Troyer Efan install problems

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  #46  
Old 11-12-2010 | 12:53 PM
MGDfan's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Redeye
Thanks for reply MGD!

Excuse my ignorance, but I think I understand what you're saying to mean that whatever settings I have for one fan (like fan on temp) will be the same for both and that when one is on the other will be on regardless. In other words no high and low speed fan settings as I have now with the Troyer kit and when I turn on the AC it will trigger both fans. Seems like a bit of overkill but I guess extra cooling won't hurt especially in Southwest summers.

I suppose if I want them to come on separately I would need two controllers just like I have now, but that's a bit cost prohibitive.....at least to me
Yep. The advantage is, the fans will only run as fast (and of a duration) as required to control the temps according to the settings you initially adjust the contoller to. It is a continuously variable activity.

There is no need for 2 redundant controllers (unless you wish there to be fer yer own satisfaction). The Controller is very robust and reliable if installed correctly as outlined by Brian.

MGD
 
  #47  
Old 11-12-2010 | 03:05 PM
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Thanks MGD! Think I will probably go in this direction.
 
  #48  
Old 11-12-2010 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Redeye
Thanks for reply MGD!

Excuse my ignorance, but I think I understand what you're saying to mean that whatever settings I have for one fan (like fan on temp) will be the same for both and that when one is on the other will be on regardless. In other words no high and low speed fan settings as I have now with the Troyer kit and when I turn on the AC it will trigger both fans. Seems like a bit of overkill but I guess extra cooling won't hurt especially in Southwest summers.

I suppose if I want them to come on separately I would need two controllers just like I have now, but that's a bit cost prohibitive.....at least to me
This is correct, but remember the fans will only 'soft start' as needed and only run at a variable rate determined by the temp pick-up and the controller. When you turn the AC on the fans will run at 50% power at the minimum..you need this to draw air across the AC condenser regardless of radiator temp.
 
  #49  
Old 11-14-2010 | 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by sam1947
This is correct, but remember the fans will only 'soft start' as needed and only run at a variable rate determined by the temp pick-up and the controller. When you turn the AC on the fans will run at 50% power at the minimum..you need this to draw air across the AC condenser regardless of radiator temp.
Thanks Sam! Quick question for you (or anyone else for that matter)......where did you mount the sensor on the rad, bottom or side and where did you mount the DC controller in the engine compartment? In fact a pic would be outstanding! Also while I'm thinking of it, what temp setting did you decide on? Thanks!
 

Last edited by Redeye; 11-16-2010 at 04:18 PM. Reason: omission
  #50  
Old 11-17-2010 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Redeye
Thanks Sam! Quick question for you (or anyone else for that matter)......where did you mount the sensor on the rad, bottom or side and where did you mount the DC controller in the engine compartment? In fact a pic would be outstanding! Also while I'm thinking of it, what temp setting did you decide on? Thanks!
Here ya go, Redeye ( BTW - all of this stuff is/was just a search away, lol):

Mounting example:



Note that DCC recommends mounting to a location that is as cool as possible, and on a metal backplane if also possible

And here are some posts that reveal the temp settings and location of the probe - and the reasoning behind it:

Originally Posted by baskin
...Without the fan or the truck moving, the coolant temperature is typically within a few degrees from the top to the bottom of the radiator since there is essentially nothing to remove the heat. Once everything stabilizes, meaning that the thermostat is open and there is enough airflow to keep the temperature at a stable point, the heat rise through the engine is typically about 12 degrees. There is a delay in temperature from the top to the bottom of the radiator of about 30 seconds, but that’s more than compensated for by the 12 degree temperature offset in the controller.

Contrary to popular belief, the time that it takes a relay set up to cycle off has very little to do with the temperature or the controller. As an example, when your truck reaches 200 degrees in the dead of winter, the thermostat will be fully open, so very little water cycles back through the water pump via the bypass hose. When the fan then turns on, the coolant out of the radiator might be as low as 70 degrees F. The thermostat will remain open until that cold water reaches the top of the engine, and when that water arrives the thermostat will close and the fan will turn off. The cycle then repeats once the engine is again hot enough to open the thermostat.

Having said that, sensing the temperature out of the radiator with a controller that isn’t able to regulate the engine inlet temperature will cause the fans to cycle on and off continuously, so the best place to sense it is determined by how it’s controlled.
Originally Posted by baskin
That's a long time, it could be that you have it set far lower than the thermostat temperature, if it takes quite a few turns to change the temperature, that's the case. You can also get it to shut off immediately using the ignition input wire.

As far as it staying on while you're driving, that's another advantage of mounting the senor at the radiator outlet, once there's enough cooling from the truck moving, it'll shut off even if you have it at or below the thermostat temperature.
Originally Posted by Irish FX4
Well i finally got the time to install my efans. All i can say is wow! What a difference. You can tell the mechanical fan is gone as soon as you crank the engine. You can feel the engine has more power now that weight is gone. I weighed my fan on my 04 FX4 and it was about 8 -9 lbs.

The DC controller works like a dream. Kicks the fans on at about 196F and runs no more than about 30 -40 seconds.

Now all i have to do is wire up the ignition wire and the AC wire! Hmmmm now to look for a good spot to pick up power when the ignition is on.
Any ideas guys?
As for the AC i guess i can tap into the power wire that plugs into the compressor!
Very happy!
Anybody sitting on the fence, do it you wont regret it. Just don't go cheap on your parts.
Do yourself a favor and get the DC controller. Its sweet!

Thanks Baskin!
Redeye - you need to go to the DCC site and read & print off the install manuals and other related info for yer reference. This includes approx how many turns of the pot equates to a given change in temp setpoint, probe location, mounting location preference, etc. It's all there , in detail. http://www.dccontrol.com/


MGD
 

Last edited by MGDfan; 11-17-2010 at 12:50 PM.
  #51  
Old 11-17-2010 | 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by MGDfan
Here ya go, Redeye ( BTW - all of this stuff is/was just a search away, lol):


Redeye - you need to go to the DCC site and read & print off the install manuals and other related info for yer reference. This includes approx how many turns of the pot equates to a given change in temp setpoint, probe location, mounting location preference, etc. It's all there , in detail. http://www.dccontrol.com/


MGD
Many thanks MGD In all honesty I did try a search first but I guess my search parameters were wrong because I didn't find any of the threads you listed.

Anyway, that pretty much answers my questions and although I had been to DC's website and read their install instructions, it's much more of a warm fuzzy for me when I see what actual users have done. I'm looking forward to getting the controller set up. Again, I truly appreciate your efforts

Redeye
 



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