Bingo!

Here's the final scooby on wiring the foglights, guys. The new lights are now switched to a new toggle on the dash and wired independent of any supposed pre-existing factory fog wiring. The only question for 2 weeks was which factory wire to tap into. Here's the diagram from the light kit:



Through several resources and manuals, and some careful observation, here's the run-down on the large connector in back of the headlight switch assembly:



I just spliced the red wire from the kit to the red/yellow wire from the connector and she's good to go.

Oh, and yeah, the lights aren't all that bright, but they do make a difference. I wasn't looking for daylight, just something to cut the fog (yeah, I intend to actually use fog lights to cut through fog - call me a non-conformist).

Hope this helps someone who pulls their headlight switch and says "What the f*%@?"

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Truck: 2000 F-150 XLT 4.6L V8 auto, supercab, oxford white/dark graphite, 3.55 LS, std bed, prem CD, class III towing, sliding rear window. ADDED: SuperChip, Westin step bars, Fumoto oil valve, Ford bugshield, Vent Visors, Penda Hide-A-Hooks, Rhino bed liner, SnugTop HiLiner shell cap, Lee Anderson carpet kit, Kleen Wheel brake dust shields, Yakima TerraGate 2 hitch bike rack, rubber duckie antenna, Ford wheel locks, dark gray Dash Mat, stoopid fuel magnets, Lund wiper cowl, EGR fender flares, Ford cabin air filtration, custom shell curtains, custom shell neons, custom sunglass insert, fog lights. SOON: K&N FIPK, Flowmaster or Ravin exhaust, billet grille (on order!).



[This message has been edited by Christopher (edited 12-18-2000).]

 

Christopher,

Thanks for the diagrams. I am in the process of hooking up new Fog Lights to my SuperCrew and I have most of the wiring done of course the question I had been pondering is how to tap into the Low-beam circuit.

>>I just spliced the red wire from the kit to the red/yellow wire from the connector and she's good to go.

Is the red/yellow wire for the Low or High beam circuit?

Thanks,
Tim

 

Hold on... Lemme check... Both!

When either the low beams or high beams are on, regardless of whether the autolamp system is engaged or the headlight switch is used, I can switch the fog lights on or off.

My guess is, this red/yellow wire is used to provide power to the lights, period. Something else handles the extra input for high beams.

Cheers,

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BASE: 2000 F-150 XLT SC 4.6L V8, 3.55 LS, automatic, oxford white, std bed, prem CD, class III towing, sliding rear window. ADDED: SuperChip, Gen II K&N FIPK, Stull Billet Grille, Westin step bars, Fumoto oil valve, Ford bugshield, Vent Visors, Penda Hide-A-Hooks, Rhino bed liner, SnugTop HiLiner shell, Lee Anderson carpet kit, Kleen Wheel brake dust shields, Yakima TerraGate 2 hitch bike rack, Lund wiper cowl, EGR fender flares, rubber duckie, wheel locks, dash mat, air filtration, fog lights, yada-yada-yada... SOON: Ravin exhaust.

 

How much did this cost to add fog lights?

------------------
Order Code Item Description Dealer Invoice Suggested Retail Price
F150 SUPERCREW CAB 2WD 139" W.B. $24,656.00 $27,860.00

Destination Charge $715.00 $715.00

99L V8, EFI (5.4 Liter) $680.00 $800.00
44U Automatic, 4-Speed w/Overdrive STD STD
508A Series Code • Lariat N/C N/C
18E Cab Steps $213.00 $250.00
535 Trailer Towing Pkg., Class III • Includes 7-wire Trailer harness, class III hitch receiver, H.D. Shock Absorbers & H.D. Electrical/Cooling Pkg. $298.00 $350.00
43M Moon Roof, Power Glass includes Mini Overhead Console $688.00 $810.00
90P Seat Adjuster, Power Driver's Includes Auto Headlamp Control STD STD
90H Seats, Heated • Lariat $207.00 $245.00
XH9 Axle, 3.55 Ratio Limited Slip Rear $243.00 $285.00
63E Bed Extender, Stainless Steel Cage $166.00 $195.00
153 Bracket, Front License Plate (LPO) N/C N/C
60C Entry System, Illuminated Keyless Remote Control STD STD
41H Heater, Engine Block (LPO) • Models w/Trailer Towing Pkg. 535 $30.00 $35.00
954 Paint, Lower Two-Tone Includes Body Side Stripes. $192.00 $225.00
91P Radio, Premium AM/FM Stereo w/Cassette Includes 6-Disc Compact Disc Changer $251.00 $295.00
EH Seat, Leather Surfaced Split Bench • Lariat (Medium Parchment) N/C N/C
T5S (5) P275/60R17 OWL • Lariat STD STD
433 Window, Sliding Rear $107.00 $125.00
AQ/LL Beige, Arizona Metallic/Blue, Deep Wedgewood Metallic N/C N/C
$28,446.00 $32,190.00
Dealer Profit() $500.00
$28,946.00

Order Placed 11/3/2000
Serialized on 11/9/2000
Estimated Build Date Week of 11/27/00
Produced 11/28/2000
Shipped via rail 11/28/2000
Estimated Delivery to Dealer 12/16/2000

 

Normally $50, got 'em on sale for $40 at JC Whitney. Bear in mind these add only incremental light down the road, noticeable only as a wider beam. If you really want to banish the night, you've got to look at PIAAs or Hellas or something like that, but they'll cost you a tad more than $40!

