Just got a Bulldog 1200E remote starter for 2003 screw. Doing it myself. Anyone have any experience with Bulldog starters? Doesn't look too bad but I'm concerned about the security bypass module. I ordered a Bulldog key for the module and am wondering if that takes the place of an extra ignition key for the module. Also wondering about the security bypass antenna that needs to be wrapped around the ignition tumbler. How hard is that to get to?

 

Sorry, but I never saw a Bulldog that either worked correctly, or if it did, lasted more than two weeks before it cooked itself or something on the vehicle it was installed on. Do yourself a favor and return it while you can, then get a quality unit. P.O.S.

 

unfortunately, I have the same comment Bulldog =

There are much better units out there! If you need some help with one I can get you an audiovox unit that has a great tech support line that will walk you through the install!

 

Hey forget about the key bypass that takes your spare key. You need a PKF1 bypass for your truck. It taps into the PATS module wiring and only takes one key to program. Hook it up...turn the key on... and you're done.
Here's a link to one on ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/Ford-Mazda-Trans...QQcmdZViewItem

Your truck is VERY easy.
Connect your BLACK ground to the T30 Torx bolt that connects your ignition wiring to the column.

IGNITION HARNESS
Snap the gray plastic cover off of the ignition wiring
Make sure you're fuses are out of the units RED main power wiring
Connect your RED 12 volt wires to the YELLOW
Connect your WHITE ignition 1 wire to the BLUE/GREEN
Connect your WHITE/RED ignition 2 wire to the GRAY/YELLOW
Connect your WHITE/BLACK heater wire to the RED/BLACK
Connect your YELLOW/BLACK starter wire to the RED/BLUE

BRAKE AND PARKING LIGHT
Just to the right of the column you will find a black taped harness that leads to a 6 pin Gray plug. This is your trailer brake harness. In this harness you will find your BROWN parking light wire and your LIGHT GREEN brake wire.

Connect your BLUE/BLACK wire to the LIGHT GREEN brake wire (shows 12 volts when pressing the brake)
Connect your BROWN wire to the BROWN parking light wire (shows 12 volts when when you turn the parking lights on)

IF YOUR VEHICLE DOES NOT HAVE FACTORY KEYLESS SKIP THIS STEP AND GO TO NON KEYLESS INSTRUCTIONS
Next you are going to find your lock, unlock, and dome light. If your has factory keyless entry then you will find the PINK/YELLOW lock wire and the PINK/GREEN unlock wire in the middle plug of your factory keyless entry module located high on the firewall just to the right of the emergency brake.

GROUND your RED/BLACK wire on your lock harness.
Connect your BLUE/BLACK wire to the PINK/YELLOW lock wire
Connect your GREEN/BLACK wire to the PINK/GREEN unlock wire

NON KEYLESS INSTRUCTIONS
If your vehicle does not have factory keyless then you will have to wire the system for 5 wire reverse polarity. Just above your brake you will find a large harness. In this harness you will find a large PINK/YELLOW and PINK/GREEN wires.

Connect your RED/BLACK wire to 12 volts
CUT your PINK/YELLOW wire
Connect your BLUE/WHITE wire to the side going to the door.
Connect your BLUE/BLACK wire to the non door side
CUT your PINK/GREEN wire
Connect your GREEN/WHITE wire to the side going to the door
Connect your GREEN/BLACK wire to the non door side

DOMELIGHT
If you plan on adding dome light supervision you will need a relay. Your dome light is a BLACK/BLUE wire that tests 12 volts when you turn the dome light on or open the door. You will find this in the large harness that runs above your brake. I usually latch the door with a screwdriver then while laying under the dash use the dome light turn on switch next to the headlight switch to turn it on and off. When hooking up your relay connect pins #87 and #86 to 12 volts, connect pin #85 to your VIOLET wire, connect pin #30 to your BLACK/YELLOW dome light wire

TACH
If you plan on running the system tachless you should be fine. If you choose to run tach you will have to connect your BLACK/WHITE tach wire.
YOU CAN USE THE UNCOMMON WIRE OF ANY FUEL INJECTOR. 4.2L IT IS DK. BLUE/LT. GREEN AT THE COIL PACK ON TOP OF MOTOR. 4.6L ANY OF THE IGNITION COILS, USE THE WIRE THAT IS NOT RED/GREEN. 5.4L IT IS LT. GREEN/WHITE AT COIL ON PASSENGERS SIDE OF ENGINE

Hood pin is not usually necessary on most systems but you may test this. The hood pin keeps the system from working if the hood is open. So somebody can't start it while you're working on it. Alot of times these hood pins fail from rust or whatever. Totally up to you. Unless it is used for programming. I usually just touch it to ground if it's needed for programming options.

