So I didn't whack the rear endlinks...
#17
10-16-2002 | 09:09 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 946
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From: Over yonder somewhere
Originally posted by Thor01
One other thing to mention. If the truck ever goes in for warrenty work and a Ford rep has to look at your truck and see's hole's have been drilled in the frame. He can void the warrenty right then and there! Same for a dealer. Most dealers don't unless your mod causes components to break.
One other thing to mention. If the truck ever goes in for warrenty work and a Ford rep has to look at your truck and see's hole's have been drilled in the frame. He can void the warrenty right then and there! Same for a dealer. Most dealers don't unless your mod causes components to break.
Good idea guys, saves ALOT of work. What measurements should I use (how far up and how far over)?
#18
10-16-2002 | 09:10 PM
Thread Starter
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Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 515
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From: Melbourne, FL
Actually, with a bit if black paint you'd be hard pressed to tell the new holes were different from the many that are already there (you can see about 3 or 4 just in the pic I posted)
Anyways, no rubbing, much better feel through corners now with the bar back to parallel to the road.
I undid the top end of each link, loosened the bottom bolt a bit for clearance, then moved the bar to level. Holding it in place I used the endlink to rub a spot in the greasy coating to mark the hole location. Do one side, bolt in place, and then the other side is easy to mark and drill as it is held at the correct distance.
I did this due to lowering the truck with shackles. Doing that raised the axle toward the bed, leaving the sway-bar at an angle. This leads to improper function, and funky cornering feel.
You guys play nice now, easterisland had a good idea, and SpankDog had a valid question. Neither of you guys can make a point by insulting each other.
Didn't anyone mention it was flame-free-Wednesday? Sheesh...
Anyways, no rubbing, much better feel through corners now with the bar back to parallel to the road.
I undid the top end of each link, loosened the bottom bolt a bit for clearance, then moved the bar to level. Holding it in place I used the endlink to rub a spot in the greasy coating to mark the hole location. Do one side, bolt in place, and then the other side is easy to mark and drill as it is held at the correct distance.
I did this due to lowering the truck with shackles. Doing that raised the axle toward the bed, leaving the sway-bar at an angle. This leads to improper function, and funky cornering feel.
You guys play nice now, easterisland had a good idea, and SpankDog had a valid question. Neither of you guys can make a point by insulting each other.
Didn't anyone mention it was flame-free-Wednesday? Sheesh...
Last edited by 2Cool; 10-16-2002 at 09:13 PM.
#19
10-17-2002 | 01:20 PM
Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, AZ
Last night I just installed rear 2" lowering shackles and was pondering whether to cut/weld the drop links, fabricate new shorter ones like Speedin' Bob did, or drilling new holes.
With my own concerns with the strength of the welded links and the increased squeaking/noise from the use of spherical bearings like in the fabricated links, I will try the drilled frame hole idea. I'm not concerned with voided warranties, etc, but am open to any critique on why I should not do this. I've road raced the truck at stock ride height and know that I need to lower the cg and remove some weight. Road racers, chime in!
With my own concerns with the strength of the welded links and the increased squeaking/noise from the use of spherical bearings like in the fabricated links, I will try the drilled frame hole idea. I'm not concerned with voided warranties, etc, but am open to any critique on why I should not do this. I've road raced the truck at stock ride height and know that I need to lower the cg and remove some weight. Road racers, chime in!
