Can someone post the instructions on how to remove the covers from the power mirrors on the F-150's without signals?

I want to trade my chrome ones for white ones and when I finally found someone, I couldn't get the covers off with ease and since he had a Navi, he didn't think it was a fair trade since he had the signals in the glass.


Thanks in advance!

 

There are 4 plastic tabs on the glamor cap ( cover ).

If you move the mirror all the way to the lower left ( all the way left and down ) , you will see a tab and slot at about the 1:00 position ( maybe 12:30 ). release that tab with a long skinny screw driver.

Then repeat the move the mirror for the one at the 11:30 position, the 6:30 position and 5:30 positions. Total of 4, 2 top and 2 bottom.

The Glamor cap comes off the mirror head itself, so the glamor cap is the only thing being switched, not the entire mirror head.

BTW : a glamor cap from a signal mirror ( the one that is on the edge of the mirror head ) will not fit on one without a signal on the edge. Different glamor caps.

 

Thanks for the info.

The caps are the same. This Navi had the led signal "in" the glass.

You guys are awesome

Thanks again SSCULLY!!!

 

I just replaced a mirror on my 2001 and had to deal with removal of the skullcap. It was not that easy to do with only a verbal description as a guide. But now that I have worked it out, I think I can explain it better by using some pictures.

Here is the inside view of the cap, showing the tabs. Note their location and orientation:


Now, here is a view inside the mirror assembly - with the mirror frame removed so that you can see it in detail. The red lines show the location and orientation of the tab clips. The arrows show to direction to move the tabs to unclip them. The Yellow spot shows where to drill a hole through the internal housing so that you can access the inner-lower tab.


I was able to pop the mirror part out of my replacement assembly, but the original mirror had a different internal design, which could not simply pop out. You should be able to perform the steps I describe here without removing your mirror. It will just be a little harder to work around it.

Rotate the mirror as needed to make room to access the tabs (simply push on the mirror to change its position within the frame).

You might need a small piece of metal, with some small bends, to reach around the mirror. The tabs don't have to move far, and it takes very little pressure - a slight bend towards the outside and the clip will release them. Keep a little pressure on each released corner so that they don't snap back in while you are working on the next one.

The hardest part is that the inner assembly housing completely covers the innermost lower tab clip. You can't see where it is or what direction it is facing. This is what stalled me for a few hours, until I finally took a chance and yanked on the mirror and pulled it out of the assembly.

Use a 3/8 to 1/2 drill bit to make a hole in that inner housing, as illustrated by the yellow spot in the image. You should be able to get between the mirror and the outer housing if you angle the mirror out as far as it will go.

Using a small screwdriver or piece of old coathanger wire you can then push that tab to disengage it.

I hope others can benefit from this experience.

Incidentally, I had planned to use the body-matched cap from the original damaged mirror to replace the flat black cap that was on the new one, but the hack repair job done by the truck's previous owner damaged the tabs on the cap so that it was useless. No matter. To do a decent paint job on the cap required it to be removed anyway, so my effort wasn't wasted.

My amature paint procedure:
1) clean and scuff the flat-finish plastic cap using some TSP and a Scotch-brite abrasive pad.
2) spray on a coat of non-metal primer. I think it is also called adhesion promoter. I think it is basically a glue.
3) a coat of regular primer ( I used a little can of duplicolor "red" primer which looks sort of brown.
4) three coats from a little can of duplicolor that is supposed to match my Ford #E4 red.
5) two coats of clear-coat, also duplicolor

All coats were 10-15 minutes apart to stay within the recoat window.

Result: finish is smooth - I'll maybe give it a buff when it is hardened, color is almost exact - If it was a patch right on the truck it would be noticeable, but on the mirror a few inches from the body it does look exact. It seems to have bonded very well - time will tell

 

This is great. But I am trying to remove mine a 2007 F150. The chrome cap is split. How do you remove one a 2007?