Changing the rear in my truck, AGAIN
#1
02-22-2003, 11:55 PM
Changing the rear in my truck, AGAIN
Well after a lot of consideration I am again going to rebuild my 8.8 diff. I now have 4.30 gears and a Powertrax No-Slip locking rear. I have decided for my needs, I would be much happier with a limited slip carrier and 4.10 gears.
It’s not that what I have is not a good set-up, just not right for me. I am looking for quiet comfortable operation with the extra traction needed with a two-wheel drive vehicle and 4-season weather.
The 4.30 gears and no slip would be ideal for someone who regularly uses their truck off road on rocks, sand or mud and has big (34 to 36 inch) tires. In this recent record snowfall we had, mine was the only 2wd truck out there. In fact I was doing better with just performance tires then most Fwd vehicles and some 4wd trucks.
The 4.30 gears coupled with 30-inch tires are great for performance but have the engine running a little higher then I want at very fast highway speeds. The Powertrax can at times be jerky when turning from a stop, made worse by the smaller tires and 4.30 gears. This has come to annoy me. I also have a slight gear noise that, I am told by rear end installers and Ford mechanics, is normal for taller gears. For some reason it seems to bother me. It is only audible (and I mean slightly) between 40 and 50MPH but that is my commuting speed so I am treated to this sound for about an hour and 20 mins daily.
What I am looking for is on-road performance with 30-inch tires and maximum traction without a noticeable change in road manors. To that end I have decided to install an Eaton limited-slip carrier and Ford Racing 4.10 gears. I chose the Eaton because the carbon fiber clutches should last a very long time in my truck. The performance is said to be seamlessly smooth while on-road. The Ford Racing gears have been reported as very quiet by a lot of F-150 on-liners and should keep my rpm’s in the sweet spot.
I have collected the parts and necessary tools and am going to do this gear change myself. I have spent the last couple of months preparing (and educating) myself so I can do the install. Also, I want to check the pattern of the 4.30’s before I take them out. I will also inspect them so I can be sure they are in good shape since I plan to sell them later. I know some serious off-roader will be happy to save some money and take the gears and Powertrax off my hands.
I also bought a Trick-Flow diff cover. It is suppose to strengthen the 8.8 rear and add support to the carrier bearing caps. I don’t know if it will really make a difference but it sure LOOKS GOOD.
I got the batteries for my digital camera charged up and will take photos in case others are interested. I will also chronicle the install in my usual LENGTHY way.
WISH ME LUCK
It’s not that what I have is not a good set-up, just not right for me. I am looking for quiet comfortable operation with the extra traction needed with a two-wheel drive vehicle and 4-season weather.
The 4.30 gears and no slip would be ideal for someone who regularly uses their truck off road on rocks, sand or mud and has big (34 to 36 inch) tires. In this recent record snowfall we had, mine was the only 2wd truck out there. In fact I was doing better with just performance tires then most Fwd vehicles and some 4wd trucks.
The 4.30 gears coupled with 30-inch tires are great for performance but have the engine running a little higher then I want at very fast highway speeds. The Powertrax can at times be jerky when turning from a stop, made worse by the smaller tires and 4.30 gears. This has come to annoy me. I also have a slight gear noise that, I am told by rear end installers and Ford mechanics, is normal for taller gears. For some reason it seems to bother me. It is only audible (and I mean slightly) between 40 and 50MPH but that is my commuting speed so I am treated to this sound for about an hour and 20 mins daily.
What I am looking for is on-road performance with 30-inch tires and maximum traction without a noticeable change in road manors. To that end I have decided to install an Eaton limited-slip carrier and Ford Racing 4.10 gears. I chose the Eaton because the carbon fiber clutches should last a very long time in my truck. The performance is said to be seamlessly smooth while on-road. The Ford Racing gears have been reported as very quiet by a lot of F-150 on-liners and should keep my rpm’s in the sweet spot.
I have collected the parts and necessary tools and am going to do this gear change myself. I have spent the last couple of months preparing (and educating) myself so I can do the install. Also, I want to check the pattern of the 4.30’s before I take them out. I will also inspect them so I can be sure they are in good shape since I plan to sell them later. I know some serious off-roader will be happy to save some money and take the gears and Powertrax off my hands.
I also bought a Trick-Flow diff cover. It is suppose to strengthen the 8.8 rear and add support to the carrier bearing caps. I don’t know if it will really make a difference but it sure LOOKS GOOD.
I got the batteries for my digital camera charged up and will take photos in case others are interested. I will also chronicle the install in my usual LENGTHY way.