I always test the system using the key in the ignition before advancing to the PATS bypass programming or hookup. This way I know my remote start is the issue if any when it won't start. Depending on what bypass you use you will connect your RED/BLACK FASD wire to the modules activation wire.

 

Does that override constantly, or just under remotre start?

 

Sorry don't quite understand your question?

 

When I install the bypass system on the units I install, the bypass only actually "bypasses" the system during the remote start. As soon as the remote start has activated and the car is running, the bypass ends. So, my question is really, could you have a key without PATS and start the car with that unit, or is it like mine so that its only bypassing when the remote start is powered and active?

 

Sorry to sound stupid Navi but are you referring to the PKF1 bypass module? If you're referring the the PKF1 bypass module it only works with the remote starter. All your bypass module have the active during crank input wire and so does this. It has a Brown wire that you connect to the active while cranking wire on a starter unit. You connect Red to 12 volts, Black to ground, Blue to the RX wire on the PATS module on the key cylinder and Pink to the TX wire on the PATS module on the key cylinder. After it's all hooked up all you do is put your key into the ignition and turn it on. YOU'RE DONE.

Also available is the PKF2 and PKF3 modules. They require two keys to program. The PKF3 is for the newer vehicles with the rounded key tops. The PKF2 is for the Ford Escapes, Focus

 

Thanks for the great info. I will buy the keyless bypass module you recommend.

 

It's just a much better piece than the ring ones. Just follow the instructions and it's a snap.

 

so if bulldog sucks, what is a good brand?

 

I'm not going to go as far as saying bulldog sucks. I would say that there are better units out there. I am totally impressed with the Code Alarm product. That's pretty much all I push. I do however sell other units if a customer just doesn't seem interrested in Code. Units I would recommend would be Autopage, Compustar, or any of the higher end DEI products. (Clifford, Avital, Viper, Sidewinder, Python, Your Valet)

DEI has cleaned up thier systems nicely. The huge rack of relays is replaced by a smaller box with micro relays. I am an ex-Viper alarm technition. It had been a few years since I had installed a DEI product and just a few weeks ago I had a customer bring me a Viper alarm/starter. I used to hate doing DEI units just because of the prewiring time but they have cleaned it up nicely. Thier techs are fairly easy to get ahold of even on a Saturday. West Coast Time.

The Code Alarm units are very nice. Everything is internal. All fuses are in the brain unit under a door and the harnesses pretty much come out of one side of the brain. All relays are inside the brain as well and the fuses allow you to control the output of them. Makes for a very clean and managable installation. Code's techs are also available on a Saturday as well. East Coast Time.

Compustar has nice units but are kind of pricey. They are a little confusing for a novice installer but not too bad. As a hint you can also find units by Scosche that are the exact units as Compustar. Each one claims that they are the manufacturer of the unit and the other is a copy but I don't know the truth. The Scosche units are a little cheaper priced. Thier techs are a little harder to contact and do not offer tech help on saturdays last time I checked.

Autopage has nice units in a competitive price range.

If you're not in the market for a name brand then some other units you might like are Scytek systems. This company hit the ground running. Seems all my competition are starting to pick these units up. They seem to be the same units as all the other B rated companies out there. Same guts inside and they just put a new facing on the remotes and brain units. Scytek has some great prices though.

Keep in mind a system is only as good as it is installed. Most systems that I have to service from other install shops tend to be faulty because of bad grounds. Bad power connections. To many connections to a power source. Antenna's near large power wiring. Using those silly 3M T-taps that come loose all the time. The list goes on. Take your time... make the install clean and correct and you shouldn't have any issues.

 

Many brands are good
DEI codealarm
and one that works great and inexpensive
is the MICRO masstart2001


BullDog is a shortened version of Bull s*** and Dog s*** mixed together

 

I was using some audiovox products, and it was a ring style bypass. It is a piece of crap, it was a real pain and its real finicky.

I just bought three of the avital's at an auction NIB. Those will be my next adventure

 

Just finished my Bulldog 1200E install. Works fine. The Bulldog instructions, on-line info and wiring diagrams were right on the money. That and the advice from KCAutosound and it wasn't too bad. I used a PKF1 PATS bypass instead of the ring-type bypass. Great tip! Hardest part was getting under the dash and finding/splicing all the wires. Tight quarters. I might wire in the tach next. Sometimes it takes a few shots in the morning to start. It's been pretty cold here lately and I'm thinking the tach would be a good idea.