This sucks so bad. This morning was the 3rd time now I got that dam ticking at start-up Less than 7,000 miles and I got to hear that Schit in the morning, that’s BS..... And yes it started the day after I changed the oil. I'm using Pennzoil Hot + Cold Full Synthetic 5/30. Sure it goes away after a few seconds but WTF ??

Anyone else have this problem ? (temps been in the 40's lately)

 

Shure it's not a pully ...? my little ranger is doing it since it's cold... Im shure it could be alot of other thing's...... Just a gueSs ! BTW r0b let Sal put your truck on the dyn0 and tune your truck for the l0ve 0f g0d ! Ill pay Half your tune if its a Issue, I just wana see your truck Run the best it can..... Plus i can bug you for Zips around town lol

 

I'm trying Dave,
It's not easy Being a single Dad and owning a Lightning.
I don't know which one's taken up more of my time lately
I already have ""TWO"" Brand New Diablo Chips. I would have to buy ANOTHER new one from Sal in order for him to dyno and tune. I just can't afford that right now. Plus it's dam near impossible for me to get off on a Friday, and thats his next Dyno session. I NEED A DYNO BAD, AND WAN'T TOO, but I can't do it during work hours

 

I got half of the Bill.......... Just get some time and let me no.... From one Lightning brother to another....... I have no problem helping you out at all.!!

 

Dave,
THANKS, But I don't want your money Dude, thats not the point, but is an issue when I already have "2" NEW Diablo Chips.

I am however interested in any young girls you may want to share WITH YOUR LIGHTNING BROTHETR

Anybody gonna respond to this cold morning ticking ????

 

So sell your Diablo chips, I'm sure there's plenty of guys who will buy them. My Friday session was cancelled by the customer, so I won't be there that day. But I'm open for other days if you want to set something up. All I need is just a few days lead time.

As for your ticking, what oil filter did you use? The wrapping on cold starts is usually from either having a filter without an anti drainback valve, or just that it's so cold, the oil takes a little extra time to flow to the timing chain adjusters, which are hydraulically pumped up, so you get some timing chain clatter for a moment.

 

No unusual sounds with Royal Purple #11(5W20) Synthetic(full-not a blend) Racing Oil and a K&N Gold oil filter.

Dan

 

Like Sal said, what filter are you using. We just had this discussion on the NLOC site. Here is a link to a great site that will help with what filter to buy and why. http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/ I called Champion Laboratories today and talked to a tech. He said that the Mobile 1 was hands down the best at filtering. He went on to say that for the money the best would be the K/N. It has very good filtering capabilities and also a much thicker casing than a normal filter.

 

Jesus Christ I Love you Guys. THAT LINK IS PRICELESS.
Thanks for the Tip Sal, you hit the nail on the head "as usual" and thanks for the link Brown. Go ahead and guess what filter I put it.
YOU NAMED IT A FRAM PH8A. Here's what that link said about it.

Fram

Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter is one of the worst out there. "Please do not buy these filters". I have personally had one if these filters fail and actually cause engine damage due to bits of paper and glue floating around in the engine.

EDITED:
I had the Fram PH"3"A
Same piece of junk as the "8"A, they're talking about.

This filter cartridge has a rather low filter element surface area (193 sqin), and features cardboard end caps that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and easily leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. """If you have a noisy valve train at startup, this filter is likely the cause""". The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time, but they often leak anyway. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow, and is made of thin material.

Sounds to me the Filter of Choice is: Mobil 1, or Motorcraft.

 

Rob, I know it's hard to take when your newest baby is making ticking on startup. Mine has done it since the second day I owned it. Even before I ever changed the oil or filter.

I was concerned at first, and had the dealer check it out. "It's kind of normal" they said. I wasn't impressed.

Anyway, my truck still does it after 60k miles, but it hasn't effected the power or reliability one bit. I did notice it was reduced when I went to 10w30 oil.

I goes away after 15-20 seconds, after the truck has had time to pump oil to the top end.

My truck still runs like a champ.

 

The FL-1A is for the old 302 blocks....The 5.4 and 4.6 modular blocks use the Motorcraft 820S filter (s for silicon)....I've used this filter on both my cobra and lightning and had zero problems with it and no problems either with always running Mobil 1 5 30 oil..



Jeff

 

Just as Jeff said, that's the wrong filter for these trucks. It's actually not even the right thread, although it does usually spin on. The FL-1A is standard thread, and the 820S is metric. Only the 93 Lightning uses the FL-1A, the 94-present use the 820S. The FL-1A based filters don't have the anti-drainback valve, which is probably why you've got that noise now Rob.

 

Ok I'm confussed,

WHAT PART NUMBER AND BRAND DO I WANT ???

 

Motorcraft 820S.
Jes

 

yep, i just put the motorcraft on mine on the last oil change (thank god), and i put the Pure One on the Cobra, but when i changed my brothers oil in his explorer i used that Fram Filter...... (damn 2 out of 3 aint bad).

but i'll be remebering that, Napa, Motorcraft, mobil, Quaker State, no Pennzoil or Fram!