 

Not too much more, though... a set of stainless 150 watt KC Daylighters run about $80 on Carparts.com with the 33% off coupon... less for the black or chrome, more for the titanium, but well worth every penny! PIAAs will generally be more for about the same light quality.

-Joe-

 

GIJoeCam,

Are those KC Daylighters tiny? Like 2" wide so they'll fit in the airdam holes? That's an overriding concern of mine. It would be nice if they're brighter, but they must fit there!

 

aaah, I see your concern... they definately don't fit there.... KC makes their Sport Series which are decent... I had a set on my Ranger... not bad for $25. Never had a problem in 2 years. Visit the KC site at www.kchilites.com and surf around there... they have a coupel of different ones that might work.
Besides, you can always mount the 6" daylighters behind the grille and put a pair of projector beam PIAAs in the airdam...
-Joe-

 

Nice. Yeah, since I installed the billet grille, I've been thinking about putting big lights behind it. I've got other mods to do before then, though!

 

Hey, that's what I'm going to do. I've PIAA 520 driving lights for behind the grill(I have the honeycomb grill) and 1400 fogs for the airdam holes. I'll put them in once it warms up a bit & I have some time. I'll bring the thread back up to the top w/ any interesting info I learned(I'll probably need a bit of help from some of you guys to get them in).

BTW, what's a rough estimate on the amount of time it will take to put them in and get the switch on the dash? Thanks

clancy

------------------
2001 Lariat SC 5.4 4x4 LS ORP Class III 17in wheels Captains seats

Sony ES CDX-M650 Polk EX572a(2 pr.) Dynamats

Westin nerf bar, ARE Z series cap, Yakima rack, Bedrug

Superchip

 

It probably took me 4-5 hours total. A lot of that time was spent scratching my head thinking "What the f???" I could do it in under 2 hours now! I'd say the difficult part was dismantling the dash enough to get at the headlight switch wires... which, upon reflection, you don't need to do (just remove the switch housing, not the other dash pieces). You'll need a straight piece of coat-hanger to fish the wires from your firewall area to the switch.

 

I didn't even need a piece of coat hanger... there is a hole in the firewall right behind and to the left of the brake booster with a great big rubber grommet in it. Perfect spot for running wires through.

Here's a pic... it's a bit fuzzy, but follow the yellow wire....


And a little closer...



it's right below and to the left of that green connector in the second pic.

Mine took me 3 days, but it was a bit more elaborate than the average setup.

-Joe-


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98 Explorer (Lemon Law Case in Progress)

'00 F-150, X-cab, 4x4, Lariat, Off-road, Trailer Tow, Holandia Sunroof, built 11/99 picked up 10/00!Clear Corners, Manik Stainless Steel 1-piece brush guard, Custom CB wiring, Uniden PC76-XLW CB radio with K-40 Magna-Mount antenna (for now), 1 set of 165 watt KC Daylighters (for now... more on the way) Custom switch mounting plate and overhead console.
List of planned mods: Clear tails, color matched trailer hitch with stainless steel ball, torsion bar tweak, bug deflector, spray in liner, and a tonneau of some sort...

93 Probe GT teal, OE rims painted to match, bone stock drivetrain.

 

Nice pics, too bad I don't have some for y'all. I'm gonna have to burn a roll of film so I can show off the mods.

I used that ready-made firewall cutout too. Very thoughtful of Ford to put in in for us. What I used the coat-hanger for was running the necessary wire and taps from the inside firewall up to the dash, where I mounted the light. I ran it up the left side, and it just made things a LOT easier to get to when I used the coat-hanger wire, rather than just trying to fish it through by hand.

I'll get my camera ready and snap some pics, but don't hold your breath! Of course, I don't have a custom switch-panel either, like GIJoeCam does... ;-)

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BASE: 2000 F-150 XLT SC 4.6L V8, 3.55 LS, automatic, oxford white, std bed, prem CD, cl 3 tow, sliding rear window. ADDED: F-150Online sticker proudly displayed! SuperChip, Gen II K&N FIPK, Stull Billet Grille, Westin step bars, Fumoto oil valve, Ford bugshield, Vent Visors, Penda Hide-A-Hooks, Rhino liner, SnugTop HiLiner shell, Lee Anderson carpet kit, Kleen Wheel dust shields, Yakima TerraGate 2 hitch bike rack, Lund wiper cowl, EGR fender flares, fog lights, other goodies. SOON: Hellwig anti-sways, then Ravin exhaust.

 

Clancy, sounds like a cool setup! Where are you getting your PIAA's from and how much are you paying? Id say most of your time on the install will be running wires through the firewall and figuring out the best way to mount the lights, otherwise the PIAA's are a synch to install.

 

I don't have the invoice here. I got them through carparts.com with the coupon, seemed to net out a bit cheaper than the group purchase. Also, I needed them right away to, uh, sit on a shelf in my garage.


clancy

------------------
2001 Lariat SC 5.4 4x4 LS ORP Class III 17in wheels Captains seats

Sony ES CDX-M650 Polk EX572a(2 pr.) Dynamats

Westin nerf bar, ARE Z series cap, Yakima rack, Bedrug

Superchip