hey guys, for those who have taken the blower apart, what do you use, if anything, to seal the front snout back on and prevent the charger oil from seeping out? it looks like it had very little sealant or whatever they used in the first place, almost looks like red locktite. thanks

 

The red loctite was for the bolts. To my understanding you put it back together, then torque the bolts down to 20 to 25ft lbs. In a specific order I don't know. I would thing so though. But it was mentioned in my blower porting thread:

https://www.f150online.com/forums/sh...threadid=92733

 

Actually guys the #518 Loctite is used as a gasket sealer, It is a jelled red loctite and I brush it on the flange with a Q-tip.
Dale

 

can a regular type "liquid gasket" be used?

 

Use black rtv gasket material. No need to put anything on the bolts.

 

Really? When I pulled my blower apart I didn't notice anything in there except a little bit of red loctite around the holes where the bolts went through, so I just figured some of the loctite rubbed of the bolts as they were put in. But there didn't look nearly enough to prevent any leaks. Also the snout came off with ease.

 

I've pulled apart 2 fresh blower's and there is a sealer used all around the flange but it is pushed so thin that you can't hardly tell it is there until you start cleaning the surface with a cleaner. A strong solvent works well......something like acetone or laquer thinner. When you wipe something strong on there you will see the satin colored surface start to turn shiny and then you will see that there is sealer there.

Also I dont think the #518 is needed, the first couple of times I put an S/C back together I just used red loctite on everthing, the bolts and the flange (brush it thin, it doesnt take much). I bought the #518 cause I found it in an industrial catalog and it was advertised to do a specific job and it made me feel more professional . The #518 looks like red loctite with some corn starch poored in it.
Hope this helps
Dale

 

i called up jdm, they said u can use anything, just make sure its thin. i finished my blower up this morning with the plugged silencer holes and all. i used a thin liquidy like gasket material applied with my finger and torqued the bolts to 20 ft/lbs starting from inside out. i used red line supercharger oil in the blower. the whine is a bit louder and more high pitched from the plugged silencer holes. it may be my imagination or boost actuator adj. but it seems to boost up faster and i see maybe 1/2 to 1 # more boost. only got to test drive it b/c i have to leave for class. but it seems alright.

 

wkuper 11
Now if you want to have some more fun.....here's what ya do.

Readjust the boost bypass valve until the spring is fully preloaded. In other words adjust it in the opposit direction from what is popular. Push the canister all the way down againt the screws and then tighten them. It will fully preload the spring.

Now......drill and tap the upper plenum for an 1/8" pipe thread and put in a brass fitting that has a nipple on it for 1/4" vacuum hose. You can drill and tap anywhere, but I put my fitting right behind the throttle body and out of the way of the throttle linkage. Run a 1/4" ID hose from this fitting to the boost canister and then plug the stock vacuum reference line that goes to the canister.

Go out and see how fast the boost comes up now .
Its not a huge difference....but it is a difference. The object is to get the boost bypass valve to slam shut as fast as you open the throttle.....this little mod helps.
Dale

 

wkuper11

you're done already??? Did you just cover the holes or did you do some porting?

I've been working since sunday and I'm barely half done, I wish I had more time on my hands.

 

bad as L thanks for the tips! your right i had the actuator set to the exact opposite of what you said. i thought it would work better if it was preloaded when i was putting my blower back together. ill go re-adj it now. tapping the plenum sounds easy, but i didnt think the area behind the throttle body is under any boost pressure? how would the actuator get a boost reference to close the valve if there was no boost reference?
capt. yeah i filled the holes with JB weld last night, as well as cleaned up the triangle and port matched the upper and blower case. i had perfected my port/polish skills on my throttle body last week so i was able to get it done quick. i did skip a couple classes b/c i was anxious, but take your time, it will come out better. i even tried to JB weld the big hole above the bypass butterfly (not all the way, just enough to shroud the hole)so air would go straight past into the rotors. it actually looked pretty good, wish i took pics. i ended up taking it out though b/c the though of chunks of JB weld flying into the rotors while there spinning 20k freaked me out, plus i didnt know if it would help or hurt performance because i have never heard of anyone doing it. anyways came out good. have to wait to get to track to see if it made difference. may go down to englishtown on the 20th. not sure yet

 

wkuper 11
I edited my post, I meant vacuum reference not boost reference.

The boost bypass canister is spring loaded and only needs vacuum to open it.

As for the bypass port inside the inlet cavity, I left mine alone, I figured with the pulleys I'm runnin it needed all the bypass it could get.
Dale