Hello OGTerror,

We would appreciate it if you would contact us directly so that we can discuss this situation with you . We have no idea who you are because you did not purchase the kit directly from us, otherwise we would have already been on the phone with you before now. We undertand your frustration and we will work through this with you to get it resolved.

Just FYI, we have 1000's of these Fan kits out there and no one else is having a scenario where there have been multiple failures of both controllers as you describe. That tells us there is something abnormal going on here and we are more than happy to get to the bottom of it. We just need to be able to reach you.

For anyone else who may have concerns, please feel free to contact us at 540-965-7126. Mike will be more than happy to discuss any concerns with any individual personally.

We are always committed to supporting our customers and look forward to working with this gentleman to resolve his issue. We thank everyone for their support of Troyer Perormance.

Mike Troyer

 

I sure will contact you tomorrow as I just read this message and attempted to call but I believe you are gone for the day. But I will call back first thing in the morning tomorrow.

Thanks

Attentively,
Leonardo

 

And???

 

Hey guys I've had my fans a year now since we did the group buy through them and I have only had to replace one relay but I think alot of that had to do with the fact that I live in Florida relatively close to the water and corrosion is knig here anyway Troyer was extremely helpful and it was covered under warranty got it out in a couple of days sent me a new one I just had to send the old one back in a certain time or they would have charged me but I think the set-up is great install instructions were great. I did not hang the fans from my radiator though because I installed a Saleen radiator and it would not work I had to make custom brackets. but the fans have worked as advertised ever since and no problems yet. Not saying OGterror doesnt have a reason to be upset but there are always two sides and they do have a new controller out with the new kit so maybe it did help and no more copper rods for install.

 

Nice to hear some good feed back, I don't know what kit to buy. I hope I can read more good feed back on the new kits Troyer has.

 

John I agree that not everyone has issues but those that do, don't feel the kit is completly solid. I have a semi melted controller and have lucfkily had no issues after the one fan stayed on. I am not driving the truck for a few months but when I get back, I will get with them and see if I can get the service you got. Does anyone have a pic of the supposed "old" and "new" controllers?

 

I completely agree brother and if I were Leo I would be pissed as well I was just offering some positive stuff because I guess I have been lucky and havent had a bad experience with them just wanted to let the guys out there considering purchasing a fan kit that it wasnt all bad

 

Someone earlier in this thread asked if anyone had used a Lincoln Mark VIII fan instead of a dual fan setup. I just completed my installation on my '08 using a single Taurus fan which is nearly identical to the Mark VIII fans the Mustang guys use. I mounted it to the factory shroud and use the new version of the Flex-a-lite variable speed controller. I'm very happy with how the mod turned out.

Here is my write-up with pics: Ford F150 Electric Radiator Fan Installation

 

Man that's pretty cool! Nice work!

 

Talked to Mr. Mike, we are both on the same page now. Instead of fixing blame we will find a solution.

 

I find it interesting that so many folks have issues with melting relays, melted wiring, melted fuse holders, etc.

Barring a part misapplication (too small a relay or switch to handle the intended load), melted electrical components almost always indicate poor electrical connections.

Take the time to "install" the complete system, without making the electrical terminations. Route your wiring exactly as you want it. Be sure that the heavier gauge wiring is mechanically supported within a few inches of it's connection point. Crimps and solder are not designed, nor intended, to support a mechanical connection - that is why you'll see the wiring harness in your truck physically attached to the chassis in so many locations. Also, when mounting your controller, connectors, harness, etc., try to orient them so that if they get wet, gravity will pull the moisture down and out of them.

When everything is the right length, position, etc. break out the crimping tool, flux, solder and heat-shrink tubing.

Crimp the connectors with a quality crimping tool. Auto manufacturers use harnesses that are crimped by machines that are exact and calibrated. There is a reason wiring harnesses have a high cost associated with them - that is also the reason they are so reliable.

Dab a little flux on the connection, touch it momentarily with a proper wattage soldering iron and solder the connector to the cable.

Do this until all of the wires are terminated.

(By the way, if you are installing equipment or wire that isn't brand new and in a very clean state, take the time to carefully clean and prep every connectors, lug, wire, etc. before your install anything. A dirty connection will not solder properly, will have increased resistance and will eventually fail).

Now, if anyone wants my humble opinion, it is crazy to wire any of these controllers directly to the high current load (the fans). Let the controller output toggle a relay to handle the high electrical load. Used in this manner, a controller should never get any warmer than ambient temperature. (Note that this isn't plausible with a variable-speed controller).

Wire everything that draws high current to a quality relay base. Solder and heatshrink-protect the connections, being sure the base is securely mounted in a suitable location. Install a quality relay, put a spare in your glovebox / console and know that if a relay fails, you can quickly swap it out and be on your way.

As far as the low wattage connections to the controller, buy an automotive-grade, multi-pin connector. Make a harness to connect your chassis-mounted wiring to the controller. One side of the connector harness should be soldered to the controller, the other to the vehicle harness you have created. Properly heatshrink and support the connections to both halves of the connector.

Once all of this is done properly, you have a system that is very similar to an OEM application and it should perform like one too. More than likely, you will never need that spare relay mentioned above.

I know this sounds long and drawn-out, but the results speak for themselves: I have a Flex-A-Lite 270 kit that was installed in my 2001 SuperCrew. After 60,000+ miles in that truck, I moved the kit to my 2004 Lightning.

115,000+ miles later, I have yet to replace a controller or been stranded because of an electrical issue.

Now, the squirrel under the hood that broke one of the fans, that's another story...

 

now you've gone and done it... i'm going to bring in my squirrel story.

in the winter of '03, i couldn't get my 99 mercury gran marquis up the steep hill out of a parking lot, so it stayed parked for two weeks during a blizzard. a local squirrel thought that was a good time to tear out half my air cleaner and built a nest in the filter housing.

when the weather finally cleared, i tried to start the car. it sucked in the squirrel, the nest, and assorted shredded air filter and would go no further. one tow trip to the dealer later and i heard the whole sad story.

here's the neat thing: they were pulling squirrel out all the way to the intake valves. once they got the mess cleaned up, and put in a new air filter, the car started up and ran just fine.

love that merc! still going strong today!

 

Now that sir is one heck of a story topper. Awesome stuff, really cool it didn't f up your engine.

 

Fill us in on the solution.
I'm wanting to get e-fans, but I want to be sure the problems are solved before I drop the cash.

 

I think you guy are insane spending that kind of money on e- fans. Make your own for 1/3 the cost and better.