WISH ME LUCK
Last edited by WLF; 02-23-2003 at 12:01 AM.
#2
02-23-2003, 08:01 PM
Hey WLF, I know you have all your parts together but check this out.
Good luck with your 4.10 setup, it sounds sweet. I cant find anyone locally to balance my aluminum driveshaft over 3,500 RPMs so I might be shipping it out to Mark Williams, they've got a machine that balances up to 10,000 RPMs.
Good luck and thanks for all your help in the past.
Good luck with your 4.10 setup, it sounds sweet. I cant find anyone locally to balance my aluminum driveshaft over 3,500 RPMs so I might be shipping it out to Mark Williams, they've got a machine that balances up to 10,000 RPMs.
Good luck and thanks for all your help in the past.
#4
02-24-2003, 03:20 PM
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WLF, I've been curious how you keep your truck looking like what it is now, flawless body, shiny, and still looks like brand new, even better.
Seriously though, do you have any special techniques you use or what do you do to keep your truck looking like that!??!? I know I'm prolly being a little nosy, but forgive me, Tks man
91
#5
02-24-2003, 03:57 PM
I have tried many products but I always keep a good coat of wax on it. After these 6 going on 7 years, if you look close, you will see flaws. I think it also helps because I have a garage and the truck goes in every night.
Paint needs wax to stay looking good. As far as I am concerned, Carnauba wax is the best.
P.S. when I go to the local stores, I also park as far away as needed to keep the door bangers away from the truck.
Paint needs wax to stay looking good. As far as I am concerned, Carnauba wax is the best.
P.S. when I go to the local stores, I also park as far away as needed to keep the door bangers away from the truck.
Last edited by WLF; 02-24-2003 at 03:59 PM.
#6
02-28-2003, 12:12 PM
The Eaton unit and gears are in. 
Every thing went well but I'll tell you this is a tuff install off jackstands by yourself.
The gears are quiet and the Eaton is seamless. It snowed again last nite so got to check out the LS and it works fine. Much better then the factory unit. I'm too tired for a full report on install today. I'll do that in the near future.
Every thing went well but I'll tell you this is a tuff install off jackstands by yourself. The gears are quiet and the Eaton is seamless. It snowed again last nite so got to check out the LS and it works fine. Much better then the factory unit. I'm too tired for a full report on install today. I'll do that in the near future.
#7
03-08-2003, 10:00 PM
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WLF
I remember when you were first contemplating the Powertrax. I'm glad there is someone like you to give such good feedback and info.
You know, I haven't checked the 2004 detail (if it's even listed), but if the new 04 has 4-channel 4 wheel ABS instead of the 3-channel we have on our 97 and up trucks, then a Torsen-Gleason would work perfectly. After all, many Mustangs have Torsens in them.
What made you choose Eaton over Auburn?
I remember when you were first contemplating the Powertrax. I'm glad there is someone like you to give such good feedback and info.
You know, I haven't checked the 2004 detail (if it's even listed), but if the new 04 has 4-channel 4 wheel ABS instead of the 3-channel we have on our 97 and up trucks, then a Torsen-Gleason would work perfectly. After all, many Mustangs have Torsens in them.
What made you choose Eaton over Auburn?
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#8
03-09-2003, 01:19 AM
cpadpl,
Having chosen the wrong products for my needs left me with a better understanding of what I really wanted. I also liked the Detroit TrueTracs (current producer of Gleason Torsenâ type rears only stronger) but could not find anyone who had used them over time. The tech guy at http://www.ring-pinion.com/home.shtml was running one to test in his Ford car but did not have it in long enough to recommend. Everyone I called said the Eaton unit was superior. Check out the following clips from Randy's ring and pinion:
_______________________________________________
-The latest Eaton Posi Limited Slips now come with race-bred pyrolytic carbon fiber clutches that are more durable than their steel counterparts. These virtually indestructible clutches do not chatter and have a high tolerance for abuse such as tall tires and constant off-road use.
-New units also use stronger spider gears produced with Net Form Forging technology. These stronger spider gears look very different compared to standard cut gears. They are made from 8620 steel, and are carbonized to increase strength and durability. Net Form Forged gears perform at least 20% better than standard cut gears in both impact testing, and testing for fatigue under heavy loading.
-Auburn Gear PRO (AG)
Cone style & not rebuildable. Designed with more lockup force than regular Auburn Gear limited slips. Will provide better high performance traction than regular Auburn Gear, but still wears out under extreme off-road use and heavy wheel spin. This design tends to chatter a lot and is not recommended if the customer is looking for a smooth unit.
