wrench on as opposed to the stock hub that used the 15mm allen wrench?


I put loctite on mine, glad I don't plan on removing it at all

 

The stock units are designed with 2 hub styles One has female 15 mm allen socket and one has 15 ( or so ) mm male connection. I have stripped both styles.

The stock hub with stock locktite is tightened everytime the engine turns.

The old JDM design used stock cage and hub so if they fail it is because of the Ford design... If you use the 2 pronged tool that fits in the holes in the front of the pulley you have less chance of stripping the pulley...

Doug

 

this is the JDM male 15mm spindle. it sheared off, when trying to remove. you can see the 24" pipe wrench marks, from where i tried to free it from the 3 bolt-hole hub. that didn't work, and Justin was kind enough to give me some hints on getting the pipe wrench around the pulley itself, to free it from the spindle. it left a few marks on the hub of the pulley (which i can clean up). there would be no way, i could have utilized the 2 pinholes, with a spanner wrench, to free mine. i thought i was going to break the 24" pipe wrench

 

 

you have to use heat when loosening a fastener with loctite on it. You have to use heat when loosening a fastener with loctite on it. You have to use heat when loosenting a fasterner with loctite on it. Do we all get it now?

 

I beg to differ with you my friend. If there is something fastened with loctite which is frozen, you can apply some heat to it (dont' need to turn the thing glowing orange), to break the bond. Now if your up against an oil seal, naturally you don't want to melt the seal .

But since you have taken numerous things apart with loctite......and i do it EVERY DAY for a living....I disagree. Especially set screws or allen head screws. You WILL strip the head or the wrench before the loctite will let loose, especially if it is the red(otherwise known as the good stuff).

Also.....you will run into stuff freezing if it is a steel fastener into an aluminum piece. How about head bold for example......freeze all the time. Spark plugs........... In this case you give the head of the bolt a quick wack with a hammer to "shock" the treads.

 

Whoa... I was just about to talk myself into paying the extra cash for the JDM. Maybe I will just go to a non-caged 4#.

As for the heat thing... useful tool for any frozen bolt. If you whack it and it still doesnt move, break out the flame wrench. The expansion differential will separate the threads and allow things to move. Also reliquifies locktite...

 

Thank you. Someone who knows mechanics knows the nature of loctite, and frozen bolts. Why do you think loctite is useless on exhaust systems????Thanks for the backup.

I wouldn't sweat it about the JDM interchagable. I know of two people that have them and have no trouble. The cage is there for a reason.......Some people try to do things they shouldn't because they don't have the simple knowledge and understanding, and get their *** in a sling. If the bolt is frozen don't throw a damn breaker bar on it and pry on it with your feet on the frame untill it snaps and your hands slips and gets ripped open. Wait, i think someone already posted about doing that a few weeks ago.