Well, I'm approaching 30,000 miles and notice that this is part of the recommended maintenence. I can't say i have had much experience with slushboxes before. What is involved in changing the auto tranny fluid?

 

with our trucks there is no drain plug
so that means its a mess
if u wanted u could punch a hole into the stock one and buy a ford factory 4x4 pan has a drain plug and holds more fluid
oh yeah almost forgot change the tranny filter too

 

It's easy. Get a container like small concrete mixing tub. Put the L and jack stands or raise it somehow. Loosen your pan bolts with the tub under the trans, remove all but 4 or so at corners,a couple side ones toward rear, start loosening rear bolts but don't remove. The fluid will start draining then just use the bolts to lower the rear of the pan til you've drained out all u can. remove the rest and drop pan carefully. Do it right and you won't spill a drop. Done it many times. Twice in the past 2 months.

 

Just to add to everyones comments since maybe it will get asked. When done bolt up the pan with new filter inplace and add new fluid in the dipstick tube (yes you need a small funnel to do it).

BTW.......you might as well get a deep sump pan from Ford while the other one is off. More fluid = cooler tranny and it has a drain plug for future fluid changes etc

--Joe

 

Has anyone used Red Line synthetic automatic transmission fluid?

http://www.redlineoil.com/frames/gearoil.htm[/URL]

I have allso been thinking about using WaterWetter® in my Heat Exchanger.

 

There seems to be some missing information. There's a lot of fluid in the torque converter that you would want to get changed, too. I'm not sure if the TC has a drain plug or not, my '97 F-150 had one, but I thought I read that at some point, they were eliminated.

I think the best method is using a tranny fluid exchange machine.

 

YES! I had a local 'jiffy-lube' use the fluid exchange machine at 19,000 miles ago. I used their D4 fluid that was recommended by a Redline tech. It's great 'stuff'!

Dan

 

Once again, here's the best "how-to" I've read on the subject.

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/199...ance-AutoT.htm

-Edward

 

If your goina chage your fluid (good idea) why not install the Factory_Tech valve body. Everybody that has installed one seems to be very happy with it, including me
When I installed mine, I drained the torque convertor and replaced with Amsoil ATF. Got the valve body and deep pan from Sal at www.PowerSurgePerformance.com

 

If you do it yourself you can save some bucks with a Duetsch filter (I think it is TF-325). Do the 4x4 tranny pan for sure. I also high recommend the FT valve body Fast Gator suggested. The torque convertor holds a bunch of fluid (3-4qts?) so you would need a tranny pump machine to get it out. With the 4x4 pan i just drain the tranny fluid every other oil change and figure that pretty much takes care of what is in the torque convertor from the time before. Might be expensive if you use the synthetic stuff though.

 

...and if you like them big...



Mag-Hytec pan

 

Iam getting those
LT's that is

 

Just a thought for those getting long tubes. Go ahead and have them weld in an extra bung in the collector so that you can screw in an A/F probe where it should be instead of hanging in the exhaust pipes after the muffler and cats.

 

Great idea

 

If your transmission (not the truck) was built before 8-11-2001 the converter has a drain plug, the build date is on the tranny ID tag, the line that begins BD-xxxx the first x is year, second is month, A=Jan b=Feb etc... the last tow are day of month.

You want to get what's in the converter, more thna half your fluid is in the converter, a whopping 8.25 quarts. A fluch machine is really the best way, even if you have a drain plug, the clutch drums and wormtrail hold hold a few quarts between them.
The deep pan works great, if you have 4WD you allready have it, and of course, my shift kit is kind of cool, too, a 2C model will fit your Navi.

Hope this helps,

G