4WD not working?
#16
03-18-2003, 12:43 PM
Well, at least we solved someone's problem... Glad I could help!
It sounds like they must have just gotten sticky... could be from lack of use, heat and humidity, etc. Exercising them periodically helps too. Also, don;t forget about low range... the shifter motor on the transfer case needs to rotate all the way over once in a while too!
Aycardus, have you tried jacking the front end up and manually turning the wheel to see if the axle disconnect engages? If not, do like PG633 did: Jack the front end up, start the engine (In park, of course) and engage the 4wd. Watch to see that the CAD visually moves. THen, slowly turn one of the front wheels. At some point, you should hear the gear engage and the other wheel should begin to turn in the opposite direction. This will tell you that you have a positive lock between the two sides. If that does not happen, look to make sure that the axle shaft flange is turning with the inner CV joint (again, to rule out any chance of a busted CV joint). Try to hold the axle shaft flange to make sure the joint didn;t pop internally and the boot isn't slipping around the shaft (I've seen it happen on a custom IRS I helped build).
Keep the faith... we'll get to the bottom of this one yet.
-Joe
It sounds like they must have just gotten sticky... could be from lack of use, heat and humidity, etc. Exercising them periodically helps too. Also, don;t forget about low range... the shifter motor on the transfer case needs to rotate all the way over once in a while too!
Aycardus, have you tried jacking the front end up and manually turning the wheel to see if the axle disconnect engages? If not, do like PG633 did: Jack the front end up, start the engine (In park, of course) and engage the 4wd. Watch to see that the CAD visually moves. THen, slowly turn one of the front wheels. At some point, you should hear the gear engage and the other wheel should begin to turn in the opposite direction. This will tell you that you have a positive lock between the two sides. If that does not happen, look to make sure that the axle shaft flange is turning with the inner CV joint (again, to rule out any chance of a busted CV joint). Try to hold the axle shaft flange to make sure the joint didn;t pop internally and the boot isn't slipping around the shaft (I've seen it happen on a custom IRS I helped build).
Keep the faith... we'll get to the bottom of this one yet.
-Joe
#17
04-10-2003, 07:45 PM
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I'm having the exact opposite problem now on my 99 F-250 SD... the front hubs don't disengage.
The only thing holding them in seems to be a ring that you compress to remove. Does anyone know if I can simply run without the auto-locking hubs until I can get a new pair or trace the vacuum lines? I'm trailering about 300 miles this weekend, and it's killing my gas mileage. The V-10 doesn't pass many gas stations to begin with, this is just making it worse.
The only thing holding them in seems to be a ring that you compress to remove. Does anyone know if I can simply run without the auto-locking hubs until I can get a new pair or trace the vacuum lines? I'm trailering about 300 miles this weekend, and it's killing my gas mileage. The V-10 doesn't pass many gas stations to begin with, this is just making it worse.