The goodlooking UPS girl delivered this yesterday. Install took only 15 minutes.

Quality piece, unlike others I've had. The silver tube is powder coated (so they say), looks like Ceramic to me. The air wash shroud is powder coated black too and it also looks like a Ceramic coating. The shroud mounts into the stock box mounting holes on rubber pegs and stands there sturdy and proud.

What do you guys think?

 

Price please

--Joe

 

Joe, email me please. Don't to break any rules here.

Tim

 

Sorry forgot about the SV thing.

--Joe

 

Looks good

 

I bought one of those for 120 bucks. If you measure the inside diameter you will find it's 85 MM. The part was designed for the 99 - 00 L's. The "90mm" sensor measures like 100mm at the inlet.
I called MAC and they said "Doood the part flows !!! just put it on"
I wasn't very impressed, plan to buy a 90MM JDM filter ring. Should have just bought the JDM kit to begin with, but I was "saving" money.

 

Roger if you look real close at the ring it is less than a 16th smaller, ok it is on the filter side so it will not restrict air into the MAF, if you look at the MAF it bottle necks down to the 90mm . SO in effect what difference is the ring if your 90mm starts out at 100mm then goes to 90mm.
the ring is 90mm and then you MAF bottles down 90mm. I really do not think on a draw through application that there will be a significant loss or gain . I'm sure dyno time would prove there is nothing to gain or lose for the 16th or less inch difference.
Better yet we may just run Tim's truck on the Dyno with this kit and his 190.00 JDM kit that won't stay in the fender opening to prove the point.

 

That'a a good point Walker. Thanks, I feel better now!

 

Actually it can make a big difference. The slightest mismatch between the inlet and the MAF causes turbulance into the meter and screws up the reading. This is not "theoretical", it has already been proven by people who have bolted 90mm MAFs to the 80mm Airaid boxes, which leave a slight lip around the intake hole. The truck "feels" fine, but on the dyno, the turbulant air makes the graph choppy and costs you power. Pull the MAF off the box and everything works as normal again. You'd be surprised what kind of problems can result from MAF related issues. Not many people nowadays understand how MAFs really operate, and "recalibrated MAFs" and "MAF recalibrating devices" just make it worse because they sometimes cause more harm than good.

 

I'm also sure "dyno time" will show you've gained nothing w/ this mod in this heat.

At speed you will, but not stationary on the dyno. If you do, you're lucky. It's just too friggin hot! Winter time will show off these airbox mods abilities.

I've tried several dyno tests in this summer heat and have gotten ZERO, ZILCH, NATO, NUTTIN gains out of going w/ no filter, stock filter, K&N, IvanLightning Airbox Mod (Link to Pix in my signature below), etc. I've actually lost hp, when not using the factory airbox w/ K&N, on some runs.

Anyhoo, I can almost guarantee you all that you'll gain no more power w/ any of these tuner's filter kits versus doing this FREE mod instead:

IvanLightning Air Box Mod!

 

BFB, I think that is what I said.
Sal , I have to differ on your opinion , just because the 16th of inch will not cause anymore turbulence than the ribs on the inside of the rubber MAF to TB boot, so I really have to call BS on that one. also from my dealings with many differnet MAF maunfacturers and tuners I have also found that if you rotate the MAF any it will change the readings , this is true with the 90mm and ever my univer I am running . and that can be proven on a dyno with wide band o2 or the high dollar A/f meters .
I can also show you a 190+ dollar kit that is also not true it fitment at the collar

 

Ah, but have you actually TESTED our FASTair kit? I designed it to be the best intake system you can buy, and it's proven itself. The box shields the filter from immediate underhood heat; we've seen a drop of over 30 degrees sitting at idle compared to an open filter kit. The 12" Powerstack filter has over 3 times the surface area of the stock or K&N panel filter. The twin 3" ducts feed plenty or air to the filter and you are not restricted to the hole in the fender. And since the ducts are not directly attached to the filter like a ram air setup, you do not force air into the filter, thus leaning the a/f ratio when moving.

So before you make a statement like the one above, you should give the FASTair a try .

 

Well, you can't really compare the two, because the ribs on the TB boot have nothing to do with air ENTERING the MAF. If the air didn't need to be ramped in a certain way to the sample tube, then meters wouldn't have that taper. Like I said, this is not made up, it's been proven on the dyno, and several here have witnesses it personally with me at the dyno.

BTW, if you can rotate a Univer and get different readings, then it's not working properly; the whole point of the Univer is 360 degree air sampling, and about 1 out of every 5 work right.

 

I can understand what you're stating, definitely. Curious, though, do we race at idle?

I don't doubt the Powerstack's ability to flow, but does more surface area mean more power? I'm not doubting, just curious, because I know that some vehicles respond poorly to larger airfilters, especially conical filters.

I may sound like a **** here, but we tested JL's kit versus the "IvanLightning Air Box Mod" it actually LOST e.t. & mph on the JL kit. All done on the same night and did 2 back to back runs by each kit w/in 10 min. apart. To make it fair we ran once w/ the JL kit, swapped to the "IvanLightning Air Box Mod" (lol, I just kill myself when I spell it all out, haha), and repeated this again.

I'm not sure if the JL normal setup consists of twin ducts or not, but my friend's truck did.

I sound like I'm doubting you don't I? I'm not, I promise And I'll see about giving your kit a try, I promise. I'll compare the two setups and get back w/ ya.

Take care, and later Sal!

 

I know you're not doubting me BFB, you just like to anylize everything, and I think that's cool. My kit performs better than what you've tested, and I think you'd be satisfied with the results.

As for "do we race at idle", well, the truck starts off not moving right? Would you rather launch your truck with less timing because the IAT is reading hot underhood air? Our testing has shown an average of about 160 degree IAT temps using a regular unshielded cone filter at idle. That was in 55 degree ambient air. With the FASTair in the same ambient temp, the IAT was reading 90 degrees instead of 160. Once the vehicle started moving, IAT temp dropped to 60 degrees withing 3 seconds. (that's the 30 degree drop I mentioned, I was mistaken in the above post) So with the FASTair the incoming air was 50 degrees cooler at idle, and was 5 degrees over ambient moving.

As for using a modified airbox, that works good, but I have seen problems from the small filter on trucks running an extra 4 and expecially 6 psi. Problems ranged from part throttle drivability issues to power drop off at high rpm. All were fixed by switching to the larger filter.

I know you like lots of data