finally got that over with.. replaced them with the ceramix pads from NAPA .
the inner pad on the front passenger side was gone... all the rest of the pads had 1/2 to 1/3 compound left..
went ahead and had both rotors on the front turned since the backside of one was chewed up a bit. good thing my friend's dad owns a tire shop.

i need some help with changing out the brake fluid.. i bought some valvoline high temp brake fluid. (the best i could find with a high "wet" boiling point)

http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?Product=51

how do i go about changing the fluid? i sucked some out of the tank, but there is a small disc floating in there that is keeping me from getting all of it out..

anyone have any hints? thanks!

 

Congratts on your new brake pads

I just changed my pads for the 2nd time in the past month, I am getting real good at it.

You might want to look at these
http://www.speedbleeder.com/

I may try them next time I have to bleed mine.

I just paid someone $25 to do mine a while ago. They used a vacuum bleeding tank, took them 20-30 minutes

 

Just FYI, I had the NAPA cermix, they're a great pad and put off alot less dust the regulars, but they do not last as long. My stock pads went about ~19-20k miles, my Cermix went ~14k, and I havn't "changed my driving" much.

Daniel

 

Don't suck any more out. Bleed the brakes from the bleeder valve on the caliper. There's a current topic at the NLOC site. Here's the link. I'll add more/basic instructions to it tonight.

Spike

 

well, i would have made it to at least 40K miles on these pads if that one hadn't gone to brake pad heaven... so if the NAPA's make it to 30K, i'm in good shape...


spike, what do you think of the fluid i got? it should be a little better than the stock stuff, huh?

 

Yes! Most stuff is better than the stock fluid (Dreamin calls it "crap"). See this link. If you find out what the wet boiling point it, I'll add it to the list for comparison.

 

minimum dry boiling point: 502 deg.
minimum wet boiling point: 343 deg.

i also saw some DOT 5 brake fluid, but was told that it would eat the rubber up in the brake system.. is that true?

 

btt for spike..

didn't know if you had seen the info on the fluid.. any directions yet? thanks in advance.

brooks

 

Fluid sounds pretty good... I just ordered Neo Superdot 601 fluid for my brakes...

"NEO "Super DOT 610" brake fluid is designed with a wet boiling point of 421°F and dry boiling point of 610°F. "

Daniel

 

Question before I post:
Will you be doing it alone, with a helper, with or without a pump?

 

cloetek hi ,
In the UK 5.1 is the best level of brake fluid ,highest boiling point and recomended for abs ,( for road use ) .
Has anyone sujested silicon brake fluid , dont have to change ! and it dont harm paint work .
As for bleeding as long as you use an air tight pipe from the nipple into a large jar and the end of pipe in the jar is covered with fluid you can pump the new fluid in starting at the R.R then L.R then R.F and last L.F. ? IT helps if your on your own .
Good luck from over the pond !
Phill

 

Don't the NAPA "Ceramix" have a "lifetime" warranty?

 

Spike: i will have a helper... no pump that i know of.

phill250sduk: i was told that unless the vehicle came with it stock, the silicon based fluid would eat up the rubber in the system...
i have a piece of hose that i will have running down to a jar with fluid in it, so no air can get back into the line.

LightningDammitt: they have a lifetime warranty for cracking.. not for normal use.. thats what the napa guy told me.

 

I can vouch for them making less dust...my new brembos in the front make tons of it. lol...

Daniel

 

Want me to take them off your hands, Dan? I hate to see those pretty chrome wheels covered in brake dust