-Eaton (EAT)
Clutch type, similar to Trac-Lok in design, yet far stronger like a Power-Lok, and, more aggressive and better lock-up similar to the Power-Lok design. These units came as an original equipment option in 65-72 12T (12 bolt GM truck), 12P (12 bolt GM passenger), 8.2" GM pass, 63-79 Cast Iron Corvettes. The original OEM 12T case was very weak, but the new design replacement from Eaton is very strong. 4 preload springs and 2 steel preload spring plates. Latest design uses HD nodular iron case, forged side and pinion gears, no-chatter, race-bred, carbon fiber clutches for extreme strength and longevity. Old design, all steel clutches which are still available in 18 or 22 clutch designs for those who need more lock-up and are not bothered by clutch chatter. For even more lockup customization, there are also 4 levels of spring pressure available (3 from Eaton and a fourth from GM) that can be used to vary the clutch preload from 200 lbs. to 800 lbs. Originally used in mid sixties GM muscle cars and trucks. This unit is now available for Ford applications and soon will be available for Dana Spicer, AMC, and Chrysler applications. They have a high tolerance for abuse in high horsepower vehicles. Recommended for everyday driving and severe off-road use (factory GM )
__________________________________________________ __
Well after just a week or so I really think I made the right choices this time. The Eaton unit is smooth and never any chatter. The Ford racing gears are quiet and I still have good performance from them.
I'm still working on my write-up of the install. Now that I have done it I must say I don't see why this costs so much to have done. I warn you though, only try this after you really understand what pinion depth, bearing preload, backlash and gear pattern are. I am no professional by far, but was able to do a pritty good self install after preparing myself.
Good luck and keep trucking...
Having chosen the wrong products for my needs left me with a better understanding of what I really wanted. I also liked the Detroit TrueTracs (current producer of Gleason Torsenâ type rears only stronger) but could not find anyone who had used them over time. The tech guy at http://www.ring-pinion.com/home.shtml was running one to test in his Ford car but did not have it in long enough to recommend. Everyone I called said the Eaton unit was superior. Check out the following clips from Randy's ring and pinion:
_______________________________________________
-The latest Eaton Posi Limited Slips now come with race-bred pyrolytic carbon fiber clutches that are more durable than their steel counterparts. These virtually indestructible clutches do not chatter and have a high tolerance for abuse such as tall tires and constant off-road use.
-New units also use stronger spider gears produced with Net Form Forging technology. These stronger spider gears look very different compared to standard cut gears. They are made from 8620 steel, and are carbonized to increase strength and durability. Net Form Forged gears perform at least 20% better than standard cut gears in both impact testing, and testing for fatigue under heavy loading.
-Auburn Gear PRO (AG)
Cone style & not rebuildable. Designed with more lockup force than regular Auburn Gear limited slips. Will provide better high performance traction than regular Auburn Gear, but still wears out under extreme off-road use and heavy wheel spin. This design tends to chatter a lot and is not recommended if the customer is looking for a smooth unit.
-Eaton (EAT)
Clutch type, similar to Trac-Lok in design, yet far stronger like a Power-Lok, and, more aggressive and better lock-up similar to the Power-Lok design. These units came as an original equipment option in 65-72 12T (12 bolt GM truck), 12P (12 bolt GM passenger), 8.2" GM pass, 63-79 Cast Iron Corvettes. The original OEM 12T case was very weak, but the new design replacement from Eaton is very strong. 4 preload springs and 2 steel preload spring plates. Latest design uses HD nodular iron case, forged side and pinion gears, no-chatter, race-bred, carbon fiber clutches for extreme strength and longevity. Old design, all steel clutches which are still available in 18 or 22 clutch designs for those who need more lock-up and are not bothered by clutch chatter. For even more lockup customization, there are also 4 levels of spring pressure available (3 from Eaton and a fourth from GM) that can be used to vary the clutch preload from 200 lbs. to 800 lbs. Originally used in mid sixties GM muscle cars and trucks. This unit is now available for Ford applications and soon will be available for Dana Spicer, AMC, and Chrysler applications. They have a high tolerance for abuse in high horsepower vehicles. Recommended for everyday driving and severe off-road use (factory GM )
__________________________________________________ __
Well after just a week or so I really think I made the right choices this time. The Eaton unit is smooth and never any chatter. The Ford racing gears are quiet and I still have good performance from them.
I'm still working on my write-up of the install. Now that I have done it I must say I don't see why this costs so much to have done. I warn you though, only try this after you really understand what pinion depth, bearing preload, backlash and gear pattern are. I am no professional by far, but was able to do a pritty good self install after preparing myself.
Good luck and keep trucking...