Sal, I don't think anyone is doubting the physics that you explained above. It is a simple theory, less slippage = less heat = longer life. It is merely the mechanics behind which this slippage is carried out.

You have to examine the domino thoery that is there to be fair. The valves, bores, and springs over time become worn, due to the increased limits that the pieces were not designed for in the first place. With that wear, comes the decreased pressures, and subsequently the stock characteristics return. Slippage occurs, and the wear and tear on the internals start to take hold. Clutches and steels wear out, and eventually will fail. Sometimes in a catastrophic manner(plates failing at 6000 rpms tend to take out shafts, seals, etc when they go!) Then you are stuck with a rebuild, or replace, and a search for answers as to why the Valve Mod which is supposed to be a safe mod for increasing the shift firmness didn't prevent this???

There is a whole lot of avenues of thought that could be looked at here, but suffice to say, Torque will kill a tranny, whether you have a $20 Line Mod Valve, a $200 Valve Body or a $1900 transmission. If you race and play, you have to learn to accept it and pay!

Will it happen 30 days after installation? Who knows, it can last 3 years, it all depends on the driving style, and the power made. But it will happen.

good luck,
joe

 

02Thunder, well said.

 

There is no doubt that increasing the performance of a vehicle will shorten the life of pretty much every part on it, in some effect, using stock parts. Increasing power means the rest of the parts have to be able to handle it. As we make more and more power on our trucks, it's harder and harder for the clutch packs to hold it. The "proper" solution is to replace the factory clutch discs with aftermarket ones, designed to handle more power. However, since that's not in everyones budget, it's either do nothing, or do a low cost mod to help the problem. Quicker shifting reduces heat and clutch slippage. That is going to wear your transmission less, period. If your clutch packs can't hold your power level, that's a whole different issue, and has nothing to do with shift duration, torque reduction, or shift kits. These topics deal strickly with the actual shift, from one gear to the next, not how much power the pack can hold. Everything wears over time, but doing an aftermarket improvement is not going to accelerate transmission failure, if it's properly engineered.

 

Whoa Boy, did you ever say a mouthfull there, Sal ...

Based on my current "wear-patterns", I am gonna sign
up for Greg's MonsterBox real soonm now ...

 

WOW, a lot has gone on since i checked this post last. Im just going to go ahead and put in the JLP line mod. Like all have said, its gonna happen eventually, so id rather spend 40 bucks now and save the rest for a good tranny. I just cant see how the valve body is better. i know that it only shifts hard at WOT, but i dont drive my truck every day. if there is some other reason that its better, shoot...im all ears.

 

What I have heard is that the line mod valve firms the shifts some at part throttle and a lot at full throtthe. Even the advertisements say "helps firm transmission shifts, especially at WOT."

I have also been told that the VB firms the shifts as much at part throttle as it does at WOT.

But all that I am saying is what I have been told... I will soon know first hand about the line mod valve!

 

Yes, the Valve Body affects shifts at any driving condition. It is quite noticeable.

good luck,
joe

 

that your FTVB extends transmission life and improves shifts at partial or WOT? Providing of course that you don't have power mods exceeding 30 or so RWHP and don't run hard very often? This FTVP, plus pan ,and filter is going to be first mod? Thanks Sal for any enlightenment!

 

Way wrong....

The line Valve only hits hard ALL THE TIME, the Valve Body is baised on throttle more.

I have had both styles in my truck. I will NEVER have just a line valve in ANY vehicle again...

Let me tell you a story....

I know of 4 trucks that had a 2nd gear slip problem because of the line valve only. We would get to the track, cool the truck off, go to make a pass, and first pass would always go on the rev limiter, or slip into 2nd gear. Two of the trucks have changed to the Valvebody, and 2 have not. Needless to say the problem went away in the 2 trucks that have the FULL shift kit. The line valve is junk, its a $20 dollar part that us older guys paid $80 for and now its being sold for $40. I sold my old one for $20 just to get rid of the POS.

If anyone wants to feel how a truck should shift, get in one with a Factory Tech valve body, it is the only way to go.

I have drove trucks with built Tranny's as well, none of them touch Factory Tech's stuff......

 

I dont know about any of you but my truck is my Baby and i wouldnt put anything that i didnt think wasnt the best on there. I went with the Factory_tech VB from Sal from the start and couldnt be happier. I would rather pay a little extra for the better part then not. Then end up having to buy the more expensive part anyway when the cheaper part fails. The valve body is a great piece comes all ready to just drop right in. No messing with springs or any other pieces.

 

AMEN!!!!!!!!!


As Fram Oil Filters use to say....

PAY ALITTLE NOW OR ALOT LATER!!!

 

For what it's worth, I think doing a line mod valve alone is kind of like putting a radial tire on one rim. I have a vested interest, so you can be skeptical if you want, or you can trust me, too if you're so inclined. The Factory Tech Accumulator is a better part, if I could do it by adding a $20 valve and selling it that way, I would, but I know enough about transmissions to know that you need to tune the valve body, all of it. Ever wonder why Ford makes no less than 7 different accumulators for the 4R100/E4OD? If you could do it properly with software, don't you think the factory would have figured it out and just tune the PCM for it? They don't, and there's a reason for it, THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE for mechanical tuning of shift duration, and in all modestly, of the people selling parts to do it, I think I know better how to do it, or at least I'm willing to spend the money to do it right, and from what I've seen, no one else knows how and/or is willing to.

By the way, what is tearing up the transmissions is the extra horses, they were designed for the stock motor, when you add horsepower, you have to build a better box. I do a little of that, too.

Thanks,

G

 

yes sir you do hopefully i'll go get some track time in to put this monster box to the test if not we'll see what it does at the world finals nmra

 

You seem to confirm my observations from this & other posts. Looking forward to getting FTVB soon!

 

Anyone that has been around here long enough knows that Greg is the man to go to for any tranny problems. Like i said i love my Factory_Tech Valve Bodie and if any tranmissions problems ever arise for me Greg will be the one that i call .